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Iwata HP-CS and pancake compressor

Discussion in 'Beginners Airbrush Questions!' started by Jake10, Mar 18, 2019.


  1. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Hi all, first post here. I have the HP-CS and want to use my pancake compressor. After doing a lot of reading, it looks like I need a moisture trap and air regulator for it to work with my airbrush. I have read that I can connect my current compressor hose to compressor (set at around 60 psi), then connect the moisture trap and regulator (set psi to 20 or so), then connect airbrush hose and then finally to the airbrush. Does this look correct?

    Also, is there a recommendation on an inexpensive but quality moisture trap and air regulator combo? Thank you.
  2. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA QuickDraw and very happy #nobrushleftbehind Staff Member Mod

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  3. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for the reply. I posted in the Intro forum :)

    Any suggestions on a moisture trap and air regulator?
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  4. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    If you already have a pressure regulator on your compressor then you can just attach the airbrush hose straight to that if you have the compressor nearby, you'll need an adaptor to fit your current hose > aircompressor.
    you can get the 'pistol grip' moisture filter at the airbrush end.
    For airbrushing needs, there are multiple choices for filters / regulators, I cant recommend any particular retailers / links because we have no idea where you live :)

    The psi should set with the air 'on' on the airbrush to give a true reading of what pressure you are spraying.

    dependant on what paint you are using and what you are spraying onto your general psi wont be more that 30psi (textiles you'll need to go up to ~50psi)

    [​IMG]
    J000seph, SiRoxx and markjthomson like this.
  5. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for the reply. Since I am brand new to airbrushing, the paint I am using is enamel, I believe. I plan on using the airbrush to do some detail work, like masking, on 3d prints. Are all the moisture traps the same or are there some that most swear by?
  6. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    If you plan on using enamels then make sure you have a good mask to protect your lungs and you’ll need some appropriate thinners to clean your brush afterwards. Enamels aren’t very forgiving in airbrushes and are painful when dry.
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
  7. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    If my current project is completely painted in enamel and I want to use the airbrush to do some detailed masking painting, do I have to use enamel? If not, what else could I use? Thanks.
  8. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    before you worry about the sequence you lay down the paint I'd respectfully suggest you find a test panel / board / miniature and practise your detail skills,
    Its not as easy as you may think it is to airbrush detail.

    Do you have a picture of what you want to acheive or a picture of what you are planning on painting ?
    'detailed masking painting' is not really giving me a mental picture of what you are trying to acheive.
    You can use waterbased paint over the enamel but I suspect you are use to using a hairy brush and having a solid colour straight away, airbrushing doesnt work that way. even using an opaque paint you will need multiple layers to acheive a 'solid' colour.

    for an airbrush you wont need a professional grade spray gun filter, most of the 'airbrush moisture traps' are very similar in their effectiveness, it comes down to personal preference to where you want it..... pistol grip, in line are all popular.
  9. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Jack, thanks for the reply. Sorry for not giving enough details of what I am trying to do. I am working on a 3D printed helmet that, so far, I've primed and painted. I painted it with white gloss spray can and have some black detail areas that I need to do next. I plan on masking off some of the white (already painted) areas and using an airbrush to paint the smaller, detailed areas.

    Because the white gloss spray can was enamel, I'm not sure what type of paint I should I to do the black areas. The helmet I am working on is a First Order storm trooper helmet from Ep VII.
  10. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    No problem with the whole 'not giving enough detail' thing..... thats the joy of starting out, you never know how much info to give or what type of info is needed.

    the first thing I'd be testing is the masking tape on the helmet.... make sure the paint has stuck. Find a spot and test the tape, make sure the edges are well adhered and then carefully pull it off. Your normal beige masking tape is NOT what you need for a job like this, you wont get a clean edge and it will leave glue residue.
    Painters tapes will give you a better edge and are low tack so they're less likely to pull the paint off the model. If you plan on doing more of these sorts of things then its worth investing in the 'proper' tapes.

    so this is what you'll be working on ?
    upload_2019-3-19_9-40-58.png
  11. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    if what you are using is working (sticking to the model) then thats a start, many paints stuggle to stick without a lot of prep / adhesion promoter/ primer etc.
    I'm pretty sure you can use any paint on top of the enamel....
    @Robbyrockett2 may be able to help here..... I'm not sure why your name popped into my head Robby.... I may be way of track thinking you can assist
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  12. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Jack, that is exactly the helmet I am working on. I used multiple costs of filler primer that I sanded. Then I have out on a few coats of the white gloss spray can enamel paint, the entire helmet is white right now.

