Moisture trap question

I'm not sure what gifts they put in. You may have a Marissa post card of one of her self portraits, I got one through the post, for another reason. It could be anything, gummy bears, stickers.. not sure.. You will see soon.

Lee
 
Between the two setups there is one reason why I would put the filter before the quick release. That is off coarse if it has a mac valve.

If the trap is after and you are working at low pressure, there is not enough air to force the water out of the trap when you press the release button. But then again, there might not be enough air to push the water into the trap in the first place.
Also if you turn down the air pressure, the air will build up in the trap and your first press of the trigger, the pressure will be higher but will settle straight away.
It is more comfortable to hold this way.
Storing the airbrush with the trap needs a bit more space and you will need a trap for each airbrush.
grip_filter_01_2.jpg grip_filter_02_2.jpg
 
Between the two setups there is one reason why I would put the filter before the quick release. That is off coarse if it has a mac valve.

If the trap is after and you are working at low pressure, there is not enough air to force the water out of the trap when you press the release button. But then again, there might not be enough air to push the water into the trap in the first place.
Also if you turn down the air pressure, the air will build up in the trap and your first press of the trigger, the pressure will be higher but will settle straight away.
It is more comfortable to hold this way.
Storing the airbrush with the trap needs a bit more space and you will need a trap for each airbrush.
View attachment 62859 View attachment 62860
So in theory if I wanna empty moisture trap and I have setup like on first picture : airbrush > moisture trap > quick connect I could just up the pressure on regulator, empty moisture trap with higher pressure and put pressure back down?
Do you see moisture in moisture trap? I never seen it, so I don't have a clue, not joking.
 
It's official I am a psychic! :eek:
I got my gummy bears :cool:
I suspect foxy people are psychic as well :eek:
Cause I even got an eraser as a freebie :cool:

Jokes aside, I didn't have erasers at home so I ordered some. So they figure it out, I really do need erasers :laugh:
here is a picture of my freebies(there is a sticker and flyer about online course as well), gummy bears included! :laugh:
My new moisture trap and my new spring plus few bits and pieces which I need. And picture for size comparison my new moisture trap and old sparmax.

Got also a question about releasing moisture... This filter doesn't have release valve, I remember one member sad he is using this filter for very long time and he doesn't have any problems with it. But just in theory. Can I release moisture from it, if I connect quick connect with mac valve to it and also quick connect tail. Does this opens the air to go out of that moisture trap? Just brainstorming.

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2.jpg

In real life that moisture trap looks damn good :cool:
 
I don't use these types of air filter because I don't like having a long air valve stalk. I don't use quick-connects or in-line MAC valves for the same reason. Just a straight hose-to-brush connection for me. I actually did put a bunch of O-rings on the valve stem on both my Eclipse and Micron to improve grip, and that's worked out fantastically. I don't like having more stalk length, but just removing the slippery smooth chrome factor does make a huge difference in grip comfort/security.

I don't see the grip filters as truly necessary for actual filtering. If you've got a lot of moisture, you can gang multiple filters and/or filter stages at the regulator/compressor outlet. It's not like moisture will be getting into the airline once it's past the compressor, so if you can dry it at the regulator at least enough to match a (filtered) less humid climate, then it shouldn't need anything at the brush end.

So IMO filters like these are mostly a bling-y way of beefing up the grip factor for people who rely on the stem for grip. If I were to need the extra filtration, and was worried about the cost of a filter for every brush, I'd just add more filtration to the regulator end. If I were to need/want more stem, I'd bulk up a quick connect with tape.
 
Can't upload a pic as an edit, but here's what I mean about the O-rings:
2020-06-05 20.07.06.jpg
Just extra silicone O-rings I had left over from another project, so technically a kluge.
 
Now you made me wanna have O-rings... :rolleyes:

These are the ones I used. Pretty cheap. Dunno about a European source, but I should think they're available. These are for customizing computer keyboards, and I know there's an active keyboard hobby community (yup: that's a thing) in Europe, at least.

As a corollary to that: yes, I did build my own keyboard.
 
