How to put airbrush gun together?

Tiriaq

Young Tutorling
I've only found pictures here and there and nothing good yet in vids how to put my 3 airbrush guns together. There are two that have no screwthread and seemingly you just push the bottle in?? It can fall out, I try to check with my finger if it stays in. (there are also caps with screwthread in them but I have no single clue how that could work) I've managed to build furniture, resin surfboard, photoshop projects, polymer clay projects all in a short time and now I can't figure this one out. It really got to me this one, I'm pretty down)

The other regular top loader (I'm Dutch, no idea how they call these technical things) it worked but just nearly. It sprayed so little paint that I needed to push the needle almost in the paper to see something even if I had the handle all the way back and it was not capped by the screw on the back. Playing with pressure didn't help.

There are millions of vids of how to airbrush but I really need the bascis and they always show you also how to put together and take apart a toploader. Never those with bottles. I don't have a technical name for it in Dutch and I tried Airbrush Gun Underloader 0 hits.

Now I filled a bottle in the hope that it would do better than my toploader and it's probably wasted paint now, I want to primer a plastic kit gun. But trying it on paper it left behind something so coarse it looked like texture from a wallpaper. I tried screwing the copper front a bit and it helped to get a tinnnny bit more out but it's working weird. When you screw too far also nothing comes out and what comes out is horrible.

I've been preparing for weeks building and saving up money for the ventilationbox and expensive paint and it looks like something is just wrong.


http://www.tiikoni.com/tis/view/?id=c4766d3 (Humbrol enamel primer - grey)
http://www.tiikoni.com/tis/view/?id=6681db5 (example of the sprays)
http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2015/054/f/b/jp2_by_tiriaq-d8j7nh3.jpg (the airbrush set with compressor)
http://www.tiikoni.com/tis/view/?id=a94c830 (pushed the paint can in, there is no locking mechanism? and connected a tinner wire for the air to the compressor)
http://tiriaq.deviantart.com/journal/homemade-airbrush-ventilationbox-almost-finished-520118420 (ventilation box)


Thanks in advance, I've been spamming some Youtube vids for help but it's not working. The Dutch only have some modelkit forums where they occasionally airbrush and can't get much help there either) I seriously need some friendly hints and pointers how to make this work. I even bought a bikelift in another town to hang the ventilationbox on and it's all for nothing at the moment...
 
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Hi Tiriaq and welcome to the forum, are you (thinning) reducing the paint before you try to spray?

Jim
 
untitled_by_tiriaq-d8lnxe5.jpg
 
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Hi Tiriaq and welcome to the forum, are you (thinning) reducing the paint before you try to spray?

Jim

Hi Jim, thank you for replying. One bottle here says: Opaque Createx Airbrush Colors - pink. It feels just the right consistancy milky. I didn't think it needed to be thinned down, is it?

Isn't there something you can do to adjust the needle or w/e to make more paint come out? If so I don't know how to, though.

I can't believe how coarse the grey primer is, it's from a small metal thingie with a cap that looks like when we used to paint scale models with in the earlier days. That one could use thinning, have to look up how to thin the Humbrol enamel though. You think I can keep it inside the glass bottle or do I need to wash it out now that I don't see a way to spray it normal for now?
 
Your airbrushes are hit n miss mate... Cheap chinese stuff. If you have already invested a lot, you would be better off getting a good airbrush and good paint to start. You will also need to thin down paint before it will go through anything smoothly.
Lots of help here dont worry and chill.
 
I've never used Createx but I have read it is best used with a .5mm or larger nozzle.

Once the needle is fully pulled back your not going to get any more paint, if you need more you use a larger size gun.

Your paint really needs to be thin to get through the gun, use an appropriate reducer for the paint your using.

Thin your paint down and make sure your gun is clean and doesn't have any dried paint in the nozzle or on the needle and give it another shot.

