Masking Tape

[Mat]

Hi everybody I am looking at starting a few different practice projects in the future and I was wondering what exactly is the preferred masking and detail tape for flames and the general masking of your works I have seen Tamiya Ultra flex and 3M Fine line but is there another brand that peeps are using that may be just as good and is cheaper ??

Like I said it will be a good few weeks away so I am also looking at if I can getting a few rolls brought before I start dabbling with it and get a few extra rolls together as to not be running out as well when I will quite definitely getting most of it wrong first off so I want to be able to tackle it head on and not have to take a break from it till I get hold of some more I am using Createx if that makes any difference, I will be practising on some melamime contiboard and laminated MDF sheets which I can get for free then I will be I hope when ready putting into a Black Satin Acrylic Exterior grade paint but that will be a while of but I am thinking that all work and no play so in between bit's and bobs trying some pieces out just to strectch myself a little

Thank's for reading and your time.........Mat

 

[Madbrush]

Hi Mat

There are all kinds of masking tapes and fine line masking tapes a available, it is usually a question shopping around to get the best deal, and the price will vary depending on brand, but so will the quality and trustworthiness of each brand.

I have been using masking tapes all my working life since it's in my job description, but you can pick up the different tapes as well as advice on what's best at any airbrush suppliers or the shops where they sell do it yourself car parts, the problem is it can be expensive.

I recommend good quality low tack masking tape, however I don't recommend the pre-cut fine line tapes, because I find they are way too expensive.

I use low tack masking tape that is formulated for glass that get form the local D.I.Y. shop, this costs about 8 dollars and is 25mm wide (1") I do have a roll of fine line tape 2mm wide which I got free with a load of stuff I bought, but the price tag on that was around 12 dollars, that makes no sense to me and I would certainly never have paid it since you could get more than 8 rolls of that out of a normal roll.

I make my own fine line tape out of a normal roll, in my studio I have a 1.2m X 60cm glass fold away table which I use for cutting everything from foam for my models to stencils for airbrushing, I throw onto this pieces of tape form my normal roll and with a sharp craft knife and steel ruler I simply cut my desired width strips, the reason I do this isn't just to save money but also because I can get exactly the width I want, pre-cut tapes come is standard widths and very often are too wide or not wide enough for the job at hand.

If you want to do this yourself, you don't actually need a glass table as I have, any old piece of glass will serve this purpose, and just lay it on any flat surface or table you have at your disposal.

 

[Tigertron]

I use FBS masking and fine line tape. The masking tape I about the same or even cheaper than the blue stuff at Home Depot. The fine line is pricey when compared to the fact that you are getting 1/8" wide for the same price as a 1" wide. But it's diffrent tape. It stretches and curves very easily. It is also solvent proof.

So you could make your own but it won't be on a roll which for me would not work. I spool off with one hand and guide into place with the other. Anyway look into FBS tape it's good stuff

 

[Madbrush]

I use FBS masking and fine line tape. The masking tape I about the same or even cheaper than the blue stuff at Home Depot. The fine line is pricey when compared to the fact that you are getting 1/8" wide for the same price as a 1" wide. But it's diffrent tape. It stretches and curves very easily. It is also solvent proof.

So you could make your own but it won't be on a roll which for me would not work. I spool off with one hand and guide into place with the other. Anyway look into FBS tape it's good stuff

When I make my own, I'm using it mostly on RC helicopter canopies or model planes, so a 40cm length is sufficient, but if your doing long reaches exceeding 3ft or more then of course it makes sense to buy the roll, as I said because your paying so much for so little, I just wouldn't do it, if it's for a customer and they are paying for it, that's a different matter, but even the customer would be happy if you saved them a little cash.

I won't skimp on the things that really matter like my airbrushes and tools which obviously have to offer some degree of precision, but being I am on a budget and it's a hobby I don't like to pay through the nose for something I'm just going to throw away after I'm done.

When my tape is cut to my required width it also stretches and glides easily round curves and other irregular shapes, the less width it has the less resistance to bending it has.

