Metal panel

R

rab3rd

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I have painted a metal panel from Home depot with white glossy enamel paint, several coats. What do I do at this point to airbrush on it? Do I scotch brite it all over first or paint it as is?
 
Scotch brite that sucker after it has dried at least 12 hours. I even tend to clear them too then scuff them.


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wipe down with a good degreaser/cleaner first before you scuff it up.
 
Cool, so what do you clear it with? I didn't really look around for that stuff yet. Also I know erasing will be great on this panel, but what about scratching? Dosent one risk scratching through to the metal? Is scratching something that should be reserved for illustration board and gesso'ed things?
 
Never, ever scratch metal..Well I wouldn't LOL..It will raise the paint edge, open the metal possibly to corrosion, give a rough look and well I wouldn't LOL..BUT..hey why not, whats the worse that will happen, play around with it and see what happens and if you like the look..I'd stick to erasing but half the fun of airbrushing is experimenting, trying new things, see what happens and learn from it...and if you've based it with an enamel paint, you'll likely want to clear it with an enamel paint (If of course the airbrush paints ya used will take that), personally I like to stick with the one type of paint all the way through the process to ensure no negative reactions but again, why not try different things as some of the best effects happen by accident :) GL
 
Erasing is also not gonna work to well. You will have to be very careful because the paint sits on top of the surface, not like on paper where it penetrates a bit and has more resistance.
 
However , using a scotch brite pad will give you the same affect as erasing , just go easy . As far as scratching it can be done but lightly cause it is easy to go right through . Recommend you try the scotch pad to add a brushed look when painting metal panels really add some depth to your work .


Iwata eclipse , H&S infinity . Devilbliss SRI PRO detail .
 
Cool, so what do you clear it with? I didn't really look around for that stuff yet. Also I know erasing will be great on this panel, but what about scratching? Dosent one risk scratching through to the metal? Is scratching something that should be reserved for illustration board and gesso'ed things?

I will use Duplicolr automotive primer, paint, clear. If you stick with the same brand for all but the airbrush paint you won't have any incompatibilities when you then clear over the artwork.


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If you scuff a silver base it gives a great grain, almost like a steel ,un painted panel. Think of it like this. If you ever paint on a car or bike, you would scuff the factory paint, a scuffing pad will only give you a tooth for the paint to bite too, and add another step to make sure contaminants are not on the surface. Which is also another reason to primer, paint , clear, your panels. It will get you used to working this way. Granted spray can paints and primers are not as hard as factory coatings. If painting on a powder coated panel, the same thing applies, the powder is as hard or harder than paint coatings.


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scuff , prime, scuff, base , scuff , artwork , clear .
You can erase on metal and even scratch , I do it all the time , Just use a lighter hand when doing so . Being this is you first metal panel try everything you have been doing on paper.
Alan Pastrana even does erasing and scratching in his El Padrino video on Coast Airbrush TV..Well worth the watch.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Now I just have to decide what I want to paint. ;-) I guess the nice thing is if you screw up you can just reapply the base coat and start over... Its just a 12 x 18 inch metal panel, not a car hood or anything important...
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Now I just have to decide what I want to paint. ;-) I guess the nice thing is if you screw up you can just reapply the base coat and start over... Its just a 12 x 18 inch metal panel, not a car hood or anything important...

Panels are more important than car hood when you start you airbrushing shop . That is what shows off your work when folks walk into your shop...
But yes if you screw it up you simple start over and that is called Practice:D

Oh also check out the local salvage yards for old street signs , they are Aluminum and affordable , I bought 4 old 36 inch square RR crossing signs for 5 bucks. cut them into any size you want.
 
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Now I just have to decide what I want to paint. ;-) I guess the nice thing is if you screw up you can just reapply the base coat and start over... Its just a 12 x 18 inch metal panel, not a car hood or anything important...


My most recent project went this way, was unhappy with it, sanded it back and started again, second go at a project is always better any way, and third times the charm as they say. Lol!
 
Also a good reason to clear first. If using water based paint, you can usually just clean it off with alcohol or something, leaving the base coat and clear behind, then all you need to do is re sand or scuff the clear and go again.
 
Also a good reason to clear first. If using water based paint, you can usually just clean it off with alcohol or something, leaving the base coat and clear behind, then all you need to do is re sand or scuff the clear and go again.


I didnt think about that, making a stop on the way home from work to pick up some clear... ;-)
 
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