How to reduce opaques?

S

Smiler65

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i know this is going to be a really stupid question when I see the answers:rolleyes:

Currently I use com-art transparents and reduce them with a transbase and a reducer.

I have now mixed up some capped colours in opaque, again com-art,can I still reduce these just using the reducer( not the transbase) to help getting it through my 0.18 setup or will it behave like a transparent?
 
A transparantbase is just paint without pigment, you can use it for both opaques and transparants to reduce the amount of pigment aplied without the paint losing viscosity

A transparant base will not make the paint thinner, as you add pimentless paint you just reduce the amount of pigment enabeling you to work in "thinner" layers, so it will not help with the flow (make it easier to spray through a 0.18)

Using reducer will make the paint thinner and flow more smoothly. It will (neither will the transparant base) not have any effect on wether the paint is opaue or not. Adding a lot of reducer will make the paint apear to be transparant but this is juts the effect of the reducedamount of pigment. When applied in enough layers itwill (as oposed to a transparant) reach full opacity
 
I believe so mate, I use autoair and reduce using same method with transparent and opaque. You will see difference when it goes on.
 
Thanks gents.
I'm still a bit confused, I know I'm thick, but I understand the transbase is pigment less paint,
so if I add this it makes the paint able to be built up in layers as your thinng the colour and not the viscosity, is that right?
In the transparent paint I add 4011 reducer to make the paint thinner to aid with flow,correct?

It's the flow with the opaque paints I want to adjust not the colour or am I not understanding opaque paints properly.
 
Beware I'm not a chemist and this is stuff I learned a long long time ago at school :p

Both transparant base and reducers will reduce the amount of pigment as you dilute the paint which contains the pigment adding other stuff to that will always reduce the % of pigment you apply.

Transparant base: does nothing for the properties (viscosity) of the paint other than reduce the % of pigment.
Reducers (water 4011 etc etc): Reduce the amount of % of pigment and (in general) thin the paint making it flow better / easier. This does reduce the paints viscosity.

Neither of them can affect your color being it opaque or transparant, as you don't add pigment and it's the pigment that makes a paint opaque or transparant.

Maybe this will help:

An paint becomes opaque by adding black or white to it. This means you can make any transparant opaque (this I tested) by adding a drop of black or white to it. This is also the reason we have transparant white (which would be more or less useless) and black, as you'll need this to adjust the value of transparants without making them opaque.

A transparant in general is also a bit more vibrant due to this as it isn't diluted by a black or white.
 
You are on the right path, reducer will aid your flow, also a little water wont hurt that com art. Im using wicked w500 as of last week with my com art and it seems to be superb. I have yet to find a transparent base with com art I liked, easy enough to thin and spray light. So yeah if you dont want to lighten the paint just reduce, opaques will reach full opacity and not go higher. Transparents will always build on themselves, if that makes sense.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Maybe I should have paid more attention in art classes at school, it always comes back to bite you at some pointlol

@haasje dutchairbrush that is very easy to read, I might have to read it several times to fully digest it but think I understand it now.

As I'm a bit free over the weekend I'll probably gets some paint out and just have a play about and try and put the theory into practice:thumbsup:
If all else fails I'll just have to buy a bigger needled brushlol

Thanks again.
 
You are on the right path, reducer will aid your flow, also a little water wont hurt that com art. Im using wicked w500 as of last week with my com art and it seems to be superb. I have yet to find a transparent base with com art I liked, easy enough to thin and spray light. So yeah if you dont want to lighten the paint just reduce, opaques will reach full opacity and not go higher. Transparents will always build on themselves, if that makes sense.
i have used water to reduce before, but after a recent thread, I started using reducer and transbase and found it a lot easier to build up more slowly, still heavy fingered at times but that's just practice needed.
The opaque paint is just to try getting a picture done with better blends etc as it looks as though you can't overdo it unless you use the wrong opacity mix.
 
Yes, im working on a mixture trans and opaques now, and yes tne recent thread is what got me into using aa reducer. The upside to transparents is your picture takes shape much faster. Going to try some of the color buffering on the next one. Which is really just using transparent paint to tint your opaque.
As for using transparent base in your opaque, it sill still reach full opacity. just gives you more room to work in layers. And that is what I think you are trying to do. Yes it makes the opaque lighter when spraying, but as you build, it will eventually reach full opacity anyway. Ie if you spray non transparent base cobalt blue at 100% opacity it will be the same opacity as multiple layers of cobalt blue mixed with extender in theory. In reality tne transparent base mixed with tne opaque will give it more gloss. Because transparent base has more gloss to it. Opaques are semi flat in com art and tranxparents have gloss, transparent ase is azemi gloss medium.
 
Holy crap I almost sound like I know what im talking about. I mm still a newbie so when a real painter comes in they may slap me down.
 
i have used water to reduce before, but after a recent thread, I started using reducer and transbase and found it a lot easier to build up more slowly, still heavy fingered at times but that's just practice needed.
The opaque paint is just to try getting a picture done with better blends etc as it looks as though you can't overdo it unless you use the wrong opacity mix.

I have good trigger control and was able to avoid spidering for the most part, until I started using Yupo. The smooth surface made building up in light layers difficult at best. I'm now using the Createx 4011 and 4012 reducers with CI and 4011 only with EFX. The only time I really use water now is for stippling techniques. It allows for a longer drying time and gives me a chance to blot the stippling, which softens the effect.
 
I have good trigger control and was able to avoid spidering for the most part, until I started using Yupo. The smooth surface made building up in light layers difficult at best. I'm now using the Createx 4011 and 4012 reducers with CI and 4011 only with EFX. The only time I really use water now is for stippling techniques. It allows for a longer drying time and gives me a chance to blot the stippling, which softens the effect.
That was my experience with yupo. I do intend to give it a go again now that im using aa reducers. But too many projects, i have to get my self portrait done tonight and start 2 softball helmets, they need to be done before next Saturday, i need 3 days after clear so...
 
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