Iwata Custom Micron CM-SB

Mr. Micron, did you buy the Iwata I5352 .23mm Fluid Head System for your Iwata CM-SB .18? Did you have to buy the .23 needle also? Did you have to buy any other part to tranform you .18 in one .23?

Can you use more viscous paints with the .23 set? It was that your reason?

What is the great advantage of this .23 set?

Sorry for soh many questions. I have just bougth my .18 CM-SB. And I would like to not have any disadvantage like avoiding to use one kind of paint, or worst, clogging it.

Thanks in advance.

csdias


 
Mr. Micron, did you buy the Iwata I5352 .23mm Fluid Head System for your Iwata CM-SB .18? Did you have to buy the .23 needle also? Did you have to buy any other part to tranform you .18 in one .23?

Can you use more viscous paints with the .23 set? It was that your reason?

What is the great advantage of this .23 set?

Sorry for soh many questions. I have just bougth my .18 CM-SB. And I would like to not have any disadvantage like avoiding to use one kind of paint, or worst, clogging it.

Thanks in advance.

csdias


I have the Micron CM-C+ gravity feed , it came with the .23 set up and I bought the .18 Head assembly and needle that goes to the SB
But I use Com-art and WICKED. Etac works well in them too.
But if you are unsure of who well a paint will be to use it in , Filter it. Reduce it , You may have to play with the reduction of it to get the best flow from it.
Com-art I use straight out the bottle no reduction at all.
Wicked I run at least a 5 to 1 reduction on the that is 5 drop reducer to 1 drop paint.
 
How often or important is to filter the paint? I have a lot of colors and don't use them very often.

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I mainly use Com-art aswell but I do reduce mine with their medium and then some water as I use very low pressure of about 10-12psi. The thing just keeps ticking and I find less tip dry then my Eclipse. Maybe because the needle is polished, in the factory, not by me, or that is what Com-art is made for. But together, it is a winner.
 
How often or important is to filter the paint? I have a lot of colors and don't use them very often.

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Depends on the paint, I almost never have to filter paint unless I am using urethane.. I always filter it.
 
I mainly use Com-art aswell but I do reduce mine with their medium and then some water as I use very low pressure of about 10-12psi. The thing just keeps ticking and I find less tip dry then my Eclipse. Maybe because the needle is polished, in the factory, not by me, or that is what Com-art is made for. But together, it is a winner.

I have shot com-art straight out the bottle at 3 to 5 PSI and have never had to reduce it. Unless I want a really slow build of the color.
 
Hi I also have bought one cm-sb. But I have never used any airbrush. I read that it is delicate. My question is to transform it in one 0.23 I just have to buy the fluid head system 0.23?
Other question if I buy the PTFE, I will be able to use automotive paints in the 0.23 set?
Bye
 
Hi I also have bought one cm-sb. But I have never used any airbrush. I read that it is delicate. My question is to transform it in one 0.23 I just have to buy the fluid head system 0.23?
Other question if I buy the PTFE, I will be able to use automotive paints in the 0.23 set?
Bye
You just need the .23 head system and the needle
The PTFE is not needed due to it is already in the airbrush. and the shaft size of the needle is the same
 
I have the Micron CM-C+ gravity feed , it came with the .23 set up and I bought the .18 Head assembly and needle that goes to the SB
But I use Com-art and WICKED. Etac works well in them too.
But if you are unsure of who well a paint will be to use it in , Filter it. Reduce it , You may have to play with the reduction of it to get the best flow from it.
Com-art I use straight out the bottle no reduction at all.
Wicked I run at least a 5 to 1 reduction on the that is 5 drop reducer to 1 drop paint.

Would you use Wicked with your 0.18 set? Wicked is solvent base? What is atomization?
Thank you.
 
You just need the .23 head system and the needle
The PTFE is not needed due to it is already in the airbrush. and the shaft size of the needle is the same

Well I guess my needle seal set (CM-SB) is made with rubber not with PTFE :( but I am not sure if it is really necessary to use automotive paints.
 
The teflon seal is inside between the inlet of the colour cup and that big opening in the body, not the one you see when you remove the head.
 
The teflon seal is inside between the inlet of the colour cup and that big opening in the body, not the one you see when you remove the head.

Hi AndreZA, so you are telling that our CM-SB has the teflon seal wich, gives more durability to the seal and mor protection against the solvent base products to the gear pieces?

Do you think its possible use wicked automotive colors with the 0.18 set?

Thank you.
 
To clean the CM-SB after a session of painting? Is it necessary to dissambly it completely?
Your tecnique of using the head´s cap to flush the paint, does not have the danger of throwing paint or solvent base paint to the rear parts of the airbrush?
Thank you
 
Csdias, I've never taken apart but the seal is in there. Otherwise you will get paint in the trigger chamber.

Wicked is waterbased with just a promise of a bit of solvent just to help with the tip dry issues associated with waterbased pints.

If the teflon seal is busted, then you will get paint in the trigger chamber. Otherwise you can backwash as much as you like, you are safe. I use the backwash to mix paint in the cup aswell.
 
Csdias, I've never taken apart but the seal is in there. Otherwise you will get paint in the trigger chamber.

Wicked is waterbased with just a promise of a bit of solvent just to help with the tip dry issues associated with waterbased pints.

If the teflon seal is busted, then you will get paint in the trigger chamber. Otherwise you can backwash as much as you like, you are safe. I use the backwash to mix paint in the cup aswell.

AndreZA, do you thing it's possible to use wicked paint with .018 airbrush?
 
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