[SOLVED] H&S Infinity..would like to throw out of the window....

I had a similar problem with a devilbiss dagr, tried different paints, and new nozzles and needles, and never really solved the problem. The nozzle would clog quickly, or paint would be all or nothing. Turned out the nozzle wasn't seating in the body of the brush properly, only solution was another brush, which I was sent by sm designs where I bought it. Devilbiss wouldn't replace it until they had it sent to the US and tested it, and couldn't say how long it would take. Simon at SM designs said he could see the problem was in the manufacturing and sent out another brush. He's a good egg. However, I found the dagr to be hard work, constantly in need of attention and replaciment parts, so I gave up and got an Iwata HP-CS, couldn't be happier with it, and wish I'd changed before.
 
@Squishy... i think also to give it up with H&S, they dont care about there costumers until they got you money.
I will too change to iwata. I gues it is the only way for me to get back to airbrush!
 
If you're going to buy another brush to get painting again, then yeah I would recommend Iwata for sure. Just a couple of pointers, beware fakes on ebay, and also shop around, I got mine £50 cheaper than the first few places I looked. If you get the Iwata and are happy with it, then it may still be worth sending back the H&S, if it takes a long time, it won't be as important if you have another brush, and if it is a manufacturing problem and they replace it, well, it doesn't hurt to have more than one brush. Even if you don't want it you could sell it on to help get back some of the money for the Iwata.
 
Sorry Ace Kustoms.

No way for H&S Infinity for me anymore. Luckily i got rid of it today. Yeah....fantastic.
 
Reset, who did you buy your Infinity from? I'm surprised the supplier didn't help you get it straightened out, like Squishy's Dagr. It seems to be quite clear that you simply got one with a manufacturing error. I've never seen anything like that from H&S...it should have been easily replaced.

P.S. I wish I would have known you were getting rid of it, I would have gladly bought it from you.:smile-new: Good luck with your new set up, I hope it goes smoother.
 
Hello everybody!

I got an H&S Infinity a week ago, and have had some troubles with it since then. Something quite predictable as it's my first below .3 tip and they imply some serious considerations regarding tip-dry and thinning and stuff.

Funny thing, I had a problem similar to reset, my paint was getting "milkshaky", but no visible bubbles. Long story short, I cleaned the seating of the nozzle and the body of the AB, and problem solved!. I noticed the problem was air leakage with water, at first I thought that something in the AB (perhaps the chrome) was making funny things with my paint, that would coagulate and clog. None of it, it was dirt in the seating that made micro bubbles that eventually made milkshake out of the wicked detail black. The thing is that I screwed really hard (with my hands, no tools involved) the needle cap when first saw the micro bubbles in the water, but that didn't help!, it was the cleaning. This is a sensible brush, needs constant cleaning, and providing that and being gentle with it, gets amazing detail.
 
Hello everybody!

I got an H&S Infinity a week ago, and have had some troubles with it since then. Something quite predictable as it's my first below .3 tip and they imply some serious considerations regarding tip-dry and thinning and stuff.

Funny thing, I had a problem similar to reset, my paint was getting "milkshaky", but no visible bubbles. Long story short, I cleaned the seating of the nozzle and the body of the AB, and problem solved!. I noticed the problem was air leakage with water, at first I thought that something in the AB (perhaps the chrome) was making funny things with my paint, that would coagulate and clog. None of it, it was dirt in the seating that made micro bubbles that eventually made milkshake out of the wicked detail black. The thing is that I screwed really hard (with my hands, no tools involved) the needle cap when first saw the micro bubbles in the water, but that didn't help!, it was the cleaning. This is a sensible brush, needs constant cleaning, and providing that and being gentle with it, gets amazing detail.

Hi mainakae,
I dont have the Infinity, but i have the Evolution Silverline with the 0.15mm setup. I had the same problem one time, that air came back into the cup and my paint was shaken up and went thick.
Same solution as you had, cleaned the back of my nozzle so it was sitting correctly again in the body and the air leak was gone. ALso even a bit of tip dry will already clock the 0.15mm nozzle and
then you have the same effect as if you want to backflush, everything goes back into the cup instead of going out of the nozzle. Every airbrsuh that has a nozzle smaller then 0.25 mm is pretty sensible
like you said, and with a 0.15mm its really important to have a clean airbrush so it all works out.
 
Hi mainakae,
I dont have the Infinity, but i have the Evolution Silverline with the 0.15mm setup. I had the same problem one time, that air came back into the cup and my paint was shaken up and went thick.
Same solution as you had, cleaned the back of my nozzle so it was sitting correctly again in the body and the air leak was gone. ALso even a bit of tip dry will already clock the 0.15mm nozzle and
then you have the same effect as if you want to backflush, everything goes back into the cup instead of going out of the nozzle. Every airbrsuh that has a nozzle smaller then 0.25 mm is pretty sensible
like you said, and with a 0.15mm its really important to have a clean airbrush so it all works out.

