Limited Budget for Paint

A few drops is exactly that, a couple of small drops from a dropper bottle. if you think that an A cup (the brush with just a cutout in the body, no actual cup on it) holds about .7 max depending on brush then the max I use is about .2ml if that :thumbsup:
Yeah, I usually dump more than I spray. When I grab the Aerograph 93 or HP-AH, theres more paint of the Q-tip cleaning it than on the model. If I filled that void on an A, I'd be bored out of my skull before I got halfway through it.
 
4004 transparent base for wicked / wicked detail is also worth considering. (think of it as colourless paint) its helps when you first start out. I think we all went 'too dark too quick' when we began so by using the transparent base you use less colour so you'll need more passes to go real dark. It's also generally a little cheaper than the paint.
general guide for most of the createx is a combination of paint and reducer, (yes, even when they claim 'can be used straight from the bottle' - which can be true for the larger nozzle sizes. )
depending on which needle size you are using a ratio of 1:1 and a pressure of 25psi is a great starting point. If you want to utilise the trans base then just think of the trans base as paint so it would be 1:1:2 (paint:trans:reducer)
So you can see by doing this you are actually using less paint :)
As said above, you don't fill the cup and once you do start painting you'll learn very quickly just how little paint you actually need.
oh, and don't ever put mixed paint back into the bottle. once its mixed it has a shelf life - depending on who you ask it could be anywhere from a week to 6 months, its very much dependant on your environment and how much additive you have put in.
 
I just got the small Wicked 2 oz. opaque starter set with black, white, primaries, and 4011 reducer. They are pretty tiny, so it's good to hear how little is actually needed. The hard surface data sheet indicates that I should start with the Autoborne Sealer as a base coat for aluminum surfaces. Does that sound about right? Also, I can't seem to find any recommendations for a clear sealer coat. Do you guys have any ideas?
 
After further research, I am reading a lot about 2k clear coat finishes. For aluminum housed electronics, that will get a lot of foot traffic, as some of mine are designed for, should i use a 2k finish product?
 
painting on a hard surface is an experience. there is nothing for the paint to hold onto.
give it a light scuff with a scotch pad, you can either use a coloured or transparent sealer - a coloured sealer that is close to your base colour will mean you need less layers of paint to get a good colour.
you can add UVLS Gloss to your paint which will make it almost bulletproof and if you are really concerned then you can certainly add a layer of 2k clear over the top.
I've had issues with 4030 in the past and won't ever use it again, but I've heard they've fixed the problems they've had with it but for now the UVLS Gloss does everything I need it to do.

You'll go through more paint when you first start, mainly because you have very little idea what you are doing, all perfectly normal. You'll learn to better guesstimate how much paint to put in the cup. I generally don't have more than 1/3rd of a C cup, most of the time it's even less.
 
painting on a hard surface is an experience. there is nothing for the paint to hold onto.
give it a light scuff with a scotch pad, you can either use a coloured or transparent sealer - a coloured sealer that is close to your base colour will mean you need less layers of paint to get a good colour.
you can add UVLS Gloss to your paint which will make it almost bulletproof and if you are really concerned then you can certainly add a layer of 2k clear over the top.
I've had issues with 4030 in the past and won't ever use it again, but I've heard they've fixed the problems they've had with it but for now the UVLS Gloss does everything I need it to do.

You'll go through more paint when you first start, mainly because you have very little idea what you are doing, all perfectly normal. You'll learn to better guesstimate how much paint to put in the cup. I generally don't have more than 1/3rd of a C cup, most of the time it's even less.
After reading your response, watching a few videos, and some other research, I don't think I'll use the 4030, but instead use 4050. As far as a final clear coat, I am going to hold off, at least for now. I can wait till after I have some experience with everything. By the way, thanks for the advice.
 
After reading your response, watching a few videos, and some other research, I don't think I'll use the 4030, but instead use 4050. As far as a final clear coat, I am going to hold off, at least for now. I can wait till after I have some experience with everything. By the way, thanks for the advice.
Try the 4050 as the final coat if you are buying it anyway, find a scrap bit of metal to do a test spray on, use the sealer/ paint:4050/ top coat of 4050. then once you give it a day or two to fully cure you can then test its resilience to wear and tear. you may not need the 2K
 
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