when using regular createx, as well as using 4030, you can cook a mix that has inconstant viscosity's - like having thick mucus suspended in solution - that will spit as they work their way through the nozzle. Straining makes sure everything is consistent in the cupI'm a bit confused how strainers are gonna work, but ok!
I don’t know for sure, but I don’t think the O rings are anything special. A lot of suppliers seem to charge a huge price for O rings, but I don’t see why they couldn’t be purchased from another source if you know the sizes you need. I might be wrong, but as far as I’m aware it’s only the packing seal that is anything special.Well, I fully disassembled the airbrush, removed the o-rings, and put it in the Restorer. In the process, I discovered that inside the airbrush, just in front of where the cup feeds into it, there was some garbage in there. It's got a yellow/clear hue to it with a gummy texture, which is a lot like the 4030 when it's dried up. I'm thinking maybe a bit of dried 4030 from the cap got into it sometime back. I really need to get those filters, but I do believe the problem is resolved now. letting the other parts soak over night, then I need to put the rings back on and re-assemble it for a test.
If anyone knows where I can get replacement o-rings, would love to know. Doesn't seem that they were damaged when taking them off, but I definitely would like some spares. Paasche doesn't have them on their website, other than a generic pack, which I'm not really sure is for the Talon (I sent them an e-mail. we'll see what they say).
I was wondering about that. thanks.The o-ring between the body and the back cover is the same as the one for the cap....so it is like a spare....
Ok. *now* I'm going to blame the Airbrush. I gave them some leeway with the issue of the cup lid not fitting properly (the cup is either out of round or too small, and customer support said the only way to fix it is to send the airbrush in). I chose, instead, to just deal with it. I need to be doing art, not waiting for USPS or whatever to decide if they want to deliver a box or take lunch, etc.
However, after leaving parts, without o-rings, soaking overnight in Restorer, and getting all the junk out, I re-assembled the aibrush, and....
When pulling back on the trigger to release paint.... the airflow starts to splutter at around 75% back, and at 100% pulled back it outright stops at some points.
What annoys me the most is that it's basically money thrown into the trash. I now have to wait a full week or more, however long it takes to send it in and get it back, and for what? To take a gamble that what they send back will be a functioning product.
At this rate, I might just buy some paint brushes and manually apply the Candy2o.
I re-assembled the aibrush, and....
When pulling back on the trigger to release paint.... the airflow starts to splutter at around 75% back, and at 100% pulled back it outright stops at some points.
.
Testing with water is a great tip I picked up from this very forum. I do this every time I start to paint, just to makes sure the needle is sealing properly and there are no other issues. It’s a really good habit to get into., Dave beat me to it,
Was this with straight water or with the Candy ? When you tear down a brush always test with water before attempting to push paint through it, it will save you wasting paint if you've assembled soemthing wrong and have to tear it down again.