Iwata Eclipse 0.2mm??

DaveG and I just spoke and it turns out the head assembly from the Olympos Micron post(the fluid nozzle screws into this) is fractionally shorter. As a result, the nozzle and needle will not work unless you replace the head assembly. To sum up, better get a 3pack of needles from Olympos cuz you gonna need em! I have a set I'll be putting up on eBay as I replaced them with PS770 parts on my SP-B and love the improvement they made.
Regards,
Chris the cabbie
Ok I’ll just keep it as it is then.... I’m not bothered about broken needles, I have a sharpen air and a whole range of sanding/polishing tools so can fix needles in 5 minutes anyways... I had the feeling today that the taper on the needle was a lot longer than the Iwata 0.18mm already. I think this is why you get far less tip dry on it!
 
Are you still using that homemade paint?
The sharpen air gives every needle the same exact taper angle, so your repaired olympos needle wouldn't still have the same taper as I understand it.

Believe what you like about the GSI stuff, I can think of a few people with tons of experience who say they are the same as iwata.
 
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Ok I’ll just keep it as it is then.... I’m not bothered about broken needles, I have a sharpen air and a whole range of sanding/polishing tools so can fix needles in 5 minutes anyways... I had the feeling today that the taper on the needle was a lot longer than the Iwata 0.18mm already. I think this is why you get far less tip dry on it!
I’m also going to try the Eclipse needle in it because that will be a lot stronger and is also an Iwata.
 
Are you still using that homemade paint?
The sharpen air gives every needle the same exact taper anngle, so your repaired olympos needle wouldn't still have the same taper as I understand it.
I’m not too bothered with that, have great results with the SharpenAir so far, I usually bend at least two needles a day so I can’t buy 2-3 new needles every day right?! I’m working on a commission at the moment so I don’t want to do any experimenting with paint on that, just using Golden High Flow.
 
I have a theory as to why you're experiencing more issues with your CM's than with the olympos. It would just be entertainment and might be wrong but I'll share if you want, or not , whichever.
 
I have a theory as to why you're experiencing more issues with your CM's than with the olympos. It would just be entertainment and might be wrong but I'll share if you want, or not , whichever.
Yeah go ahead!
 
I don’t have any issues with the CM-C+ 2 at all though, that works good, the only thing I think the cup is far too big and the MP can paint far thinner lines, far less tip dry and more control in spraying thin layers. I’m very dissatisfied with the CM-SB so far though... i thought it would be a lot better...
I have a theory as to why you're experiencing more issues with your CM's than with the olympos. It would just be entertainment and might be wrong but I'll share if you want, or not , whichever.
’t
 
Photo on 12-18-17 at 10.51 PM.jpg
So this first one would be a brush with the thicker nozzle walls and thus sort of a flat fronted nozzle
Photo on 12-18-17 at 10.52 PM #2.jpg
This one would be the thin nozzle walls of Iwata

The first actually closely resembles a spray gun nozzle, which are designed to optimize atomization. It creates a pocket of turbulence at the needle/nozzle interface. That I think leads to slightly better atomization at the expense of a little bit of detail but also strips the paint off the needle better right there with that swirl so you get that little dry ring at the needle base less often.

The second is designed to strictly to optimize detail and create a more directed airstream right against the needle, at the expense of a tiny amount of atomization. It also creates more of just a small dead zone at the interface where the paint being sucked out has the opportunity for a little bit to just sit there and dry at the base.

Thats my theory anyhow. Seems to hold true in comparing the GSI nozzle to the pz360 nozzle. Though I haven't had the chance to get to test it with a real quality brush with thicker nozzle walls so..... IDK.

Doesn't do much good or provide any remedy...just a theory why.
 
I don’t have any issues with the CM-C+ 2 at all though, that works good, the only thing I think the cup is far too big and the MP can paint far thinner lines, far less tip dry and more control in spraying thin layers. I’m very dissatisfied with the CM-SB so far though... i thought it would be a lot better...

’t
Yeah no Idea on that. I know Dave uses golden a lot and could probably give you suggestions on how to reduce the paint/whether to use some retarder or something like that so the CM-sb would work optimally for you.
 
View attachment 51499
So this first one would be a brush with the thicker nozzle walls and thus sort of a flat fronted nozzle
View attachment 51500
This one would be the thin nozzle walls of Iwata

The first actually closely resembles a spray gun nozzle, which are designed to optimize atomization. It creates a pocket of turbulence at the needle/nozzle interface. That I think leads to slightly better atomization at the expense of a little bit of detail but also strips the paint off the needle better right there with that swirl so you get that little dry ring at the needle base less often.

The second is designed to strictly to optimize detail and create a more directed airstream right against the needle, at the expense of a tiny amount of atomization. It also creates more of just a small dead zone at the interface where the paint being sucked out has the opportunity for a little bit to just sit there and dry at the base.

Thats my theory anyhow. Seems to hold true in comparing the GSI nozzle to the pz360 nozzle. Though I haven't had the chance to get to test it with a real quality brush with thicker nozzle walls so..... IDK.

Doesn't do much good or provide any remedy...just a theory why.
I don’t believe that theory is right because it’s far too complicated and I don’t understand it.
 
LOL. I really don't know, and probably never will since well the only way my theory would matter is if I were going to design a brush from the ground up

I know thats why guns have a flat fronted nozzle, sorta churns the air and paint mixture.
 
Yeah no Idea on that. I know Dave uses golden a lot and could probably give you suggestions on how to reduce the paint/whether to use some retarder or something like that so the CM-sb would work optimally for you.
I don’t really like thinning it because especially with white I need it to cover 100% with the way I work and I don’t want the paint to run either. I started adding a few drops of flow improver by vallejo today as a tip from an airbrush shop owner, that might also be the reason the Olympos performance is bettee. Didn’t even think of that. I still think using the Eclipse needle in the Olympos and vice versa is the best bet so far...
 
LOL. I really don't know, and probably never will since well the only way my theory would matter is if I were going to design a brush from the ground up

I know thats why guns have a flat fronted nozzle, sorta churns the air and paint mixture.

I prefer it to be very sharp though. Looks way cooler
 
I have read that vallejo flow improver is really awesome, for exactly the reasons you're saying. Try that mix on the SB and you'll probably love it more.
 
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I prefer it to be very sharp though. Looks way cooler
You have to magnify the nozzle to see the flat front on the airbrushes. Check out your cheapie nozzles magnified (the one I had said was like a master) vs the Iwata.
Those cheapies can lay some super soft blends, but suffer a little in the fine lines.
 
You have to magnify the nozzle to see the flat front on the airbrushes. Check out your cheapie nozzles magnified (the one I had said was like a master) vs the Iwata.
Those cheapies can lay some super soft blends, but suffer a little in the fine lines.
I got one of these digital microscopes I can hook up to my Mac, 1000x enlargement, works great!
 
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