Jim
 
Standard createx isn't designed for artwork. It's designed for textiles and should be used in a .5mm or larger needle.
Createx wicked / detail / illustration are the three designed for artwork and .3mm and smaller needles.
Whatever you do only tear down one brush at a time so you don't get parts mixed up.
A good soak in water so you don't kill the seals and clean out. Thin the paint. Strain before putting in the brush, it should be enough to get your feet wet :)
 
Standard createx isn't designed for artwork. It's designed for textiles and should be used in a .5mm or larger needle.
Createx wicked / detail / illustration are the three designed for artwork and .3mm and smaller needles.
Whatever you do only tear down one brush at a time so you don't get parts mixed up.
A good soak in water so you don't kill the seals and clean out. Thin the paint. Strain before putting in the brush, it should be enough to get your feet wet :)


Okay I'll try to thin it down. Just with water or alcohol? I'm only using the airbrush gun to do a camo job on a 1:3 scale rifle kit and later my 1:3 scale wooden furniture. I cannot use cans inside the house or anywhere around on my balcony or inside the house. The airbrush is a replacement for that.
I don't play to draw with it, maybe in the future make some random color paintings.
 
Your airbrushes are hit n miss mate... Cheap chinese stuff. If you have already invested a lot, you would be better off getting a good airbrush and good paint to start. You will also need to thin down paint before it will go through anything smoothly.
Lots of help here dont worry and chill.


Thanks but I don't play to draw with them and I kept the investments at a minimal because of my minimum income. 1K euro in debt at the moment so this thing for 126 euro was really affordable. It should do at least what I've planned to do with it; a camo job 1:3 gun and some furniture 1:3 sized selfmade wooden

The ventilationbox is from Ikea 13 euro and an old grill rack, hooked it up to 20 euro snail ventilation, very cheap all. Bikelift was 2nd hand 6 euro.
 
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I've never used Createx but I have read it is best used with a .5mm or larger nozzle.

Once the needle is fully pulled back your not going to get any more paint, if you need more you use a larger size gun.

Your paint really needs to be thin to get through the gun, use an appropriate reducer for the paint your using.

Thin your paint down and make sure your gun is clean and doesn't have any dried paint in the nozzle or on the needle and give it another shot.

Jim


cool, I'll do that once I find out what the proper thinning of that bottle is. It has to be more like ecoline ink thickness, watery?
 
I'm still hoping for a video how to put together those airbrushes with bottles. When I spray the 1:3 scale furniture I'm going to need a lot more paint than a usual airbrush job.

Also if it is important when you turn the point of that kind of airbrush what will happen to the spray etc
 
Createx is water based so use water or the createx reducer, as for the enamel paints you will need thinners.
The createx wicked will do what you want and being water based less fumes to worry about.
It sounds like your paint was too thick and clogged the brush/s. Google images should be able to find you a 'blow apart image of a single action airbrush', I'll do a quick look too and see if I can find something

Edit: there should be an image in the box it came with
 
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That is a single action external airbrush in the photo. Turning the nozzle will increase/decrease the amount of paint that is delivered. Your regulator will change the amount of air you are spraying with. You need to find the magic combination of paint viscosity, air pressure, and paint volume for everything to work right. Being external mix, just unscrew the nozzle all the way off and pop the portion with the needle on it out (the part the bottle connects to). Rinse it and put it back the same way you took it off.
 
welcome aboard.....siphon feed is the term your looking for on the bottle brushes..black one is single action and the other one is double action.. your other gun ia a gravity feed gun.. hope that helps....cool spray booth by the way
 
Okay I'll try to thin it down. Just with water or alcohol? I'm only using the airbrush gun to do a camo job on a 1:3 scale rifle kit and later my 1:3 scale wooden furniture. I cannot use cans inside the house or anywhere around on my balcony or inside the house. The airbrush is a replacement for that.
I don't play to draw with it, maybe in the future make some random color paintings.

