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Discussion in 'Introductions, We'd like to say Hi' started by GVW LEWIS, Jul 15, 2021.


  1. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    Just freshy starting up with Airbrushing (mainly modellism), and to say "hello".
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  2. Kingpin

    Kingpin Triple Actioner

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    Welcome aboard GVW :)
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  3. VanGogo

    VanGogo Triple Actioner

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    Hello GVW. Welcome to the forum.
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  4. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Staff Member Mod Very Likeable!

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    Hey man! Glad to have you aboard. What kit have you got yourself?


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  5. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    welcome to the forum hope you have a great stay with us
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  6. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    Hey :), thank you...

    Nothing too flashy nor too shabby... A Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 2-in-1 (0.2 and 0.4) and a double-head air compressor, capable of working pressure up to 60PSi. I think I will need an AB kitted out with a 0.5 tip, but don't know yet what's best at a reasonable price.

    I'm not new to painting, mostly traditional oils on canvas, in a modern, contemporary minimalist style for 20 years, but modelling is my other thing, which is where airbrushing is now entering my workbench. ;)

    Scale HO/OO (1:87/1:76) and 1:72. Multi modelling, from buildings, to landscaping, to diecast vehicles, figures, kits, locomotives and carriages re-livery paint work, etc. No oils, just acrylics this time. Oils take too long to dry :D. Along with it, electrics, electronics and computer-controlled stuff, for example signalling, turnouts, etc. It'll be fun.
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  7. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA QuickDraw and very happy #nobrushleftbehind Staff Member Admin SuperMod

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    Welcome from New Zealand.
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  8. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Staff Member Mod Very Likeable!

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    Sounds like some smart choices in regards to the kit. There’s a lot of H&S users who love their brushes.


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  9. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    Yeah... German precision engineering and design simplicity. Dismantling a H&S Evolution Silverline 2in1 airbrush is a breeze, simplest thing ever. Very clever design and a formidable reliability performance. I like IWATA as well. H&S and IWATA are my preferred brands.

    I have been thinking of a IWATA Revolution HP-M2 to fill that 0.5 tip requirement I mentioned earlier, simply because primers and sealers flow better within the 0.5/0.6 tip bracket. But for this, I also like the H&S GRAFO T2. All have the paint volume regulation knob, which I need, partly because of the type of work I do but also because I am now 57, so steady hand is harder than it used to be when I was 25 :D.

    Shall I explain a little?... If I may?...

    Models and miniatures are not toys, and many adult modellers like myself come from a Fine Art practice background, thus they seek to achieve a professional high standard result. Have a look at the example below, which is a factory finish (hand-painted, it is not possible to use robotics), but exemplifies perfectly what an after-market paint job must match:

    Rocco Electric Locomotive 1.png

    Some of the above is designed separately and then sent to the decals commercial printer to produce the decals (lettering and some details) but the paint job must be flawless, some areas may have received a white primer, a grey primer and a black primer, followed by a blue which is going to look different optically, because of the different primers underneath. Any defect will show through the decals, because the surface needs to be glossy, so the placement of the decals (wet-on-wet technique) will not show decal edgings. The final acrylic varnish or solvent-based lacquer layer over the whole work, whether glossy, satin or matt, seals the entire work in a way that must never show any edgings or imperfections.

    Lots of the techniques used come from the Fine Arts, such as scumble, glazing, marouflage, transfer, and even gilding. In gilding, a gloss size (or mordant as it is also known) is applied to handrails, then white gold, platinum or palladium leaf is applied, let to set and then "burnished" (polished) to a solid metal finish.

    110111 Neustadt - Weinstraße Railway Station.png

    The above, originally a station but kit conversion to a chateau, is 90cm long in its 1:87 HO scale configuration, big enough to show the standard of finish, assembly and paintwork. Here, Fine Art techniques like scumbles, glazes and washes come into play, along with dry pigment applications in places, for example stone work masonry, where a gilding technique is used by applying a size (mordant) and then brush dry pigment over it, which perfectly reproduces stone masonry. The primer underneath must be airbrushed thinly and self-level very smooth, as not to mar the top layers.
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  10. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Staff Member Mod Very Likeable!

