lots of air no paint :o(

I use dental brushes. I use rubbing alcohol and an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. A brush shouldn't hurt your nozzle unless you're forcing it through the small end. Just use your common sense, it's a weak piece of metal...


Sorry and with all due respect, but using bristle brushes is not the best method of cleaning your airbrush. the slightest microscopic scratch on sealed surface can cause bad sealing and erratic airbrush performance. Of the service work we do at Badger the most difficult to correct problem is airbrushes that have been cleaned with denatl tools or airbrush cleaning kits as we have to restore and repolish the scratched surfaces so the seal is good again. Trust me you may not see the effect the first few times you use bristle burshes to clean you airbrush, but eventually the scratched surface you are creating will cause erratic airbrush spray - usually presenting in a pulsating spray pattern.

Additionally, make sure all paint is out of your airbrush before introducing alcohol as alcohol and paint can become quite gummy when mixed - especially if using water-based acrylics.

The real key to keeping your airbrush clean is to not let paint set up (dry) in it. This is best done by regularly spraying the appropriate cleaning agent through the airbrush. It may not be airbrush gospel to all, but the below is what is in my seminar handout:

Toclean the airbrush: Spray or pour outany excess paint from the airbrush. Fillcolor cup approximately ¼ full with appropriate cleaner and spray until cleaneris gone. Once color cup is empty fillagain with cleaner and wipe out inside of cup with soft cloth or paper toweluntil color is completely wiped out of color cup. After wiping out, fill again with a few dropsof cleaner and spray out until cleaner is gone from the airbrush.The key to keeping an airbrush clean is tonot let material set up (dry) in it. This can be done by spraying the appropriate cleaning agent through theairbrush with reasonable frequency (when changing color and when setting theairbrush to rest for any period of time). As a rule if you ask yourself “should I spray cleaner through theairbrush?” the answer is YES.Ifmaterial has been allowed to set up (dry) in the airbrush, it may besuggestible to back flush the airbrush. Thisis done by carefully “pinching” a soft cloth or paper towel over the nozzle’send. This will deflect the air back intothe airbrush’s paint passage and loosen any dried material, sending it into thecleaning bottle. If done correctly, thecleaner will bubble during back flushing. After back flushing the airbrush, it is advisable to attach and sprayfresh cleaner before resuming airbrush usage.Onwhat should be rare occasions it may be necessary to disassemble some parts ofthe airbrush for more thorough cleaning. If disassembly is required, it should only be of parts that come incontact with sprayed material; from the material’s point of entry into theairbrush and forward. The included partsfor disassembly are the nozzle assembly and the needle. (Some airbrushes may require a small paddedpliers or wrench to loosen the nozzle assembly and its components) To thoroughly clean the nozzle assembly -remove it from the airbrush, separate its components and place them in anultrasonic cleaner. (If an ultrasoniccleaner is not available, denture cleaner will effectively clean the nozzlecomponents - follow the denture cleaning directions on the package. Do not leave the nozzle components in thedenture cleaner for a prolonged period). Tothoroughly clean the needle – remove it from the airbrush by loosening theneedle chuck and sliding the needle out of the airbrush. (Be aware the trigger can fall out of theairbrush when the needle is removed.) Firmly wipe the needle down, with a soft clothsaturated with the appropriate cleaning agent, by spinning and sliding itthrough the cloth. (Be careful not tobend the needle’s tip.) If the needlestill has residue, it can be removed by gently rubbing a fine steel wool overthe residual deposit area. Afterall nozzle/needle cleaning steps are complete the airbrush can be reassembledand will be ready for use. Thisdisassembly process should be rarely necessary if cleaner is sprayed throughthe airbrush regularly and it is back flushed when necessary. Disassembly and inspection of the nozzleassembly and needle is recommended if storing your airbrush for an extendedperiod of time.NOTE:IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO SOAK YOUR AIRBRUSH DUE TO THE AFFECT SOAKING THEAIRBRUSH MAY HAVE ON SEALS INSIDE THE AIRBRUSH.
 
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On another note,

Citadel, all be it a popular wargaming figure paint and excellent for brush painting, is amongst the most difficult paints to put through an airbrush - no matter how much you reduce it. The pigment of Citadel is equivalent to a craft paint like Plaid or Delta or Apple Barrell. No matter how much you reduce you cannot reduce the pigment particle size. So the best way to spray Citadel is to use the largest nozzle possible on your airbrush or use an external mix airbrush like a Paasche H or Badger 350.

Think of a room of skinny people and someone yells Fire and they all head for the door to get out of the room. Now think of the same situation with fat people. You can increase the size of the room (thin your paint), and it will help because they all won't get to the door at the same time, but eventually a few of those fat people are going to try to get through the door at the same time and back up the entire flow of people getting out of the room. Next thing you know there's a log jam at the door and a few fat guys are on fire. LOL - anyhow you know what I mean - no offense to any fat people - I am one of you.

If you put in a double door (larger nozzle) even the fat people have a better chance of getting out of the room - just like if you have a larger nozzle to spray the fatter Citadel pigments.
 
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