Helmet issues

jbuckley421

Gravity Guru
I've recently attempted to paint my first helmet. It is an older one, I think its made of some sort of composite. It had the factory graphics that are a decal with clear coat over the top, so I sanded it down to bare plastic with 600 grit. I then applied a layer of rattle can primer, and wet sanded with 600 till it was almost down to plastic again. I then cleaned and applied another layer of primer, and wet sanded with 1000, then cleaned it again. I used fine line tape and frisket stretch mask, and started on my design. I didn't do a solid base coat because I had a few different base colors, and wanted to save some paint. the first layer or so of paint worked out fine. I used 3m fine line tape and frisket again for the next consecutive layers, but when I pulled the tape and masking, the paint came with it. In the places where the paint didn't come up, there are little ridges from paint collecting against the edge of the tape.

Squishy suggested in another thread that this could be from putting the layers on too thick, or not letting them dry sufficiently before pulling the tape? Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I am using Golden High Flow Acrylic.

The attached pics are after the first layer of primer was sanded, and after pulling the tape, when paint started coming up. The primer is sticking, so its just the paint on top of the primer coming up.
 

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Not an expert here or nothin;
I'd suggest that you don't sand with anything above 800 pre-paint. Even after that I still use red scotch brite pads to get the primer where I like it before painting.
 
I had helmet issues before but doctor gave me tablets for it [emoji40] sorted it right out
 
All the difference in the world. Use wet, use it wet, oh and wet some more. But really, soak your sandpaper for at least 10 min before using it. As you use it, keeping dipping in fresh water to remove sanded particles. rinse the areas your working on frequently to avoid grinding. I keep a rag in my bucket of water for this. Of course all this water means you need to remove or tape/seal all that you can. Once the padding inside is wet, you really don't want to paint right away.
And uh Matty, glad your all sorted out.
 
All the difference in the world. Use wet, use it wet, oh and wet some more. But really, soak your sandpaper for at least 10 min before using it. As you use it, keeping dipping in fresh water to remove sanded particles. rinse the areas your working on frequently to avoid grinding. I keep a rag in my bucket of water for this. Of course all this water means you need to remove or tape/seal all that you can. Once the padding inside is wet, you really don't want to paint right away.
And uh Matty, glad your all sorted out.

Ok, perfect, thats what I've been doing. I Just keep the sand paper in a tupperware container full of water. any advice on how to avoid the little ridges of paint where the tape was?
 
Like Squishy said, thin layers. Spray away from the tape when possible. I have the same issue with tape jobs. after removing the tape, try going over it with a transparent (intercoat clear, color blender, trans. base) and then sand it down as much as possible. If it's still showing you'll have to "fix" it with your final clear coat (more sanding and buffing!).
 
If it can be fixed with clear coat, I'll stop stressing about it. I have yet to clear any of my stuff, so I'm not sure what all will be "fixed".
 
The so-called fix is to lay on a bunch of clear, sanding the resulting "lines" flat between sessions. That way you only cut into the clear and not your paint.
 
Its the primer. You have done everything else good. (Possible primer was too thick.) I see your in Montana, so you can go into O'Reilys, and buy a can of BULLDOG...gonna cost about 22-23 bucks, but it goes a long way. **my way, once helmet is sanded, spray bulldog first, THEN the primer. (I ran a few tests, and this worked the best). Once your primer has FULLY dried, gently sand with the 1000 grit, then paint. 3M blue tape is a good one for pulling the paint off (if not using bulldog). Also, I pull 3m off REALLY REALLY slow, and I NEVER let the tape (when pulling), get longer then say 2" long. Meaning, I used to pull tape off, and be like 10", away from project....bad idea, closer to project the better.
 
I've never used Golden High Flow Acrylic but logic tells me that your surface doesn't have enough "Tooth" , I alway use red scotch brite to key the surface for the base coat and then the subsequent coats (using the the same paint system) will adhere to the base coat, as designed.
Even though your helmet is mainly black I would still recommend you use a white base coat to allow the brighter colours to stay bright. The exception to this is if you are using exotic paints like sparkle Etc.
You say you are trying to save paint. I would suggest you reassess your point of view if you want good results. Being cheap with materials will only give you a cheap job.
 
Like Michele says,, Bulldog is great. I didn't mention because you had said that the primer was still intact. And I have to agree about the blue fine line. I try to only use it on basecoats, I cringe whenever I put it on artwork.
 
I use the green fineline and have no issues, but that is with wicked paint and the w500 reducer, which helps it cure enough to mask over.

Just a thought. If you are going to re do rather than try and fix this, then it might be worth doing a little test with some clear before you take it all off. One to practice the fixing of any ridges etc, so you won't be experimenting on the real thing, but also if the primer is on too thick/isn't dry etc it could react when you put the clear on which might confirm that was the issue.
 
Just wondering why you had to go to so much trouble prepping it. I have painted many old helmets and all i have had to do is sand with 800 wet and dry and remove ALL gloss thoroughly. Then wax and grease remover. Then a couple of wet coats of grey auto primer in my full size spray gun, making sure to cover any decals that may or may not be on it. Just a light dry sand and i`m ready to go. I use Trident paints and have never had any problems with paint lifting off primer. Trident can be masked with masking tape or film straightaway and removed without lifting. I am not familiar with your products so can not offer you an explanation of your problems. It just sounds like too many coats too soon causing lifting. Paint build up on tape edge can be a nuisance. I keep auto clear in my Paasche syphon feed gun and when i remove tape i give a couple of coats and then can sand any lines back straightaway with wet and dry 2000. Works for me. Don`t give up.
 
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