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    Please always feel free to explain away man! I know next to nothing about painting models. Other than there are many techniques to achieve a really high level. I think the Revolution will do a great job for your needs. They have a great reputation and are a little easier on the wallet than some.


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  11. Karl Becker

    Karl Becker Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Welcome, and nice choice of hardware! That brush should serve you well.
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  12. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    Thank you for your comments. I am still uncertain, because Createx primers (AutoBorne Sealers as they are called officially) require a 0.5mm tip or slightly higher, IWATA Revolution M2 runs on 0.4mm and I fear it will not be enough. Harder & Steenbeck have the GRAFO T2, and I can change the tip to 0.6mm which resolves my problem but may be too generous size-wise, given I am working primarily within the 1:72, 1:76 (aka OO) and 1:87 (aka HO) scales.

    The question really is whether I should just work with 0.4mm tip and thin the primer with an adequate thinner as not to weaken adhesion properties. Push it through at 20-25 PSi. Let's assume a 0.4mm tip will not clog every 2 minutes :D. In the case of AutoBorne primers/sealers by CREATEX, thinning around 5% to 10% by volume means spraying with a 0.5mm tip. A 0.4mm tip may need as much as 15% to 20% thinning?... Probably yes.
  13. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    Thank you Karl. :)
  14. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Staff Member Mod Very Likeable!

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    I have used my Eclipse CS, which has a .35 nozzle to shoot Autobourne Sealer. I had to reduce it more than 10% but it went through no problem. It actually sprayed pretty nicely. I would recommend finding something to practice on and give it a try. I don’t think you’ll have any problems at all with a .4mm tip.


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  15. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    That's interesting, because it would allow me to get back to my original idea of getting an IWATA Revolution M2 (0.4mm) for priming purposes.

    CREATEX say it is okay to thin their AutoBorne sealers/primers with up to 20% Reducer 4011. It sounds a lot, but when translated into measurements by volume, it looks okay. In a 5ml cup of primer, 1ml (=20%) would be thinner 4011. Not too bad, as there is plenty of resin in the mix.

    Am I right to assume that once dried and cured, AutoBorne sealers are able to take any paint, not just Createx paints, for example, Vallejo, AK, Mission, etc?

    Attached Files:

  16. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Staff Member Mod Very Likeable!

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    The TDS are always a great starting point, but with a little experience it’s generally ok to push things further than they suggest. They should be compatible with pretty much any waterbased product.


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  17. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    very few paints will spray through an airbrush without any sort of reduction unless you have the PSI set to 35+ which is way to high for what most of us here do. (the only exception I have found is using Createx Illustration in a micron at 25 PSI - but as the paints age and evaporate some of their binders etc there is still a need to 'loosen' up the paint a bit)
    If Createx TDS says you can reduce a product then you can do so with confidence that it won't affect adhesion.
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  18. Karl Becker

    Karl Becker Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Jackie speaks the truth!

    Createx is pretty spot on with their recommendations, although many reduce beyond those. All depends on what you are using it for and with.
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  19. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    thanks for the vote of confidence lol
    while I'm guilty of reducing paint beyond manufacturer specification I don't do it with "non paint" (primers/sealers/top coats etc etc.)
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  20. GVW LEWIS

    GVW LEWIS Love this place! Forum Supporter

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    Yup, I agree. I find better and more consistently organised information with CREATEX than I do with Vallejo, AK, Mission, etc. But personally I draw a line between what is applicable in modelling and what applies to Fine Art.

    I am "old school", taught to observe rules of permanence, archival and paint film retrievability if necessary. Originally from an Oil Painting and gilding background, including traditional technique, I value the "old school" rules, even though I progressed into a contemporary minimalist abstract style. I discovered the "old school" rules were still applicable.

    So what I mean with all the above is I am doubtful I would use Createx, Vallejo, AK, Mission etc in art production, because there is a fundamental difference between lightfastness and permanence. This is true regardless of what media we utilise; it may be Oils, Acrylics, Gouache, Watercolour or whatever else. A lightfast pigment/colour does not mean the paint is permanent. Similarly, a permanent paint does not mean the pigment/colour is guaranteed as lightfast.

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