Any masking tape that isn't solvent proof is useless and way too cheap, any good quality brand name masking tape will even resist chemical paint strippers, anything else I would consider simple packing tape.

Here a fairly large selection of the FBS tapes, I pay less than for mine than the cheapest of these,

FBS Tape in Body Shop Supplies | eBay

 

[Mat]

Thank's Madbrush I am a Painter and Decorator by trade and have always used masking tape but on the odd occasion I had the odd case of bleeding underneath and as ABing is new to me and I haven't used the 3M vinyl tapes so not sure if it's ok to be left for the painted area to dry this is all new to me and's it is I suspect going to be a learning curve actually trying to make off some flames without it then peeling half my paint off with it hahah

I have also over the years cut my tape to required width but I am not sure if bog standard low tack masking tape will work Hence clueless me asking what' best as to not have any bleeding and it pulling half my work off . When I have cut my tape to size when applying it I would always smooth it on and then rub over to create some heat so it would seal the edges is that how you apply it ??? Again i'm not sure as to how thick a coat i put on weather or not normal masking tape does or doesn't pull at the edges???? hahahah the joys of being a newbi and with also being a perfectionist it really annoys the hell out of me when I have got something wrong and didn't cover all the bases

So am I right in saying then that with the likes of the 3M 3mm vinyl tapes that I can get away with not using them and cut my own as If you have by any chance see my coat racks It will be then I need to mask areas off on so 9 times out of 10 I won't need anything much longer that 6inches or shorter or is it also a case of try it see if it works for me ???

Oh and off on a tangent glad to read your sticking with ABing as as well a you talent I'd definitely miss your razor wit thank's for the quick reply as well Madbrush it's much appreciated

Hi Mat

There are all kinds of masking tapes and fine line masking tapes a available, it is usually a question shopping around to get the best deal, and the price will vary depending on brand, but so will the quality and trustworthiness of each brand.

I have been using masking tapes all my working life since it's in my job description, but you can pick up the different tapes as well as advice on what's best at any airbrush suppliers or the shops where they sell do it yourself car parts, the problem is it can be expensive.

I recommend good quality low tack masking tape, however I don't recommend the pre-cut fine line tapes, because I find they are way too expensive.

I use low tack masking tape that is formulated for glass that get form the local D.I.Y. shop, this costs about 8 dollars and is 25mm wide (1") I do have a roll of fine line tape 2mm wide which I got free with a load of stuff I bought, but the price tag on that was around 12 dollars, that makes no sense to me and I would certainly never have paid it since you could get more than 8 rolls of that out of a normal roll.

I make my own fine line tape out of a normal roll, in my studio I have a 1.2m X 60cm glass fold away table which I use for cutting everything from foam for my models to stencils for airbrushing, I throw onto this pieces of tape form my normal roll and with a sharp craft knife and steel ruler I simply cut my desired width strips, the reason I do this isn't just to save money but also because I can get exactly the width I want, pre-cut tapes come is standard widths and very often are too wide or not wide enough for the job at hand.

If you want to do this yourself, you don't actually need a glass table as I have, any old piece of glass will serve this purpose, and just lay it on any flat surface or table you have at your disposal.

 

[Mat]

Thank's Tigertron it's a mine field not knowing as I have no idea of how these paints dry on tapes I haven't used and if the bleed at all, and also on tapes I have used so I could try a 2"roll of a few like FBS 3M and Tamiya and cut them down and see what works best but after what Madbrush said I may have a dabble with a normal low tack tape and do the same

Thank's for the heads up on FBS as well it's very much appreciated

I use FBS masking and fine line tape. The masking tape I about the same or even cheaper than the blue stuff at Home Depot. The fine line is pricey when compared to the fact that you are getting 1/8" wide for the same price as a 1" wide. But it's diffrent tape. It stretches and curves very easily. It is also solvent proof.

