Help!! Wicked colors kicking my butt!

D

Dodgegirlo8

Guest
So i finally got my airbrush up and running. Been playing with it for the past week and a half (stole the hood off myhusbands
Mustang :D ). Ivegot the wickedcolors and the reducer that came with it. But i cant figure out
How much to add. No matter what im doing it always ends up drying inside the holder. And i cant seem to get it all clean. Ive broke it down and let it sit an hour in mineral spirits. But theres still some i cant get out.

I got frustrated enough to try oneshot.... alls that did was make it worse. It kept splattering and wouldnt come out right.

I dont know if its just operator error - wouldnt suprise me even a little bit. - or something else. Im so lost
On this deal its not even funny. :(

Please help! Thank you!!! ★
 
Drops is the answer
You really do not need a cup full of paint to paint.
most time I use on average 3 drops paint with 9 drops reducer , Unless I know I have to cover a large area than I will mix it up to meet the needs of the job.

If your paint is drying in the cup you have too much mixed and maybe taking to many breaks while painting.
so just mix it in the cup or in a clean plastic paint bottle and just add a few drops to the cup at a time.

Oh and One shot and Wicked do not mix
solvent and water do not mix. That can and most times will cause major problems'
 
So instead of mixing an oz or two at a tme, i just need a few drops?
 
Exactly, dodge! The paint goes surprisingly far. I would only mix up an ounce or two at a time to: 1. Cover a very large area or 2. If I have quite a few objects that require the same color all over a large surface. Mineral spirits won't budge wicked, period. Lacquer thinner on the other hand will break that stuff up and take care of it in short order. You don't really need something that drastic to do the normal inbetween cleaning. Just when you're doing a deep clean of the brush. If you do use those heavy duty solvents to clean out your brush be VERY careful and DON'T let the seals soak at all in that stuff. Now for the inbetween cleaning or just rinsing out the cup getting ready for the next color, either water or window cleaner (the stuff they use for cars without the ammonia) works. Just squirt it in there with the squirty bottle set to stream. That will take care of that issue.
 
I agree, with what's been said, don't have so much in the cup at once. If you think you need more mix it in a small bottle, and just use a little at a time. Also what brush do you have? If it is a cheaper brush with thin, or not flat chrome, (I once had a Chinese knock of that had an actual lumpy finish) or an older brush where the chrome is starting, or has, come off, then that can cause pant to stick. The chrome on my brush is wearing off, so I use some lube and lightly apply a layer with a q tip (it must be proper airbrush lube), it works a treat, quick and easy clean up every time.
 
Thanks guys! I had no clue not to mix very much at once. :) ive got a iwata eclipse hpcs. With the gravity fed cup.
 
When cleaning your HP-CS, you can use either the Createx airbrush cleaner, or, for a cheaper option, a solution of Dawn dish soap and water. Household cleaners like Windex or Fantastik Heavy-Duty also work very well, but contain ammonia, which will eat through the chrome plating on your airbrush. This will mostly occur inside the color cup, and actually makes no difference at all on performance. But, why cause more wear and tear than you need to, right? For deeper cleanings, I use the Createx Airbrush Restorer. Just put some in your color cup after a normal cleaning, and let it sit for a while. DON'T spray it through the airbrush. It's pretty nasty stuff to inhale. But, a good soak, followed with some backflushing and a really good rinse with water will get most gunk out of your airbrush. Another product you might find helpful is E'Tac Condition-air. It's main purpose it to slow drying times while painting, but I've found several other good uses for it. Most obviously, add a COUPLE drops to your paint while mixing. This will slow down the drying time, cut down on tip dry and clogging, and gives a softer, better atomized spray. Just don't add too much, or you'll be measuring your drying time with a calendar. Also, I use it as an in-between session soak. I'll mix it about 50/50 with water, then put some in my airbrush after cleaning. Not to the top of the color cup, but enough that it reaches the Teflon bearing between the trigger and color cup. I've found that this does a few nice things. For one, it keeps any paint you may have missed during cleaning from drying, and will usually break it loose and float it to the top. Also, it keeps the needle bearing nice and conditioned, and well lubricated, which keeps the action nice and smooth. You can also use glycerin in place of the Condition-air. It is cheap, and available almost anywhere. But, it can cause adhesion issues when mixed with paint, and can eventually get gummy and create quite a mess in your airbrush. I've used it in a pinch, though, and it will do the job. If you use either as a between-session soak, make sure to give your brush a good rinse with lots of water before you load up the paint. Sorry for the run-on paragraph. For some reason, my browser won't let me use my "enter" button on this forum, so everything gets smooshed into one giant paragraph ;-)
 
Also if you are using the wicked reducer, one of it's properties is to speed up drying time, (which is great) so if you have paint clinging to the side of your cup that is left behind as you use it, then the reducer could be helping it dry and stick on there. Lubing the cup prevents it sticking, but HCP-draggin is the man, so just do as he does!
 
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