    Painter's tape is the blue stuff right? What type of paint would you suggest to go over the white gloss and cover it in the black areas?
  13. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    I’ve no experience with enamels but my gut says stick with enamel.
    This is why I tagged Robbie.. he’s our ‘chemist’ lol
    And yes, the painters tape is blue. Just make sure the edge is firmly attached, don’t lay down the paint to heavy at the tape edge or you’ll get an edge on the paint.
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  14. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    Jackie and Mark gave you some great starting points.
    I'd go with green painters tape over blue, it's better. Although with the complexity of your edges I'd probably be doing fine line tape then regular masking tape. You run the fine line then slap the masking tape over top then cut it with a razor over the fineline tape and pull off what you don't need.

    Just avoid lacquer over your enamel.

    Any airbrush paint like wicked is probably going to work best. For two or three reasons.

    1. Without any AB experience it's always best to start with, it takes the guessing out of " Is this me, or my equipment"

    2. Even avoiding lacquer, some paint brands are either going to not adhere as well as they could or run the risk of being too "hot" or otherwise just not greatly compatible. Wicked is nearly inert yet pretty tenacious.

    3. A final clear coat would be required with wicked, but not further enamels. That sounds like a disadvantage but it's not. You'll be more motivated to clear coat if you have to and if you just used more enamel it's likely to get chipped. Plus it's much harder to spray on thin as you approach taped edges and still get it to flow out smooth.

    The downside is it's several extra steps, especially if you want gloss white/satin black. In which case you'll be masking off twice, once to get black and clear it, once a hair into the black to gloss clear your white.
    If you go with more enamel I'd just decant some from a spray can through a straw to airbrush with but be doubly sure it is in fact enamel.


    It doesn't sound likely you'll 2k clear so I'll recommend rust oleum 2x clear. Its pretty awesome as far as spray can clear goes. Just do some practice pieces , it levels out slowly so it can be tempting to go too thick and end up with solvent bubbles.
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  15. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Wow, excellent post. Thank you so much. I've been told about Vallejo paints, are they good quality? I ordered a Paasche R-75 tosay so looking forward to it showing up. Now I just need an airbrush hose and I'll be all set.

    Edit: The Vallejo set is acrylic, would that matter if airbrushing over a spray can enamel?
  16. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    Damn near all modern paint of any kind is acrylic, including the spray acrylic enamel you based it with.
    It will be fine, Vallejo is another very inert paint.
    I haven't used Vallejo, a lot of people do for little models.
    It would probably fall into the should probably get clear coated too range on a helmet though.
    You could always go without and touch up and clear later if you find it scratching too easy.
  17. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    Robbyrockett2, I am at a local Pat Catans looking at their selection of acrylic paints. They have Golden High Flow Acrylics and Amsterdam All Acrylics. They both show they they are made for airbrushing, brush, pen, etc. Are these good brands to start with? Also are they 'airbrush ready', no thinning or anything required? Being a beginner, I would guess that the paints that don't need thinned would be best. Thanks.
  18. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    They're great but more for artwork, I don't really know of anybody who uses them for hard surface work. So I couldn't tell you how they do.

    Vallejo model air
    Testors aztek
    Wicked

    Are all probably more oriented toward your project.

    Aztek is ready to spray.
    I think the other two are " ready to spray " for an hp-cs too though a little thinning will likely be needed in reality with those two.
  19. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    most of the time it seems that 'ready to spray' is aimed at larger nozzles with higher pressure.
  20. Jake10

    Jake10 Young Tutorling

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    What would the Iwata Hp-CS be considered? Smaller nozzle?

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