Iwata question

[Diegojavbau]

I seeing for a new brush (I own a revolution) , go with iwata again is one choice.

Can someone tell me the difference between the Hi-line , Kustmom and Micron lines ? pricess increase a lot between lines ?
There must be a reason beside the quality build , all look great to me and very similar ...

I'm selling a guitar yhat I don't use anymore , so probably I will not have this amount of money to spend in an AB again so It must be a lifetime desicion , not "buy this one and then go to ..."

Renegade Krome is another option , with which Iwata line can be compared ?

 

[nicholasanthony]

I just bought a renegade Krome and I love it. I have a iwata kustom eclipse that I bought as my first airbrush I have definately got my moneys worth.
From my understanding and experience the hi line and kustom lines are similar and both offer a range of tip sizes and side/gravity/ siphon feeds. The Micron series is focused on getting the finest lines and smallest detail. I am under the impression that the Kusom micron CM is the best airbrush on the market. Some may differ but it seems almost everyone published owns this brush..
Best brush for the money- Badger Renegade Krome. ($125 U.S)
Best brush -Micron CM ($550 U.S.)
If it were me and I was only going to buy one for the rest of my life ....Micron - you already have a revolution for larger works.

 

[wmlepage]

ThE Kustom series is basically just the regular brushes with a large cup and a Mac valve. I have a High line CH, it's just a C+ with a built in Mac valve. The Micron is a league of its own, you have to replace the head system for good alignment, not just the nozzle if damaged. And it's about $130 USD. The Highline parts are about $30 for a nozzle and $11 for a needle.

The Micron in the Mac daddy of airbrushes for a reason. Also why it costs so darn much. If you want close comparison, a Badger Krome is supposed to be almost as good, at 1/4 the price and parts are cheap.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[jagardn]

Diego, Consistency wise, I would go with a Hi-Line or High Performance model. Depending on what you want for cup size/type.
If I had to do it all over again, I would have bought the HP-C Plus instead of the HP-CH, because I don't use my MAC valve. I have the external one I use for all my brushes.
After using my HP-CH more, it is gaining ground as my favorite airbrush. I love my Krome, but if I am attempting photorealistic paintings, the trigger is a bit too sensitive to pull off real subtle fades/tints.
Just my opinion.

 

[Mr.Micron]

The main thing on the Micron is the larger chamber that allows more atomization of the paint which give better performance at super low pressure.
It is also one of the most costly airbrushes to not only buy but to replace parts on too.
I own a Micron CM-C+ and I have compared it with the Badger Krome. as far as super fine detail it is hard to really tell a difference.
Mainly it is up to you and how much money you have to spend.
But it is not the airbrush that makes the artist great , It is a great artist that learns how to use his airbrush .

 

[Squishy]

Wise words Herb, wise words. While I'm far from getting anywhere even close to my airbrushing idols, the more I use my lowly hp-cs, the more I can get out of it.

 

[Diegojavbau]

Thanks to all for the advices !!!! thanks for share your exprience with me.

Herb I read your comparision post a lot of times , but I'm a victim of publicity , I know that the difference between Krome and Micron is not as big to justify the price defference , but all my idols tell every video how they love their Micron and that got me hooked .

I have time to think about it just because I don't have enogh money yet , here in Argentina 500 dolars is really big money

 

[jagardn]

Thanks to all for the advices !!!! thanks for share your exprience with me.

Herb I read your comparision post a lot of times , but I'm a victim of publicity , I know that the difference between Krome and Micron is not as big to justify the price defference , but all my idols tell every video how they love their Micron and that got me hooked .

I have time to think about it just because I don't have enogh money yet , here in Argentina 500 dolars is really big money

I'm pretty much in the same boat Diego. I look at the Microns at least once a week on the Iwata and Coast Airbrush websites. When I test all 3 of my brushes side by side, I talk myself out of buying one.

Here is an example of a test spray I did tonight with a Krome and Wicked Detail Black

 

[HCP-draggin]

When comparing other airbrushes to microns, you have to remember that there's more to a micron than fine lines. The head unit, as Mr. Micron pointed out, has an extra air chamber and baffle system that allows the air pressure to move around the nozzle as evenly as possible. This has a number of advantages. One being that you can run super-low pressures without sputtering and spitting. Also, it atomizes the paint better than a "normal" head system, which means a good, very soft, very controllable spray all the way through the trigger action. Airbrushes like the Mojo's or the Krome can get very fine detail, but tend to not work as well through the rest of the spraying range. And, yes, a new head unit for a micron costs $120 or so. But, I've yet to have to change a head unit, nozzle, needle, or any other part of any of my microns. Iwata uses a "super alloy" for the nozzles, which seem to last damn near forever, as well as high-quality steel for their needles, which means less tip-bending. I don't mean to demean other airbrushes, or people that use and like them. If what you have works, great! Use it! BUT, saying a Krome is just as good as a micron is like saying a '98 Camaro is just as good as a Porsche 911. Sure, it might give it a run for it's money on a drag strip, but if you're using a 911 just for drag racing, you're missing out on 90% of what the car can really do.

 

[HCP-draggin]

I seeing for a new brush (I own a revolution) , go with iwata again is one choice.

Can someone tell me the difference between the Hi-line , Kustmom and Micron lines ? pricess increase a lot between lines ?
There must be a reason beside the quality build , all look great to me and very similar ...

I'm selling a guitar yhat I don't use anymore , so probably I will not have this amount of money to spend in an AB again so It must be a lifetime desicion , not "buy this one and then go to ..."