I didn't wanna post this cause when you look at Nessus clean airbrushes I would dig my self in to the ground instead of posting these picture. For the sake of topic here we go(insert ashamed smiley here lol). On my bcs I have that gummy thingy from plastic pen - our forum member suggestion, I forgot which one it is. On my sbs I have also that plastic thingy but I was experimenting long time ago and I sad to my self to hell with all and I just duck tape it for test. I wasn't joking before with call of duty and duck tape :D

As soon I started using duck taped sbs I didn't wanna take it off. I got that duck tape for some time now. I need to find something more clean then duck tape, but the size of girth of that stem is incredible for comfort.

WP_20200606_002.jpg WP_20200606_003.jpg WP_20200606_001.jpg
 
These are the ones I used. Pretty cheap. Dunno about a European source, but I should think they're available. These are for customizing computer keyboards, and I know there's an active keyboard hobby community (yup: that's a thing) in Europe, at least.

As a corollary to that: yes, I did build my own keyboard.
this will be easy to find. Thanks. O-rings for mechanical cherry switches. I'm not lost here, I know what you are talking ab out :D
 
wooden one?

XD75.jpg

Aluminum case, steel plate, ABS caps. All prefab aftermarket parts I sourced and collated from multiple vendors/makers, as there were no real kits for what I wanted. Ground out and replaced the screw standoffs in the case in order to match the PCB I wanted (XD-75), replaced the springs in the switches (Aliaz silent tactiles) with lighter ones (15 gram), put butyl rubber dampening on the plate underside (that stuff is a bitch to cut cleanly), and Sorbothane foam dampening inside the case.
 
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I didn't wanna post this cause when you look at Nessus clean airbrushes I would dig my self in to the ground instead of posting these picture. For the sake of topic here we go(insert ashamed smiley here lol). On my bcs I have that gummy thingy from plastic pen - our forum member suggestion, I forgot which one it is. On my sbs I have also that plastic thingy but I was experimenting long time ago and I sad to my self to hell with all and I just duck tape it for test. I wasn't joking before with call of duty and duck tape :D

As soon I started using duck taped sbs I didn't wanna take it off. I got that duck tape for some time now. I need to find something more clean then duck tape, but the size of girth of that stem is incredible for comfort.

View attachment 62916 View attachment 62917 View attachment 62918

Adding some grip padding to the stem does wonders, doesn't it?

Don't feel insecure about the "clean looking" thing IMO. Working tools customized with whatever one had on hand have their own "Millennium Falcon" kind of charisma.

Also, you can't see it in the pic, but my micron has some proper scraped-up knurling from trying to loosen factory-overtightened parts without the special $80 Iwata soft-jaw pliers.
 
View attachment 62919

Aluminum case, steel plate, ABS caps. All prefab aftermarket parts I sourced and collated from multiple vendors/makers, as there were no real kits for what I wanted. Ground out and replaced the screw standoffs in the case in order to match the PCB I wanted, replaced the springs in the switches with lighter ones, and put butyl rubber dampening on the plate underside (that stuff is a bitch to cut cleanly).
Damn this keyboard looks so clean! I'll take 2 please :cool:
 
Adding some grip padding to the stem does wonders, doesn't it?

Don't feel insecure about the "clean looking" thing IMO. Working tools customized with whatever one had on hand have their own "Millennium Falcon" kind of charisma.

Also, you can't see it in the pic, but my micron has some proper scraped-up knurling from trying to loosen factory-overtightened parts without the special $80 Iwata soft-jaw pliers.
I was thinking of using isolation for pipes and stuff, just didn't have the time to find the right size yet.
armaflex-izolacija_395x395r.jpg


I do agree. Before I got more girth on stem I had pain in my hand. Probably I was gripping to hard. Doesn't happen anymore.
 
Damn this keyboard looks so clean! I'll take 2 please :cool:

It wasn't hard to build. Cutting the butyl rubber was the worst part by far. The PCB came with hot-swap sockets, so I didn't have to do any soldering.

Expensive though. And a lot of the parts come from Asia, so current quarantine conditions make it a bad time to buy them.
 
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