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Help ! Issue with brand new Iwata Eclipse BS

Discussion in 'Beginners help' started by Crimsin_XIII, Sep 24, 2021.


  1. Crimsin_XIII

    Crimsin_XIII Young Tutorling

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    I just purchased an Eclipse BS model from Iwata, bout 2-3days ago. I just went to use it for the first time, and already having an issue. I was doing a zenithal Highlight, which I used a different airbrush to run primer thru, but once I got to the part where you apply your white layer. I wanted to use my new Airbrush. For my white I use Tamiya XF-2 Flat White, along with their thinner (I only use their brand of thinner when using XF-2, since its alcohol based, nad my other thinners are designed for Water based acrylics).

    Anyways, the issue I'm having is. As soon and I push the trigger down for air, it starts spraying Paint before I had even pulled the trigger back. I am new to airbrushing. This is my first
    nice, somewhat expensive Airbrush. So I admittedly am still learning how to troubleshoot these kind of issues. I'm hoping one of you can help me solve this issue.
  2. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Staff Member Admin Mod Very Likeable!

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    Something blocking needle to go to the end. So there is a gap and that's why paint coming out. Clean nozzle. That would be my wild guess. Or you didn't inserted needle to the end. Be gentle with your new airbrush and congrats. Nice airbrush.

    While I am in your thread let me invite you to introduce yourself here:
    https://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

    This is something we do on this forum and nothing to be scared off. :)

    Welcome dragon.jpg
    Crimsin_XIII likes this.
  3. Joe pulvirenti

    Joe pulvirenti Spider Splatterer

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    Is you needle chucking nut screwed tight and is your needle all the way to the nozzle you should just see it pop out
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  4. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Staff Member Admin Mod Very Likeable!

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    here is a video about troubleshooting an airbrush and guy has the same airbrush like you do. Well, he has few more of them... :whistling:

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  5. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    I always fully dismantle and clean out any new brush, it removes all manufacturering contamination.
    paint without pulling the trigger back indicates the needle isn’t seated properly in the nozzle
    If you’ve simply filled with paint and spraying it may be that the needle was retracted a little to protect it during transit. Loosen the needle chuck and see if it will move forward at all. DO NOT force it forward, you’ll risk splitting/flaring the nozzle.
    If the needle feels like it’s sticking slightly then there is likely a paint build up in the nozzle so clean that out before trying again.
    Keep a siphon bottle with cleaner/water/windex whatever to give quick cleans.
  6. Gregg

    Gregg Double Actioner

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    Everything everyone else said! Sometimes just backing needle out and gently pushing it back in while spinning the needle as it comes to a stop and using a wet paper towel to clean the nozzle end works, make sure your needle chuck is snug. Don't force the needle forward hard just to where it stops to prevent damage like JackEb said. I actually find that it happens on my iwatas after cleaning or changing colors because the cleaner or water sprayed through kinda tightens things up at first. Just make sure you test on your hand or scrap material before you go back to your work piece everytime.
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  7. Kim McCann

    Kim McCann Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    One other thing that I don't think I have seen mentioned. The spring tension on the needle chuck might be a bit loose. The Needle chucking guide screws in an holds the spring that gives resistance and pushes the needle forward in place. If this is a bit loose, which is common in shipping, and you use it straight out of the box, this is a likely culprit. It may not be pushing the needle in all the way. You can turn it clockwise to tighten and increase needle tension. That should make it press a bit firmer against the inside of the nozzle and prevent any paint leakage.

    There are some great tips above. But more than anything I would stress being gentle. Firm but gentle. Nozzles are very, very easy to damage and a common pitfall for new users that are overaggressive in cleaning. If you disassemble, things should really only go back together finger tight. Don't use tools if you can possibly avoid it.

    Airbrushes are tested at the factory, so it's possible, but unlikely that there is a trace of dried paint in the nozzle preventing a tight fit. Easy enough to deal with.... gently take out the needle from the rear, put the airbrush in some hot soapy water for 40 min to an hour rinse thoroughly and when re-inserting the needle, give it a couple turns, pull it out and look at the tip for any dried paint that's flaked off, wipe away and reinsert.

    Once you have your brush assembled, test sprays with water to clear out any remaining junk and then let dry.

    The number one cause of airbrush damage or weird performance for new users is over aggressive cleaning. I cannot stress this enough. It was an expensive lesson for me as a young artist. There wasn't an internet where I could look things up when I was young, so I learned the hard, and very costly way not to do that.

    Basically, once you have a good spray with water, do your absolute level best to never, ever remove the air cap, or nozzle for cleaning. Avoid it as much as humanly possible. Use soap and hot water (liquid dishwasher soap is about the best thing ever for removing old paint), and soak. Never force anything. Avoid using nozzle cleaning pins, or anything that goes into the nozzle. The magic of hot water and soap is about all you should use unless there is absolutely no other choice.

    With model paints, from Tamiya, Citadel, Army Painter, green stuff, etc... ALL of them need to be over reduced, especially the white or light colors when doing zenithal highlighting. The pigment particles are large and clog super easily. Beware their reducers however. Tamiya is actually a waterbourne paint, like most acrylics. Not an alcohol. Alcohol is added to their reducer to help it dry faster, but that can be a nightmare with an airbrush, leading to tip dry and clogs. I strongly recommend you look at reducing with something like Liquitex or Createx reducers, or roll your own with the classic recipe for acrylic reducer / flow improver made with glass cleaner, a dash of denatured alcohol, a lot of water and a teaspoon of glycerin. There are plenty of recipes online.

    For your highlights, work in multiple thin, thin, thin layers. Dry fully between layers. Otherwise you will get paint buildup, it will take forever to cure, and you'll lose a ton of model detail.
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  8. erwin de pan

    erwin de pan Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    You received fantastic advice on how to clean the airbruch and how to get it back to working order.
    But what I don't understand Why many model painters don't use airbrush paint?
    Like createx, colden, holbein. and so on.
    I think you get the same result or even better with less problems.
  9. AndreZA

    AndreZA Love this place! Forum Supporter Very Likeable!

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    I think you mean artists brands and that is because they don't come in the colours needed. Builders does not mix paint. They rely on the manufacturers to get the colours right. But you do get all the brands in airbrush-ready versions of which you can easily use in your artwork if you need a specific colour. Especially if you're gonna do a painting of a war scene.
  10. erwin de pan

    erwin de pan Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Now I get it.
    If you need that special color there is no other option.
    if you mix colors yourself
    createx has a whole line that focuses on model building. (Bloodline, Createx Pearl,
    Auto Air (now Wicked)
  11. Kim McCann

    Kim McCann Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    You actually don't. The pigment density and matte finish of the model paints is very different, and best of all, they adhere to plastic and resin without adhesion promoters.

    Thankfully some model paint makers like Citadel have started to make airbrush versions of their paints, and airbrush reducer.

    Createx Wicked is ok with most models, but sticks like crap on resin, and even the detail line, which are supposed to be matte are quite shiny on plastic. You end up needing to add matte medium to compensate, and that leads to clogs. Better to just use proper model paint thinned and reduced properly.
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  12. erwin de pan

    erwin de pan Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Good thing I'm not a model painter.
    My approach would be.
    primer, color, varnish.
    Didn't know it was that different.
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