Need help cleaning my Airbrush

T

TXWolf86

Guest
Hello,

I'm new to the forum, and this first thread of mine might make you guys send mate mail my way, but please bare with me, I'm literally brand new to airbrushing.

I bought a Gravity Fed Airbrush made by Air Pro. However during my first use of it I didn't know I had to clean it after ever use or every color; like I said, this statement alone will cause you to send me hate mail. Any way. I tried to use it again for a project I tried working on. However I noticed that there was no paint coming out of the nozzle, instead I saw that the paint in the brush was actually bubbling inside the bowl that holds the paint. By that time I bought some Airbrush Cleaner before hand and used it to clean it out before use. I was working for a bit, but it still bubbled up after a while. I knew then that the airbrush was severely clogged up and I've been trying to find any info on how to clean the dried paint; no luck finding anything I'm looking for unfortunately.

I'd really like to know what I should do. I'd prefer to clean out the paint instead of chucking the brush all together, my finances are too tight to buy a new airbrush, even the cheap ones sold in stores like Hobby Lobby or Hobby Town USA. Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. I look forward to any replies you post on this thread.

Regards,

~ TXWolf86
 
There will not be any hate mail heading your way, I can promise you that, you will likely get smacked on the knuckles for not taking the time to do a proper intro in the introductions section letting us know
A) Where your from, there will likely be members in the same vicinity who can suggest good value outlets for supplies
B) what brush you have - yes I know you've covered that
C) what paint you use, this is vital if we are to advise correctly
D) what you want to do with the airbrush (why did you start)
C) anything else you care to share cod we're a nosy bunch :)

Yes you have a clogged nozzle, it will require soaking (nozzle not the whole airbrush) but without knowing which paint you're using we can't suggest what to use to clean it, your "airbrush cleaner" may just be not suited to the paint used

Welcome to the fun, frustration and fascination of all things airbrush
 
I think Jackie has you covered.
But I will add I have never heard of Air Pro airbrushes so I am guessing knock-off.
Water based paint soak the nozzle in 5619 Restorer made by Createx
Airbrush Restorer
Used for cleaning and restoring
dried paint from airbrushes.
Price: $12.35
17.00 AUD 16.17 CAD 11.29 EUR found on this page from Coast Airbrush http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=59
urethane just soak the nozzle in what ever paint brand you used thinner.
Now go make a proper introduction http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/
 
I'm not sure you know how to remove the nozzle. Different makes do different things. I think you can remove the whole head assembly on that one, if you can thats a lot better than removing the little nozzle.
 
Cause I just woke up this morning and it is late 6:30 am LOL
That would have made it just after 9pm here
Waking up at 6:30am mon - fri means I'm already running late.... I'm normally on the road by then. As for the weekends, all bets are off, you'll see me when I get around to it
 
That would have made it just after 9pm here
Waking up at 6:30am mon - fri means I'm already running late.... I'm normally on the road by then. As for the weekends, all bets are off, you'll see me when I get around to it
I usually at work at 5:30 am M-F but I usually get up at 5 to 5:30 am on the weekends too . 6:30 is sleeping in for me LOL
 
The "mate mail" you have in the first line is more accurate about the kind of help you will get here Lol. I know it's a typo, but still true:)

As mentioned the more info we have, the easier it is to advise, although Mr. Micron probably has you covered. As JackEB said we are nosy :), but also all that info where you live, what type of airbrushing you do, or want to get into, all the equipment you have etc, will really help us throughout your time here. People will want to give the best advice possible, so do check back to peoples intros. We're just that awesome LOL!!!!

I will add, that cleaning nozzles is tricksy thing. Once you have cleaned it, you look down it and it looks clean, and paint is coming through so it must be clean - doesn't always mean it's clean. I would say 90% of the issues newbies have is because of nozzles. The tiniest speck of old paint can cause issues. Once you 'think' it's clean, clean again just to make sure. And if you are still getting problems then it's probably not as clean as you thought.

Or it could just be clogging straight up again because of the paint you are using, or the way you are using it. Or unfortunately if it's all clean and your paint is good, because it's probably a knock off brush, the materials are inferior and often degenerate quickly, or damage easily, so the nozzle could be bad.

Nozzles - when they're good they're very very good. When they're bad - aaaaarrgh lollollol.
 
Thanks for all the replies, that means a lot ^-^.

In regards to the paint used that clogged my airbrush, I use Createx Acrylic based Airbrush Paint. Unfortunately I didn't thin the paint with Acrylic Thinner when I first used the brush, which contributed to the brush being clogged as it is.