I'd your using the createx, it's a water based paint so you can use water to thin it BUT you'll get a better finish using the createx reducer.
The enamel paint will require thinners and I don't know what is recommended for your brand so I don't know if alcohol is the right thing to use
If your planning on paint 1:3 scale furniture in just a single color you may have been better getting a mini spray gun instead of airbrushes
 
Thanks but I don't play to draw with them and I kept the investments at a minimal because of my minimum income. 1K euro in debt at the moment so this thing for 126 euro was really affordable. It should do at least what I've planned to do with it; a camo job 1:3 gun and some furniture 1:3 sized selfmade wooden

The ventilationbox is from Ikea 13 euro and an old grill rack, hooked it up to 20 euro snail ventilation, very cheap all. Bikelift was 2nd hand 6 euro.

I know what you mean about wanting to keep costs down, but buying a cheap chinese brush isn't the saving you think it is. You can get lucky, but usually they don't work well at all, and many just don't work. Even if it does work, parts are so poorly made, and materials so inferior that after being used a couple of times, they become pretty useless. It's not all about the fine detail work either. If it isn't working properly you won't get good consistent paint through the gun at all. Even if you are just wanting to do a camo look, you will want to be able to get even coverage, without spitting or getting a grainy finish, and be able to have some control.

If you are relatively inexperienced with an airbrush it you may not be sure if it is your gun that is at fault or just something that you are doing. Many people give up on airbrushing thinking they can't do it, when actually it is the poor equipment that is the problem. So getting these guns is a false economy because you will always be replacing parts ( or deciding that for the cost of replacing them you could get another knock off - but then you are likely to soon be faced with the same issues), or just spending hours getting them to work instead of actually learning to airbrush. They are unlikely to be reliable or consistant and will affect your ability to work with them. By the time you have bought one or more, and replaced parts, or replaced the whole gun, you could have just bought a decent low end brush.

I would say that of the people on the forum who have bought these kind of brushes, and were serious about airbrushing, probably 95% moved on to a proper brand named brush. Even the lower end of any of the brands will be infinitely better than any knock off, will be reliable and if looked after will last for years and years.. It's one of those you get what you pay for things unfortunately
 
You've gotten a lot of good advice already, so I'll just comment on the bottle falling off. When you install the bottle, give it a little twist and it will stay in place. Give it another twist when you remove it and it will come off easy.

Don
 
You've gotten a lot of good advice already, so I'll just comment on the bottle falling off. When you install the bottle, give it a little twist and it will stay in place. Give it another twist when you remove it and it will come off easy.

Don
Yes, thanks everyone. I'm not very active because at the moment I need to come out of a huge debt but as soon as I get some money free I'll buy some thinners. I've been looking online to make my own but I haven't got enough experience with paint to know what is what and which is the best one.

The stores here are far away and I don't want to pay 7 euro just to have two bottles of thinning stuff brought. So I'm going to see if I might discover any stores in cities near.
 
I know what you mean about wanting to keep costs down, but buying a cheap chinese brush isn't the saving you think it is. You can get lucky, but usually they don't work well at all, and many just don't work. Even if it does work, parts are so poorly made, and mgs unfortunately


I will definitily take this in consideration when they start to fail, I'm usually buying stuff that I can barely afford but the best available for the money I can buy. Seeing that I'm not using this much I just had to choose the cheaper stuff. I'm always advising for better stuff, too in my perfectionist view of things but this is pure a money and priority problem. I shouldn't be buying it in the first place, so I know it's hard to go to a forum and ask while I know the problem could be the equipment but then again, I am really new to this and it can be quite handy for my doll-hobby.

Thank you for taking the time to explain it!
 
I'd your using the createx, it's a water based paint so you can use water to thin it BUT you'll get a better finish using the createx reducer.
The enamel paint will require thinners and I don't know what is recommended for your brand so I don't know if alcohol is the right thing to use
If your planning on paint 1:3 scale furniture in just a single color you may have been better getting a mini spray gun instead of airbrushes


Oooh... a mini spraygun you say, I just looked up some pictures. If it's affordable then I might indeed get one of those later. I just have to see how much paint an airbrush can move but one said that if I thin it enough I could 'wet my feet with it' so it could be very well enough. I don't know this, yet.

Thanks for that minigun tip!
 
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