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Ok so I have had my CM-B a few weeks. I have softened the air valve spring , loosened the over tight packing, and adjusted the trigger tension. I still have a bit of a "click" for a better word when I push down for air. I have lubed the air valve pin and o ring, lubed the trigger pin, and cleaned it. Do I need a new o ring in the body for the trigger pin? This is my only last thought. Other than that the thing is buttery smooth.



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Iwatas does not have a gradual trigger action like Badger. Is it more like on/off. There is a click sound when it is completely open and I doubt there is anything tou can do about it.
 
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I have the same problem with my CM-C and every other Iwata I own. I think it might be the pivot pin that goes thru the bottom of the trigger. The sharp edge of the pin that sticks out could be binding in the slot it rides in. Look into the opening on the side of the airbrush and you can see the trigger and the pin I am talking about. Other than that, I really havent looked into the issue that much.
 
Ok thanks guys. Was not sure if it was me or my cm-b. Don't remember my other iwata's doing it. Maybe a bit o polishing of the base of the trigger will smooth it out.


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I was thinking the same if I can get used to it. My HP-ch is smooth, my c+ and eclipse are a bit more positive, but the cm clicks. I wonder if a different trigger is in order, maybe the ones that are joined are less likely to click, or are all micron triggers 2 piece.


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My cmc is the same Wayne, I've tried everything to lessen it but nothing works, it is as others say on or off, no progression


Iwata custom micron cmc and eclipse
Badger krome and patriot.
And a very understanding wife..
 
Cool, I didn't know that since I never had the chance to use a micron. Worth a thought now...I always wondered how many ppl actually really use the air trigger gradual. :)
Guess that counts for the sb version too?


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Ok so I was messing with it, tried to take the o-ring out of the body, note to self only do this if you have a spare. Yep, messed it up, just ordered 2 from coast airbrush. Oh well, one micron down for a fw days, good thing I still have a krome.
 
Ok so I was messing with it, tried to take the o-ring out of the body, note to self only do this if you have a spare. Yep, messed it up, just ordered 2 from coast airbrush. Oh well, one micron down for a fw days, good thing I still have a krome.

After the last post I went and had another little blast at the exercises and to be honest I couldn't feel the click at much as usual. Maybe either something had lessened in tension or I'm just plain used to it now,
I used the krome this weekend on the course and had to switch to the micron, the krome just needed cleaning out too often, but I see what you about the gradual air pressure as opposed to the straight on and off of the micron


Iwata custom micron cmc and eclipse
Badger krome and patriot.
And a very understanding wife..
 
Ok so after fighting with it, I put the possibly damaged o ring back in, no issues. With further investigation, it is the pin and seal inside of the air valve that sticks, so I may order a new one at some point. I had previously lubed this pin with Super lube, this time I have uses Paasche airbrush lube, as I remember reading somewhere about someone complaining about the tackiness of the superlube at times. It seems to be smother and stick less, but will not know until I use it again today or tomorrow. I did order 2 new body o rings and a few other things from Coast Airbrush.
 
This weekend I'm gonna change the valve spring on my new cmc+..... I thought before I get the spring I'd give it s trial run. ... so I tried unscrewing the air valve assembly via the nurled thread where the hose connects to the airbrush.... wont budge.... I even got a bit of non slip mat around it and still nothing. ... am I doing it right. ... this piece does unscrew like on the badgers doesn't it? I don't really want to get pliers on it
 
It unscrews. I used a pair of pliers, with soft jaws, wrap some rubber or something soft with grip around it first. Then lube the threads with chapstick after. I got the Zsolt springs from lion Art, he hooked me up with better shipping to the US, stuffed it all ( 4 springs and a valve tool) in an envelope, made it much more affordable.


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This weekend I'm gonna change the valve spring on my new cmc+..... I thought before I get the spring I'd give it s trial run. ... so I tried unscrewing the air valve assembly via the nurled thread where the hose connects to the airbrush.... wont budge.... I even got a bit of non slip mat around it and still nothing. ... am I doing it right. ... this piece does unscrew like on the badgers doesn't it? I don't really want to get pliers on it

To get to the spring, you only need to take out the little brass nut from the bottom of the air intake. You can use tweezers. Just be careful because it is under pressure from the spring inside. The spring and piston will come out. Just pop the new spring in and screw the brass nut back in. It's a 5 minute job. Just don't cross thread the nut.

The same goes for Badger. You do not need to remove the whole valve.

airvalve_removal.jpg
 
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To get to the spring, you only need to take out the little brass nut from the bottom of the air intake. You can use tweezers. Just be careful because it is under pressure from the spring inside. The spring and piston will come out. Just pop the new spring in and screw the brass nut back in. It's a 5 minute job. Just don't cross thread the nut.

Nice Andre, don't know why I didn't even think of that, guess I missed that part.
 
That's excellent info guys Thanks. ... I take it the but you are on about is the little brass one that looks like a button with a hole either side of Centre. ..get done tweezers in there and turn yer? Thanks again gents
 
That's excellent info guys Thanks. ... I take it the but you are on about is the little brass one that looks like a button with a hole either side of Centre. ..get done tweezers in there and turn yer? Thanks again gents

Yip. put tweezers in the two slots and turn. Obviously the wider the tweezers the better. Very thin ones tend to twist. I just sanded a pair down untill they were the same width as the those wholes so that I can get a perfect grip. I also put a little rubber o-ring over the fat end of the tweezers so that it compresses the tips. That way it can grip the nut and you only need to turn and not concentrate on the gripping. It also keeps is ready for when you need to put it back.
 
Easier solution than I came up with. I took a set screw, filed off some from either side of the socket opening, leaving two tangs and the rest of the hole where the Allen wrench would fit. This leaves a hole for the pin. For some reason my micron, eclipse, and hp-ch all seem to have slightly different size brass nuts.


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Ad fez, I had the same problem with my Olympus air valve when trying to unscrew the whole valve unit off my airbrush. Then I clipped a wooden clothes peg on the valve and gripped the whole lot in a vice and it worked a treat. You can also use pliers on the wooden peg with your right hand and turn the airbrush with the left hand which also works great. Either way the wooden peg protects the airbrush from getting damaged by the pliers or vice.
20131108_160521.jpg

Cheers Mel
 
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