Renegade Krome is another option , with which Iwata line can be compared ?

If you want the best airbrush you can get, and one that will last a career, check out the Olympos MP200 series microns. Everything that makes the Iwata microns great are just a bit better on the Olympos MP's. They ARE expensive, and the only way I know of currently to get one is to import it directly from Japan. They run about $550 USD, but do also come with a spare head unit, some lube, thread sealer, and some other extras. If that's just too much money, an Iwata micron is definitely a great "2nd choice". There isn't a "top of the line" micron, per se. The "Kustom" model is the most expensive, but it's just a CM-C+ with an extra large paint cup and a taller trigger. And some pretty sweet packaging. My personal preference is the CM-SB. One nice bonus, if you want a larger color cup, the Aztek cups will fit, come in a variety of sizes, and are dirt cheap. So you can have a larger color cup without a giant chrome color cup sitting right on top of your airbrush. If a micron isn't an option, my next best recommendation would be an Olympos HP100-B. I use mine nearly as much as I use my microns. Again, genuine Olympos parts are a bit pricey, and have to come straight from Japan (or, in this case, a couple of European suppliers). But, both Iwata HP-B and Grex XN parts will fit. The Grex parts don't last as long, but do work well. I'd put the H&S Infinity as a somewhat distant 4th. They work well, especially when new, but the parts don't hold up very well, and the nickel finish is prone to tarnishing. So, don't buy one on looks, and plan on replacing nozzles and needles regularily.

 

[Diegojavbau]

Thanks HPC-draggin !!!!
It's all said about technical aspects , can't be more clear

 

[donec]

I'm pretty much in the same boat Diego. I look at the Microns at least once a week on the Iwata and Coast Airbrush websites. When I test all 3 of my brushes side by side, I talk myself out of buying one.

Here is an example of a test spray I did tonight with a Krome and Wicked Detail Black

View attachment 17861

That is awesome. Did you do anything extra to smooth out the shadow around the eye to get that smooth of a shadow or did the brush just spray that smooth?

 

[jagardn]

That is awesome. Did you do anything extra to smooth out the shadow around the eye to get that smooth of a shadow or did the brush just spray that smooth?

The detail capability of all 3 brushes in my signature are capable of that or better.
My mixture was 50/50 Wicked Detail Black/Trans base, then thinned until I could pull real tight detail. Probably 10:1 - 15:1(maybe greater)
Each line and Eyelash in the darkest areas was gone over multiple times, the shadow above the eye was 2-3 passes and the grey area was 1-2 passes at further distance.
If I messed around with the ratios more, it could be made to look even more smooth with sharp dagger strokes, I just happened to see this thread and was practicing, so I decided to take a pic.

 

[bentoad]

I agree with Everything that has been said . But Squishy has a point if you mix your paintand practice. you can get lot out of your krome. There is some excellent work done with a Krome and their service is superb.bentoad

 

[denstore]

One thing that doesn't come up that much in discussions about the "detail best airbrush" is size. In my opinion, most people would be better of with a short airbrush, with as small cup as possible for detailing, instead of staring at nozzle size figures. First rule of fine detail is getting close.

 

[ad fez]

I'm not trying to be funny denstore not at all, but seeing as though the paint comes out of the front of the brush don't you think the length is kind of irrelevant......I mean...I'm pretty sure I could get the same dot size from a brush 100mm long with a 0.2 nozzle as I could a brush 1000mm long with same nozzle size......I understand on a brush that is maybe an inch longer than normal your hand/trigger finger would be half inch further back, and this may take a little extra control, but still feel I would fare better with longer brush and smaller nozzle than short brush with large nozzle I use my left hand for, controlling front of brush and minute directional control....I'm sure some of the pros would disagree with me but in my book nozzle size is the primary factor (once optimum paint reduction and air pressure have been learnt) in achieving fine detail

 

[ad fez]

Likewise though, just my opinion an no offense meant at all

 

[AndreZA]

Ad Fez, have you tried writing while holding a pencil st the back instead of the front? The closer you are to the front the more control you have. Yes is will also make a difference what size tip but that regulates spray pattern, not control.

 

[denstore]

Ad Fez, have you tried writing while holding a pencil st the back instead of the front? The closer you are to the front the more control you have. Yes is will also make a difference what size tip but that regulates spray pattern, not control.

My point exactly. Even half an inch is quite a lot when it comes to fine control. And that control might be essential, when you try too keep your airbrush a millimetre from the object. Add to that the lower weight and better balance of the shorter bodied small cup airbrushes. In my opinion the difference of working with my MP-200A and a CM-C+ is like day and night. No way I ever will get a CM-C+ again. It's the worst micron I've owned. And I have tried all, except for the standard CM-C.
Same about the Badger Krome compared to the Sotar. Why would I get a big and clumsy airbrush for details, when I could get an airbrush designed for details. The Sotar would be my choice for detail every day of the week.

 

[jagardn]

Ad Fez, have you tried writing while holding a pencil st the back instead of the front? The closer you are to the front the more control you have. Yes is will also make a difference what size tip but that regulates spray pattern, not control.

I understand what you mean with it, but holding a pencil at the back end and the front is a real large distance. Drawing tight detail with a pencil is controlled with the fingers more than the wrist, where the airbrush uses more of the elbows or wrist. If true that being very close to the front of the airbrush gave better control, I would think the detail brushes, like the Micron SB would have the trigger in front of the cup. Just my thoughts on it.