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Discussion in 'Techniques, Textures, Tips & Tricks!' started by boneman65, Mar 23, 2015.
Hey even a snow ball has a chance in hell (slim and none) LMAO
I got me the grex, I'm happy with it...
I love my Sparmax ones. Okay it does not turn far from fully close to full open but my fully open is only 25psi. But I can still make pretty fine adjustments to it.
The ones you need to stay away from are the cheap no-name Chinese ones. If you get one that works, they only last 2 months. Or you have to for out quit a bit to get the Iwata ones but they do not come with quick release and will make the grip pretty long.
I think I just have a dodgy one, I chose it because like grex I've heard good things, I wouldn't even consider a Chinese one, but since I have all my little tools out I might just give a once over and see if I can't get it to work a little better, if it has sat a long time in the shop it may just need a little lubing, I still prefer it to my built in version because I frequently nudge that one accidentally and end up with little surprises,
And a happy little update, I took out the valve and the little pin that moves backward and forward to restrict the air was a little dirty, it was also very sharp around the end so I cleaned it with some thinners and sand the sharp edged off of it with 1000 wet and dry, put it back together and and it works like a dream, now full adjustment from full pressure to nil, very very smooth
A step-by-step of how to do that would be cool.
I got a black one from lion art sparmax i think?very good though
Here you go
You can see in the photo the whole thing, and under you can see it with the valve removed, the valve unscrews easily with a small spanner, then you see the little black pin on the left which is the part that restricts your air, all you need to do is simply de-burr the corners all around the end of the pin so that they no longer sharp, mine was also dirty so I cleaned all of the black part on the left with thinner, it is brass with black lacquer, I have only de-burred the outermost end of where you can the brass, the rest is just cleaned of old gummy oil, a tiny drop of machine oil after that wiped on and wiped off, replace the valve and a night and day difference in performance.
It took less than 3 minutes but what a difference.
thanks for the help all...now to find one........
Where have i heard that before
Too easy. Thanks a ton Madbrush. I thought there was more to it.
If there was more to it, I couldn't have done it, and no thanks necessary, I think you've done enough over the years to earn a little back
You've obviously been talking to my wife or even worse, that bastard Sean Connory,
@Madbrush, I opened up my Sparmax valves and they were still clean and looked new. I just sanded the end of the tip like you did and now it works even better. Smaller turn to open the air but at the same time less turns to get it to 100% open. SO instead of a 1/8th turn to start the air, it is now 3/32 and instead of 1/2 turn to fully open, it is now about 7/16th turn.
The no-name Chinese ones needed a bit more work. The one on the left is how it comes from the factory. I had to take a bit of metal off.
Wish I saw this thread before I bought the cheap chinese one I bought. It leaks and so does the new one they sent. Took off the valve and it is bent So which is better Grex or Sparmax? Need to get a good replacement please.
FYI: The screw won't come out of the genuine Iwata ones !
You mean the black one that is not a quick coupling? I don't see why not unless they glued it shut.
The black Iwata one will win first prize but if you have to have the quick coupling, then I don't think there is much between the Sparmax or Grex ones. I've read that the Grex ones are heavier.