What I was intending for the project was to paint a decals on a Zippo Lighter I planned on giving to a friend of mine as a Christmas Gift. I take part in those Airsoft MILSIM's, basically Real-Life-Team-Deathmatch with airsoft guns and equipment, my friend is the captain of the team I belong to. After that project, I was thinking of painting camo onto my rifle. This was basically what I was thinking of for experimenting, and after that I was thinking of Fine Art for the Airbrush afterwords. I spend more time drawing and painting with an actual pencil, pen, and paintbrush than anything else, besides a keyboard for Creative Writing, and a controller for Video Games. I just go all over the place don't I?

Ps. OW!!! Careful with the knuckle slaps, I have tender skin ya'know!!! LOL
 
Standard createx is design for Textiles and is not color fast , and is design to be use at 50 to 60 PSI through a .5 or larger nozzle setup. While with some reduction it can work through a .35 But you do want to strain it.Reduce with water or W500
Wicked made by Createx is designed for almost any surface that will hold paint is flow great straight out the bottle through a .35 and with reduction works great through a .18 set up.Reduce with W500
Createx Illustration works straight out the bottle as well but rocks through the smaller nozzle sizes when reduced. Reduce with W500 which is createx brand reducer.

So what is the nozzle size or that air pro? Which after some searching I found it mainly slated for Make-up work.

Oh and I stopped busting knuckle due to it made it hard to be able to paint well so now I use a 1000 volt cattle prod to really get your heart pumping :D
 
As with all things, it's when you make mistakes that you really begin to learn about how things are supposed to work.
This excercise will teach you how to clean, care for and restore your a/b from scratch.
Yes, you can watch you-tube vids and see it done correctly, but until you have to do it - well, it's all just theory up to that point.
You may also find out why your particular brush is misbehaving [ or behaving, ] as the case may be.
My advice, when you remove the cap, nozzle and eventually, the needle; remember to place them carefully onto a FLAT NON SLIP surface AWAY from any possibility of you knocking them off the bench and onto the floor.
A magnetic parts tray is an ideal container to put them in, temporarily.
Somewhere in the depths of my workroom is the crown cap off my Iwata, a needle and about 10 micro neodimium magnets that I have yet to retrieve.
I know they're there, but I haven't sighted them just yet.
 
As with all things, it's when you make mistakes that you really begin to learn about how things are supposed to work.
This excercise will teach you how to clean, care for and restore your a/b from scratch.
Yes, you can watch you-tube vids and see it done correctly, but until you have to do it - well, it's all just theory up to that point.
You may also find out why your particular brush is misbehaving [ or behaving, ] as the case may be.
My advice, when you remove the cap, nozzle and eventually, the needle; remember to place them carefully onto a FLAT NON SLIP surface AWAY from any possibility of you knocking them off the bench and onto the floor.
A magnetic parts tray is an ideal container to put them in, temporarily.
Somewhere in the depths of my workroom is the crown cap off my Iwata, a needle and about 10 micro neodimium magnets that I have yet to retrieve.
I know they're there, but I haven't sighted them just yet.

Ohhh boy i cannot count the stuff i havent located yet! Good advice because some of thos nozzles are tiny!
 
Standard createx is design for Textiles and is not color fast , and is design to be use at 50 to 60 PSI through a .5 or larger nozzle setup. While with some reduction it can work through a .35 But you do want to strain it.Reduce with water or W500
Wicked made by Createx is designed for almost any surface that will hold paint is flow great straight out the bottle through a .35 and with reduction works great through a .18 set up.Reduce with W500
Createx Illustration works straight out the bottle as well but rocks through the smaller nozzle sizes when reduced. Reduce with W500 which is createx brand reducer.

So what is the nozzle size or that air pro? Which after some searching I found it mainly slated for Make-up work.

Oh and I stopped busting knuckle due to it made it hard to be able to paint well so now I use a 1000 volt cattle prod to really get your heart pumping :D

I think my particular brush is a Air Pro Tools PS800K, but as far as my nozzle/needle size I believe it's a .5mm. What I do know is that when I started spraying some paint on some newsprint paper, when it was still working of course, the diameter of the circle of the spray was 3mm (mm's are marked along in the inches side of the ruler, right?) in length. I don't know if that info helps in any way. I've been trying to find information regarding my brush online, but I haven't been able to find anything, not even the manufacturers website or any kind of company info.
 
