Grey paint shade



Got my new ab now i gotta do some painting... I know as a noob, I'm going to dark to fast... Should I use a light grey to start and add black as i go, or, should i make a dark grey and practice lighter use of it?
It's a case of what ever rocks your boat Rick, but I would recommend as I now do and put reducer into your cup first and gradually add the tiniest drops of paint until you get to a rate of building up that suits you, assuming you are test driving your new toy, just play around, as soon as you hit the sweet spot you will know, everyone is unique and have their own little preferences and much of this is based on or related to what they paint and what they paint on.
I think I will go light.. tend to get a super splodge now n then. makes a bloody mess!
I think I will go light.. tend to get a super splodge now n then. makes a bloody mess!

That's not problem, but you are looking to get yourself into a situation where can paint, blend and shade without giving to much thought to it, this only happens with practice, which in turn will also help you control the heavy hand problem, when you can do all of that with one colour then colour shifting doesn't become an issue, changing from light grey through to black can certainly cause you a shift problem since all the shades in between can contain different levels of blue in the mix.

It's always handy to study the behaviour of paints and colours during practice, since if it happens during a serious painting it can be soul destroying especially if an unwanted shift or effect happens close to the end.
I agree with all the above.
I do recommend using lightest possible shade first, adding blends and shadows to create effect.
When you get tottally blanked out doing dots an daggers, try this little excercise.
Grab a Math-0-mat and simply do some different sized globes on a blank peice of paper.
Start out really light, remembering to leave some of the area blank.
This can be anywhere you prefer.
Go over them, adding colour where you like, and give each one a different light source.
You'll have an interesting outcome, I guarantee, and it'll teach you about perspective, how light reacts on each one's surface and how you change it to create a different effect with each one.
Good one for a change.
I would use transparent base instead of reducer to mix transparent colours. Add more colour when you can not reach the level with just layering.
Depends on the picture I want to paint, but some times I do the darkest parts first, then the lightest part. Then I have the two ends of the spectrum I am working within and can build up my tones between them knowing what my limits are at each end of the scale. But other times I just go from light to dark. Unless I am doing something with eyes, then that all goes out of the window, and I just do they eyes first, as to me they are the heart of the pic, and if I'm not happy with them i won't be happy with the whole thing. I guess it's just what you most feel comfortable doing :)
i still new to this but if I'm doing a portrait i work on a black background, start with a dark grey and work my up to white in 4 or 5 steps'ish. Remember to keep small amount of each color change handy in case you need to cover up or darken again.
i agree the eyes can make or break a picture, and need to be spot on to give the finished look. (or do what i just did and do portrait of someone wearing shades :cool: )
As above, depends what your doing..If still on dots and lines, doesn't really matter about reduction, the idea is more I think to learn how to control your gun at any reduction as ultimately we reduce to suit need and reduction need constantly changes..If heading into a painting by all means start with light grey, that is a good idea as it can only go so dark and when you add a mid grey to that it will make the previous layer appear lighter..Don't get tempted into adding a drop here and drop there, it doesn't work well unless ya really know what your doing.try 3 basic greys, light medium and dark and maybe some trans black to finish off as mentioned, mix them up on the side in spare containers..As a general rule though it isnt a good idea to mix paint to reducer, it really should be done the other way around, otherwise you do run the risk of overusing paint or reducer..15-1, 20-1 and higher reduction mixes are really for those who know what they are doing, as a beginner try to aim for 5-1 or maybe 10-1 at the most otherwise you may indeed overpaint it and have a lot of overspray issues or double lines..Best of luck