Lacquer question.

S

silversson

Guest
Hello professional or otherwise seasoned Airbrushers :)

Last Christmas I tried to paint some NERF guns for my nephews as a present. Tune the spring a bit and remove any air restrictions and so on to give then a custom coolest present ever.
All worked nicely the guns turned out great and kids loved them and moms hated them and me :D

But now I see that the paint chips off easily. Even with just using my nail I can peal it off.

I used Vallejo paints. First a primer and then the color and on top of that 3 coats of varnish.

What kind of Lacquer and paint combination would you guys recommend?
Can I shoot any kinds of car lacquers through my airbrush or is there a recommended one?
 
I am sure others will chime in, I would think they were plastic? Did you use an adhesion promoter? I have heard you should use that on plastic.
 
Bulldog adhesion promoter work great on all plastic surfaces ,
But what exactly it chipping off ? Is it just chipping through the Lacquer or is it shipping down to the plastic.
With nerf guns I can see them being tossed about and dropped So like any paint job it will get chips in it from use.
As far as shooting lacquer through you airbrush yes you can shoot lacquer paints through them . I use a mini spray gun for laying on clear to get even coats ,
 
The layer beneath the layer you can peel of is the problem so if the paint comes of the paint doesn't adhere to the primer and there is no problem with the varnish but a problem with the adhesion to the primer.

I've never seen that myself normaly it's either the clear that doesn't adhere to the paint or the surface wasn't prepperd correctly and all comes off. You might try scuffing the primer a tad or use another primer.
 
Ok thanks for the tip on the Adhesion promoter.

So the paint peals off until the plastic. Adhision promoter might work. I'll try out that. And some lacquer.
 
Oh yes the Primer is also pealing off.

I did wash them with mild dish washing solution and then rinsed them thoroughly. Used glows all the time while handling then to avoid finger grease.
I'll add the Adhesion promoter to the primer and hope it will be better.
 
I have never used primer on plastic. I just scuff and paint. I have never had any problems. I might just be lucky so far
After using soap and rinsing, I always used a wax and grease remover. Did you scuff before priming? Sounds like the primer had nothing to adhere to.
 
Vallejo paints are very fragile. I plan on elaborating on this on my model paints guide when I get to Vallejo. :)
 
I've found that, particolarly on auto types of plastic, you really have to use an adhesion promoter
or else the primer and paint layers just slide right off.
Also, as mentioned earlier, scuffing with some 3M scotchbrite pads or similar will give
your primer something to grab onto.
This in turn, makes a base for your colour and top coats, whatever they may be.
Remember that the better your base the better the finish will be.
 
Wont scuffing show on the surface after painting?


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Hey silversson. After your adhesion promotor (plastic primer) you spray a ms primer (filler primer) wait till it's dry and flat with p600 wet paper. No scratches will be visible.


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There are many types of plastic, all react differently, especially recycled plastics, in the auto trade we have to use a number of processes to battle the adhesion.

As mentioned scuff the surface slightly, with a scotchbright, don't go to mad a nice even key is fine.

Apply your adhesion promoter/plastic primer, depending on the product , a 20min flash time is often required. Check!!

If you are using a solvent based paint, you can apply this now, but ideally a good primer would be used especially if your using water based paint, a lot of people don't understand that standard solvent adhesion promoters DO NOT WORK with water based paint, hence why we use the primer ( prep the primer and the paint will key to that as the primer has keyed to the plastic due to the adhesion promoter.

I wouldn't advise adding the promoter to the primer unless the product tech sheet says you can

Hope this helps
 
The layer you put over the scuffed surface fills in any of the imperfections caused by the LIGHT scuffing done to it,
hence the need for light, controlled scuffing - use care, not elbow grease when approaching your panel.
When you have new plastic the surface is SMOOTH and SHINY.[Unless it has a mottled or bubbled surface, of course.]
You just want to make it look dull and matt finished, not rough and ragged.
 
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