K33 vs regular needle - real world difference?

I tried only polishing with hand :D
I am so noob -.- What kinda paste do you use? Videos are always welcomed, you didn't even needed to ask that. Video please :laugh:

lol... I need to polish a couple of needles this weekend. I'll take a couple of video clips ;-)

I use the same dremel paste that is in the kit you posted. #421 paste.
It's the only one i've tried and it works for me... but maybe someone knows of something better?
 
lol... I need to polish a couple of needles this weekend. I'll take a couple of video clips ;-)

I use the same dremel paste that is in the kit you posted. #421 paste.
It's the only one i've tried and it works for me... but maybe someone knows of something better?
weekend come fast please :laugh:
 
100 euros is a lot for a needle. I am just reading that thread which Jackie linked. Diamond polish looks good.

Edit: I take this back. Just noticed post where Vladimir sad diamond paste is a no go :laugh:


Diamond paste will be fine. The issue he sees is that bits of the grit can theoretically become embedded in the steel and cause wear on the nozzle. Thing is, that the titanium pigment in white, and the cobalt in some blues an greens is larger and harder than than the grit in the "diamond paste" and are more likely to become embedded and already will cause more nozzle wear than any remnant from your polishing paste. Considering that they are blown by at high speed much more regularly than any polishing paste, I think you're safe. Also, even if they did embed, they are so small that even under a microscope they wouldn't amount to anything more than metal discoloration at the scale involved.

The truth is, you don't need to even go that far. You don't need it mirror smooth at 1000x magnification. It makes virtually no difference if you just polish with silvo or car finishing polish. Cheaper and easier to get. All you are trying to do is minimize tip dry, and improve flow, and you don't need anything lab grade to get there.

The difference in performance you'd get with cheap metal polish from the hardware store and something like 100,000 grit diamond paste would never be noticeable. Even the cheap jewelers paste I use to finish is more for style than substance, I will admit.
 
Oh, one other thing I do to keep my angle on the needles.... I have a micro chuck for my dremmel that fits airbrush needles just fine. So I use that to turn the needle while supporting and polishing by holding my shammy with the paste applied to the end. Always support a turning needle end if you go that way to prevent it from wobbling out, and bending the needle. Also, wear eye protection. If you happen to lose control, or don't have something tightened right, you don't want a high speed needle or bit of paste flying into your eye. Safety first!
 
Great thread Husky! This is an interesting read as I’ve wondered a lot of these things myself.
some cool info in this thread indeed. And shame on you Siroxx. You had questions and you didn't ask. :rolleyes:
 
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I didn't change that smiley in your quote Kim. This is getting weird. :sus: I know last time, SiRoxx was editing my quotes :)

Ok, Procon make sense now. I thought we have another brand which I don't know :D
 
Before I check your link Jackie, got another weird question. I noticed on picture add for difference between k33 and regular. So if you bend needle can sharpen air fix it back? The reason I am asking this is, cause it looks like sharpen air would destroy that nice ''polish microscope add look'' on that k33.

Yes you can repair the tip of the needle after an accident, However, when you use the sharpenair on it you will remove the coating where you have ground it and basically make it back into a normal needle. The K33 needles have a coating on them which is what stops the paint sticking and creates the smooth surface. If it gets damaged the needle is not going to work as a K33 should.

Lee
 
I use Solvol Autosol chrome polish for the initial polish. Using a cordless drill with a polishing end. You could use a dremel with a polishing pad but don't put the needle in the dremel.. I did it ONCE and it flew out and stuck in the floor ruining the needle.

After the initial polish I keep it good by using some 2500, 3000 and 6000 grit polishing cloth I was given. Just dragging across the cloth, rolling it in your fingers as you pull. I don't know what brand the cloth is that I have but 3M do a product called Trizact which you can get in various grits up to 6000 which would work just as well.

I did consider buying a K33 needle and Black devil cap but couldn't justify the cost. I only get tip dry with some createx paints and Inspire solvent white and black so not really needed as I hardly use them. I don't get any tip dry with the paints I've been using, etac efx, airbrush academy series and liquitex inks.

So I buy the needles for the PS 270 for my HP-B+, PS77o needles for the Micron SB and cheap Fengda crown caps which I use a dremel to grind it into the 2 prong cap.

Lee
 
I know @Dimitris ordered some. I wonder which ones and how long they are.

Imagine 1 crown cup 1 buck...It would be weird to order just one. Probably 10 is more likely.
 
Just as good as any other cheap cap. It will do the same job. Check the shipping to your place before you buy anything as it may end up more expensive.

Lee
Nah it's cheap. I know the guy. We talked a lot, cause he was looking for a distributor in my country one year ago. Probably the cheapest shipping I ever got airbrush related. Considering I could get 2o crown caps for one iwata...

But I was wondering. If they fit on micron , do they fit on hp or eclipse? Are threads all the same for those airbrushes? Cause I already have 2 x dremmel ones at home which I made for eclipse but I don't use them. Also where does the needle stick out more... I would like for my needle to be hiding a little inside. 1-2 millimeters would be nice.
 
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