Iwata hp-cs eclipse trigger action

[lejo69]

Hi.
When trying to do fine details with my AB i need to pull further back on my trigger than what i would expect. The needle and nozzle is in good order. So, is this common on hp-cs and i just have to get used to it?

Brgs Leif, Norway

 

[Kingpin]

Has it always been like this or is just now starting to play up? Have You tried thinning the paint/playing around with the air pressure?

I am sure someone with knowledge of the CS will be along shortly to help out

 

[lejo69]

Hi. Thanks for the reply. No, i guess it has always been like this. Tried different mix with thinner and pressure. Had to get muscle memory when the head says enogh anf the trigger requires more. Just wondering if this is normal action with this type AB. If so, i might get me another.

 

[Kingpin]

I dont own the CS but I am sure there are members who do and will be able to advise better than I can, Maybe @DaveG or @2Diverse may know

 

[Mr.Micron]

The CS comes with a .35 nozzle set up. If you haven't soaked the nozzle to remove all the dried paint that builds up from just painting then the trigger will have to move back further to allow paint to flow, Depending on what paint you're using is what you can soak the nozzle in.
Yes fine lines can be pulled with a CS (not so much micro detail) But the cleaner the inside of the nozzle the less you'll have to pull back for paint flow.
It is the same pretty much for any airbrush.

 

[DaveG]

The CS is capable of doing very fine detail. It is just a matter of learning to understand the brush. One thing you have not mentioned is what type of paint you are using, not the type of air pressure you are trying to work at. Both important factors. Some paints have higher surface tensions than others, so tend to be more "grippy" when trying to come through the brush. In order to pull fine lines, the paint needs to be both thin, and free flowing. It needs to be reduced properly to work at the pressure range you are trying to work at. I would bet that the issues you are experiencing will be related to the paint, not the brush, when we get it all figured out.

 

[lejo69]

Thanks all. I am using triden paints at pressures gping from 14-20 psi pending on blends. I use brushes for cleaning but will for sure try and soak the nozzle. Haven’t tried that. A do struggle a bit on thinning but do get fairly good results most of the time. Details like hairline or thin daggestrokes are challenging.

 

[DaveG]

Trident paints are not very common here, so I have not worked with them - there are two lines, solvent and water base, right? You are using? Honestly, that air pressure is a bit low also - unless you are really (over)reducing your paint.

 

[lejo69]

Trident paints are not very common here, so I have not worked with them - there are two lines, solvent and water base, right? You are using? Honestly, that air pressure is a bit low also - unless you are really (over)reducing your paint.

They are waterbased. Available to me over here but thinking about trying out createx. What pressures are you using? I’m i my learning process. Have figured out greyscale sculls and portraits. Now i’m trying to master more realistic portraits.

 

[DaveG]

Waterbased paints can at times have high surface tension properties, wanting to stick to every surface they get near. Most acrylic lines of paints also offer a flow improver, or a release agent which gets added to water then used to help reduce the paint in the brush. They work by reducing the paints natural surface tension, allowing them to flow easier through the small spaces of the airbrush without wanting to grab on every surface nthe way out.

I would try working with the trident more, before switching brands - as you may wind up starting all over again only to find you are experiencing the same difficulties. Createx (especially the illustration colors) are great for airbrush, but they too have their own set of challenges to learn and overcome.

With the trident, I would try adding a few more drops of reducer, or water to the color cup, and test. Add a few more drops and test, repeat until you achieve a mix that seems to work at the air pressure you want... I generally keep my compressor set to 35 - 40 psi, but do use a MAC valve on my hose when doing detailed work. Crazy as it sounds, sometimes it is easier to get fine details by keeping the paint thick, but using higher air pressure to draw it out of the brush. Practice, practice, practice along with test, test, test, to find what works best for what you are working with.

 

[lejo69]

Waterbased paints can at times have high surface tension properties, wanting to stick to every surface they get near. Most acrylic lines of paints also offer a flow improver, or a release agent which gets added to water then used to help reduce the paint in the brush. They work by reducing the paints natural surface tension, allowing them to flow easier through the small spaces of the airbrush without wanting to grab on every surface nthe way out.

I would try working with the trident more, before switching brands - as you may wind up starting all over again only to find you are experiencing the same difficulties. Createx (especially the illustration colors) are great for airbrush, but they too have their own set of challenges to learn and overcome.

With the trident, I would try adding a few more drops of reducer, or water to the color cup, and test. Add a few more drops and test, repeat until you achieve a mix that seems to work at the air pressure you want... I generally keep my compressor set to 35 - 40 psi, but do use a MAC valve on my hose when doing detailed work. Crazy as it sounds, sometimes it is easier to get fine details by keeping the paint thick, but using higher air pressure to draw it out of the brush. Practice, practice, practice along with test, test, test, to find what works best for what you are working with.

Thank you all for valuable advice