Hey There!

Classy Finish

Young Tutorling
After reading a few posts, it seems an introduction is highly encouraged on this platform. So... here I am!

My name is Jesse, and I live in Southeast Missouri. I've been in paint and body since 1995, and currently have a restoration shop and a mobile detailing business. Needless to say, I stay pretty busy! LOL

I've taken an interest in Airbrushing many times over the years, but seem to have a hard time making it a continual habit. I'll practice a bit, then my interest seems to fade off for whatever reason. Mostly due to my not practicing enough to get the results I want. As I'm getting older, I see it as a skill I'd like to improve upon for the long haul and hope to make it a continual practice.

I'm currently using Createx Airbrush Colors, mostly due to them being so readily available. I started off using the Wicked Colors line, but I've found nothing but frustration with the system. I may revisit it at a later date. But, for now, the regular ol' Createx seems to be a lot less frustrating for me.

I am using an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, and a Badger Patriot 105. I like them both, as each has certain things that it's better at than the other. I plan to buy the Paasche Talon kit soon. I'd like to have the 3 different nozzle/needle combos to play with. I've noticed folks saying that the Badger and Paasche are "junk" which I find humorous. I've found the Eclipse acts clunky more often than the Badger, the finish in the bowl has more or less washed off, and the OEM lid is hard as heck to get on and off. Now, the Eclipse is sporting a plastic Badger lid I ordered from Spray Gunner, which I like much better. It's a good airbrush, and I'm happy with it. But, by no means is it the holy grail in manufactured quality. At the end of the day, I assume ALL airbrushes are finicky and fiddly to a point, by nature of the design.

My main interest is automotive/motorcycle style graphics, although I've been practicing on paper. I'm sure I'll have a bit of adjustment when I switch over to hard surfaces. But, for now, paper just seems like a better option for dots and dagger strokes. I saw it mentioned on a post here that using a piece of glass is a great way to practice on a hard Surface. Sounds like a good idea to me! So, I plan on picking up a picture frame later today for practicing.

I guess that's it for now. Look forward to getting to know you fine folks better in the weeks to come!
 
Gday from melbourne Australia what compressor have ya got.
I have the Fortress 1 Gal. Ultra Quiet from Harbor Freight. It's a pretty solid little compressor, and really quiet. I used it in my detail business for a while for blowing dust out of the crevices in the car interiors. Now, I only use it for airbrushing.
 
Welcome to the forum. I know you didnt get on well with Wicked but when you swap over to hard surfaces the regular createx will not be the best as its for tshirts mainly although you can use it on paper and apparently lexan shells for RC vehicles as it is flexible. You might as well get used to using wicked now if thats what you will be using on the automotive stuff, but the same goes for solvent paints or any other system you choose. Yes the glass is a good way of adjusting to a hard surface as you just scrape it off the glass and start again.

Lee
 
Welcome to the forum. I know you didnt get on well with Wicked but when you swap over to hard surfaces the regular createx will not be the best as its for tshirts mainly although you can use it on paper and apparently lexan shells for RC vehicles as it is flexible. You might as well get used to using wicked now if thats what you will be using on the automotive stuff, but the same goes for solvent paints or any other system you choose. Yes the glass is a good way of adjusting to a hard surface as you just scrape it off the glass and start again.

Lee

Thanks for the welcome and tips! Yeah, I'm actually playing with Wicked as we speak. As for actual projects that matter, I'll prolly be using solvent-based, since that's what I have the most previous painting experience with. I'm only using the water-based stuff now so that my apartment doesn't stink. LOL
 
Welcome from Australia Jesse,
Yeah, like Si said, the airbrush colors are aimed at textiles but anything that works for practise is good :)


Solvent/urethane should only be sprayed in a controlled environment with appropriate commercial ventilation of a spray booth and full body PPE.

Water based still requires caution and a mask is recommended as a minimum.

OK, I think I covered all the health and safety stuff :D

The createx range is good but like anything there is a learning curve. which as you are aware requires practise, practise and when you have time, Practise lol

I don't recall anyone here referring to Badger / Paasche as 'Junk' but like anything mass produced there's going to be the odd item that slid through quality control. I have seen some comments that the newer Badger/Paasche aren't quiet as good as the older models (same could be said of a lot of mass produced goods :( )

Re the Eclipse: if you've been running solvents through the brush that could explain the degradation in the finish of the bowl and if it doesn't have the solvent proof seals then that could also contribute to the 'clunkiness' you describe. - just offering reasons why you could be experiencing these issues, you may also just have got a 'dud' :) I do however agree that the OEM lid is tighter than it needs to be.


get into the habit of stirring/aggitating your paint and straining it before it goes into the airbrush - its something you would be use to with your prior use of solvent paint. Airbrush paint is no different.

putting a kids colouring in picture under glass is a great way to learn control and practise on a hard surface, it also saves paper.
https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/practice-on-glass.23868/
 
Thanks for your thorough reply! All great points that I'll keep in mind on my airbrushing journey.
I have only been using Createx through the Iwata. The wearing away of the finish doesn't bother me. I just found it odd that it wore away as to where the Badger has not. The clunkiness is kind of random, and can usually be remedied by a couple twists of the needle chucking guide, or loosening then re-tightening the chucking nut. The Badger does the same thing, just not as often. I think they both need broken in a bit more, as I just bought the Badger the middle of August, then the Iwata a couple weeks later. So they're both still pups. LOL I don't remember seeing anyone here calling Badger/Paasche junk, mostly on YouTube and Reddit. It just seemed a common theme, which is what spurred me to buy the Iwata, thinking the Badger may be part of the reason I was having so many issues. Unfortunatly, there's no magic rainbows included in the Iwata kit like I had expected. Just the need for patience and practice. :laugh:
 
@DaveG may have an explaination why the Iwata seems clunky on pull back.
Practise builds muscle memory and you’ll eventually stop thinking about how to operate the brush and start scratching your head about paint reductions , relevant PSI etc :)
Practise isn’t limited to dots and daggers, pick a subject you enjoy, find a picture and have a go at it, or even just a part of it, and see how you go. Sometimes jumping in the deep end has its benefits lol
 
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