Need help with master G22

[VoltageArt]

I recently bought a master G22 airbrush and compressor kit. the compressor works perfect. Yet their seems to be something wrong with the airbrush.

If I put nothing but water in it , the water comes out nicely and covers a good sized area. but when I try using paint nothing comes out anymore, and what dose manage to come out is very transparent and thin. and only by holding the brush close to the paper dose the paint become noticeable. And when I let go of the trigger a splash of paint will come out in a watery dot but when I pull back nothing.

I make sure to water down the paint to a milk like consistency but it still wont let the paint out. the only time I get ANY kind of paint is when its basically 95% water and 5% paint. so pretty much just colored paint water. and at that point I can't spray my model Dinosaur (I am using for practice) because the stuff would just drip off of it and create a big mess.

and even though little to no paint is coming out I am still getting a very nice steady flow of air going through the brush. I had almost the same problem with my other airbrush a CNUALV 180, but my Dad found the adjuster and we were able to start getting a nice flow of paint out of it (still not coming out as much as I want, but a start) But I can't find an adjuster on the G22

some other notes about my setup.
I have my air compressor set at a little over 25 Psi
I am using Testors acrylic craft paint (matte)
I cleaned out my air brush completely (including removing the needle and making sure nothing is on it) .
I make sure the paint is not to thick.
I made sure the needle nut thing was nice and tight.

any and all help will be greatly appreciated. I am very new to airbrushing and really hope this problem can be fixed.

 

[Malky]

From what you've described in sounds like you just need to strain your paint, if the paint has been lying around for a while it likely has dried particles around the bottle neck, these participles will block your either completely other partly causing your slow flow and accounting for the little splash when you let go of the trigger.

You can strain your paint through some old nylon stockinga, it's actually wise to do this even with new paints, they often lye for long periods on the shop's/suppliers shelves, thorough mixing is also a must.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ronald art]

First off try more pressure , but it is a master and that "brand" is just a cheap knock off , now run over to introductions and tell a little more about yourself before the stranger police turns up

 

[Malky]

First off try more pressure , but it is a master and that "brand" is just a cheap knock off , now run over to introductions and tell a little more about yourself before the stranger police turns up

She actually already did that before posting this thread

 

[Ronald art]

She actually already did that before posting this thread

Sorry for that I missed it

 

[VoltageArt]

well I have tried more pressure (did not exceed over 30 PSI though) got a little bit more paint but not much. and as for straining the paint that did not do anything as well. and without straining my other airbrush works OK with it if its watered down a bit.

This is the airbrush I have. (only mine came with whats shown and an airbrush compressor.)

 

[Ronald art]

I dont know the paint you are working with , but I expect it needs about 40 if not more PSI , as for the airbrush it is the of hit or miss kind of airbrush more miss than hit I am afraid as it is real poor quality

 

[VoltageArt]

This is what the paint looks like. its actually already pretty thin without adding any water to it. and its waterbased anyway. It works OK with my other AirBrush.

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[basepaint]

That paint isn't good for airbrushing the pigment is to big and will clog the brush as you found out,try finding some reg. Airbrush paint like com art or golden hi flow both reduce with just water and will spray thru your brush with little or no thinning needed

 

[VoltageArt]

Strange, I see a lot of people using the same basic craft paint (different brands) and the results are about the same as airbrush paint. and this stuff works fine with my other airbrush. I just need to figure out the right consistency for my 180. but I filtered the paint... I try filtering the paint a 2nd time with my master airbrush but at this point its looking like its got a manufacturing defect. ( and looking at the reviews for the kit I got a lot of people seem to have the same issue so it looks like its just very poor quality airbrush.

 

[JackEb]

If you want good results the use the proper product.

using the same basic craft paint (different brands) and the results are about the same as airbrush paint.

You cannot expect the same result as everyone else when people are using different brands of paint. It's kind of like asking why doesn't your fruit taste like everyone else's when you have a lemon and every one else has a banana, it's still yellow fruit .....