So you could make your own but it won't be on a roll which for me would not work. I spool off with one hand and guide into place with the other. Anyway look into FBS tape it's good stuff

 

[Madbrush]

LOL, no problem mat.

This is the stuff I use Outdoor Precise Edge Masking Tape - tesa UK Ltd. this stuff is easy to cut and is is super thin, it's a precision tape ideal for the purpose.

You can cut your lengths from this very easy and accurate, if you are a Painter and Decorator like what I am, you should have in your little box of tricks a "Seam Roller" these are very handy not just for wallpaper, you can use this to flatten down your edges to avoid the seepage, the old style wooden type is preferred, if you overlap at any point, crossing over for example, flatten down the areas close to the join with your finger nail to create a good seal.

This stuff is so good I've used it on paper without lifting, when you spray just be sure not get too heavy an edge close to the tape and lifting paint shouldn't be a problem.

The tape is made by a UK company so you should be able to find it very easy.

 

[Tigertron]

When doing flames or masking areas on a curved surface I put down the 1/8" fine line first then cover the area to be protected with the 3/4". The FBS is translucent enough to see the underling fine line. Then with a new single edge razor I trim the masking tape over the fine line that way I never cut the surface. I then take a small wooden dowel that is cut at an angle and use it as a burnishing tool to go over all the seems.

Once I'm happy and ready to paint I will go over the edges first with an intercoat clear or transparent base to seal them. Once my painting is done I unmask and try to leave the fine line. I pull that very slowly and at a sharp angle to the painted area so that paint lifting is reduced. So I pull up and away from the new paint.

Prep is the key. Get it scuffed and then super clean before masking and wear some gloves if you can.

All tapes will work to one degree or another. But as an example I can tape a circle the size of a quarter with 1/8" FBS tape and have no lift or wrinkles. It's vinyl and stretches unlike paper tape. Also keep your fine line tape in a bag. Dust that settles on the sides sticks to the exposed glue and causes adhesion problems.

 

[Mat]

Thank's for that Madbrush It's very much appreciated

LOL, no problem mat.

This is the stuff I use Outdoor Precise Edge Masking Tape - tesa UK Ltd. this stuff is easy to cut and is is super thin, it's a precision tape ideal for the purpose.

You can cut your lengths from this very easy and accurate, if you are a Painter and Decorator like what I am, you should have in your little box of tricks a "Seam Roller" these are very handy not just for wallpaper, you can use this to flatten down your edges to avoid the seepage, the old style wooden type is preferred, if you overlap at any point, crossing over for example, flatten down the areas close to the join with your finger nail to create a good seal.

This stuff is so good I've used it on paper without lifting, when you spray just be sure not get too heavy an edge close to the tape and lifting paint shouldn't be a problem.

The tape is made by a UK company so you should be able to find it very easy.

 

[Mat]

Cheers Tigertron between you and Madbrush I reckon we got it sussed haha thank's for all you help

When doing flames or masking areas on a curved surface I put down the 1/8" fine line first then cover the area to be protected with the 3/4". The FBS is translucent enough to see the underling fine line. Then with a new single edge razor I trim the masking tape over the fine line that way I never cut the surface. I then take a small wooden dowel that is cut at an angle and use it as a burnishing tool to go over all the seems.

Once I'm happy and ready to paint I will go over the edges first with an intercoat clear or transparent base to seal them. Once my painting is done I unmask and try to leave the fine line. I pull that very slowly and at a sharp angle to the painted area so that paint lifting is reduced. So I pull up and away from the new paint.

Prep is the key. Get it scuffed and then super clean before masking and wear some gloves if you can.

All tapes will work to one degree or another. But as an example I can tape a circle the size of a quarter with 1/8" FBS tape and have no lift or wrinkles. It's vinyl and stretches unlike paper tape. Also keep your fine line tape in a bag. Dust that settles on the sides sticks to the exposed glue and causes adhesion problems.

 

[wmlepage]

Like the baggie idea for fine line Tigerton. I do the same with tack cloths.


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