Hi Stranger!, thanks for the info. You made me think something, could it be possible to get some of the dry paint from tip-dry to the inside of the nozzle and somehow prevent it to get out ever again?. I'm confused on how can my Infinity get clogged with the heavy thinning (1:5 w detail, w reducer) I'm currently using. Even more thinning won't fix the problem, only complete cleanup of the nozzle: dismantle AB, and then clean the tip carefully with the needle (it really gets me nervous, seems so delicate) to find a tiny clog close to the very tip of the nozzle. Once clean it's back to amazingness and awesomebility, with infinite detail... till 2,5 minutes later :'(

On the bright side of things, It's getting me more proficient with cleaning! :D
 
Hi Stranger!, thanks for the info. You made me think something, could it be possible to get some of the dry paint from tip-dry to the inside of the nozzle and somehow prevent it to get out ever again?. I'm confused on how can my Infinity get clogged with the heavy thinning (1:5 w detail, w reducer) I'm currently using. Even more thinning won't fix the problem, only complete cleanup of the nozzle: dismantle AB, and then clean the tip carefully with the needle (it really gets me nervous, seems so delicate) to find a tiny clog close to the very tip of the nozzle. Once clean it's back to amazingness and awesomebility, with infinite detail... till 2,5 minutes later :'(

On the bright side of things, It's getting me more proficient with cleaning! :D

I find that i have much more problems with a cloged nozzle when i use the wicked paints compared to my Schmincke paints. The Wicked dries up very quickly on the canvas what is good, but it also dries up quickly in the cup of the brush too.
Could be that some of the dried particles go into your nozzle and clog it. Usualy it helps on my end to clean the needle tip from tip dry, and give the gun a good flush with the paint. But as you mentioned with the 0.15mm nozzle it can happen
much more often that you have to clean it. Thank god the H&S is easy to disasemble the nozzle for cleaning :)
 
I find that i have much more problems with a cloged nozzle when i use the wicked paints compared to my Schmincke paints. The Wicked dries up very quickly on the canvas what is good, but it also dries up quickly in the cup of the brush too.
Could be that some of the dried particles go into your nozzle and clog it. Usualy it helps on my end to clean the needle tip from tip dry, and give the gun a good flush with the paint. But as you mentioned with the 0.15mm nozzle it can happen
much more often that you have to clean it. Thank god the H&S is easy to disasemble the nozzle for cleaning :)

Yes, fortunately it's a breeze to disassemble. One last question, do you use a nozzle reamer for cleaning the .15 tip? I couldn't find any suitable for such a small tip in ebay.
 
Yes, fortunately it's a breeze to disassemble. One last question, do you use a nozzle reamer for cleaning the .15 tip? I couldn't find any suitable for such a small tip in ebay.

Yes i have a cleaning needle that said it fits nozzles down to 0.2mm but it also works with the 0.15mm from H&S . But to be honest most of the paint i get out with a normal old airbrush needle
that i gently use to push the paint out on the front of the nozzle. I havent found anything that woould fit into the front to push it out on the back though.
Heard also a trick that peple use a wooden tooth pick and make it wet, then take a sharp knife and make it smaller till it fits into the nozzle to clean it. That way the wood
wont scrape the side of the metal nozzle as much as a metal cleaning needle does.
 
Yes i have a cleaning needle that said it fits nozzles down to 0.2mm but it also works with the 0.15mm from H&S . But to be honest most of the paint i get out with a normal old airbrush needle
that i gently use to push the paint out on the front of the nozzle. I havent found anything that woould fit into the front to push it out on the back though.
Heard also a trick that peple use a wooden tooth pick and make it wet, then take a sharp knife and make it smaller till it fits into the nozzle to clean it. That way the wood
wont scrape the side of the metal nozzle as much as a metal cleaning needle does.

Sounds great, and much faster than waiting for the reamer to arrive ;) ;)

Finally I've strained the wicked detail black and thinned 1:5 and MAGIC!!!, no more skipping, no more clogs, a lot less tip-dry enven with white!. Amazing stuff!!!. STRAINING = MUST.

Also bought a bottle of the spanish equivalent to windex (I guess) and clenaning is now a breeze. I tried first with the spare cup, just in case the product could eat the chrome, and after some 20 minutes the cup and the cup's cap remained perfect, so I've started using it. Way cheaper, and even works as a thinner for some vallejo paint I had already discarded for being absolutely impossible to work with (now with its reducer, nor with water). Now I get amazing detail with it!. Superb stuff!!

Today has been a great day! hahaha.
 
I also use a glass cleaner instead of the expensive airbrush cleaners. Some people mentioned that some glass cleaners use Amonie, im not sure if mine does since Amonia is not mentioned on the side of the bottle.
But i use it a longer time now and never had a problem so far with the crome. But im also not soaking up the whole airbrush for a longer time though. My airbrush cleaner i bought when i started out was like
12 Euro for 500ml, and the glass cleaner is 1 Euro for 1 Litre lol.
 
Yup, same here 1€ 1 litre :D lol and as for cheap thinner for vallejo: great stuff!! and also a lot cheaper!!
 
Hello paisano, I supose you're using "cristasol" as a thinner for Vallejo acrylics, is that true? it works?
I've been using vallejo Model Air paints without thinner on a chinese 0,3 airbrush for some time and without major problems, but now I'm going to buy a Infinity with 0,15/0,40 needles and I'm sure that the paint is going to obturate the 0,15 nozzle.
 
get some silkscreen silk (old/used or new )cut in 2-3" squares & strain your paint -for water based moisten silk 1st & paint will flow thru instead of beading up - I usually just stick silk in reg. funnel paint strainer - rinse out right away & reuse FOREVER- good luck, Boxcar
 
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