I think my particular brush is a Air Pro Tools PS800K,

Looks like a standard Iwata HP-C copy. Shouldn't be too much trouble to strip and clean, replacement needles and nozzles are mega cheap on eBay or Amazon. When I blocked my HP-B+ I removed and soaked the nozzle for a while in restorer then very very carefully pushed the needle in to the nozzle gently turning the needle as I went, and the bits of paint came out of the nozzle bit by bit. You may have to do this a few times as you think you have all the paint out but you always find more. I must repeat be extremely careful with the nozzle, you will see the paint come out, don't poke too hard.

Lee
 
Those knockoff airbrushes have many names I believe. I think Master airbrushes are the same, not sure. As for between colors I use these
e4b803643a4eaba43d1023afdcb6b986.jpg

AMMONIA FREE windex make sure there's no ammonia. Squirt that in the cup and flush it, next I squirt a little alcohol, swish and flush, then some water or more windex to wash out the alcohol as that will destroy your paint. This takes no time at all having squirt bottles on my desk, and makes for easy color switching. The bubbles from the windex spray really seem to pull the old paint out. Kind of like a little bubble scrubber. You'll also get very good at disassembling your airbrush to get the needle out and clean it. Takes me a couple min at the end of every airbrushing session which is usually a couple hours a night. Just like cleaning paint brushes. Must be done after every use to keep it nice.
also, NEVER BUY CREATEX REGULAR! They're cheap but for cloth only. I hate that paint. They miserable to work with. Wicked or illustration colors only from now on. It's worth the extra change. Also other brands of paint etac, auto air, house of kolor are good
 
circle of the spray was 3mm (mm's are marked along in the inches side of the ruler, right?) .
millimetres are 10ths of a centimetre, so are on the cm side of the ruler. However the size of the dot you spray is determined by the distance away from the surface you move the gun. The spray pattern is a cone shape, so the farther away you are the wider the pattern and vice versa :)

Looks like your brush comes in 3 sizes, even if you have the larger .5 size, you will still need a lot of reduction to the regular createx through it, plus fairly high psi. If you email some paint companies they may send you small samples of other paints to try before you buy, so you can find what suits you (worth a try anyway). I've done this before, and with paper types too.
 
As the t-shirt guys will tell you, Createx regular needs to be blasted through an airbrush at about 55 psi, hard enough to penetrate the fibres of the fabric they're painting.
Try this with paper and you'll have a nicely coloured splat on it real quick!:laugh:
I'd look for a base colour set [ E'tac, etc ] to have a go with, or maybe even coloured inks [ less reduction, and it's only water added ] .
Stuff like Daler Rowney FW ink or similar, till you get the hang of it.
These are somewhat cheaper [ usually ] and are more common in your local art supply place than airbrush paints.
Experiment and have fun!
 
Another option, depending on your local, is Tamiya model paints. They're also designed for airbrushing, and are semi-common in hobby stores (though not in craft or art stores). Colors are generally not as saturated as with illustration paints, but they may be easier to find "over the counter" than stuff like Wicked or E'tac.
 
Those knockoff airbrushes have many names I believe. I think Master airbrushes are the same, not sure. As for between colors I use these
e4b803643a4eaba43d1023afdcb6b986.jpg

AMMONIA FREE windex make sure there's no ammonia. Squirt that in the cup and flush it, next I squirt a little alcohol, swish and flush, then some water or more windex to wash out the alcohol as that will destroy your paint. This takes no time at all having squirt bottles on my desk, and makes for easy color switching. The bubbles from the windex spray really seem to pull the old paint out. Kind of like a little bubble scrubber. You'll also get very good at disassembling your airbrush to get the needle out and clean it. Takes me a couple min at the end of every airbrushing session which is usually a couple hours a night. Just like cleaning paint brushes. Must be done after every use to keep it nice.
also, NEVER BUY CREATEX REGULAR! They're cheap but for cloth only. I hate that paint. They miserable to work with. Wicked or illustration colors only from now on. It's worth the extra change. Also other brands of paint etac, auto air, house of kolor are good
Why would you use windex ? extra chemical ?? Sorry but that is just asking for trouble and granted back 20 years ago I might have even gave it a go to .
But Alcohol and water with a touch of glycerin works great and is the bases for the W100 and W500 that is now used today.
Oh and just for the record windex is classed a fire hazard
http://www.local510.org/msds_sheets/Windex_MSDS.pdf always view MSDS sheets on anything you use.
 
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