As base paint has pointed out, it's very likely it's a pigment size issue - the g22 is normally shipped with a .3 needle. Your other brush is likely a .5mm set up (and higher PSI) is your dad found the 'adjuster')hence the reason the paint flow through it and not the G22.

I'd suggest Getting a bottle of proper airbrush paint, tear down your brush and give it a good clean and try again.

 

[VoltageArt]

My other airbrush has a .2mm needle currently in it and it ran the pain fine. I would pick up airbrush paint. if I could find a place with a decent price as almost all airbrush paint is around $3 a bottle and I just can't afford that right now . So I will eventually find airbrush paint but I will have to find a sale or something (or try to find them at hobby lobby / michaels were i can use a coupon)

also I DID take the airbrush apart and clean it out completely and that still did not help my G22

 

[Don Wheeler]

Have a look at the postscript at the bottom of this page and see if that's your problem.

Don

 

[tucky]

I know money is a big thing for some of us on a budget but if u r serious then u need to get an airbrush worthy of ur efforts

 

[Gore Hunter]

Have you checked the nozzle and the needle? Maybe there's something wrong with one of those parts, but if you can spray water nicely I think the issue is related to paint... I would recommend you to thin it down with something else, or buy one or two bottles of airbrush paint and see if it changes anything... also, do you get bubbles in the paint cup when you pull back on the trigger?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[basepaint]

Another thing is don't get black or white paint as it's the worst colors for tip dry so use yellow or Brown to learn with you will find it helps till you get better at reduction

 

[VoltageArt]

I checked both the nozzle and the needle and nothing was out of place their and I cleaned both . I was a at a point were I would basically fill the cup mostly with water and add a drop of paint. ( pretty much just paint water) and it still no color would come out and at this point no water either just air and maybe one or two drops of water. and as for colors I am using a pastel blue color for testing and practicing on an old Iguanadon model toy I have.

As for the nozzle O-Ring nothing seems to be wrong with it ,and is sitting were it should be. Also I do not get any bubbles in the cup unless I cover the end to blow the air in to the cup to get paint out of the needle area.

I sorry but I don't know what tip dry is exactly. an also I only have one thing off black paint I use with a brush for painting eyes and other fine details with a paintbrush. then I mostly blues, purples and pale grays.

And could anyone recommend some airbrush paint brands . I don't know a lot about the different brands ,but while researching the Airbrush itself the names that come up most are Wicked colors and Createx. So are these really good quality ? and would they work on plastic?

 

[Ronald art]

tip dry : paint dries on the tip of the needle and blocks the paint flow, it is the nature of all waterbased paints , I cant help you with paint brands as I only use Etac paint and mainly the EFX range and you cant use that on plastic , the PS range is for T shirts and automotive use but again not made for plastic . you could look at valejo paints this paint is made for use on plastic scale models . I have never worked with it and cant tell you how it sprays , I hate everything createx makes but that is personal

 

[Nessus]

Master Airbrush is just one of the many interchangeable "brands" used by the Chinese knock-off factories. Those guys don't really care if their brushes even work at all, they just know if they dump enough of them into the market at a low enough price point, they'll still make a profit even many of them end up in the trash. Make em' cheap enough, and people will buy them like Kleenex, and not get mad enough to cause problems if they get a dud. They like to tempt you with low prices, but the trade off is that when you buy from them you're gambling with your budget money. You're thinking "it's cheap, so I can try it out without risking too much", but the thing is, with them you're risking your money before you even get to try it, not just on the trying itself. You may lose that money without ever getting to try it out.

Use one of those coupons on a Badger Patriot or an Iwata Revolution or Eclipse. At half off it'll still be twice the price of the Master, but you'll be able to rely on it to "just work" at a fixed minimum standard, unlike a Master brush. You'll know you'll at least get to try it out with your money, and if trying it out pays off, you'll have a work horse that'll continue to serve you well for a long time and through a lot of growth. If it doesn't, you can get most of your money back on Ebay (if not make a slight profit, if you used a good enough coupon when you bought it).

Craft paint is a gamble at anything smaller than .5. Some brands you might be able to spray with the right filtering and thinning, but don't bank on it a priori. As others have said, the pigment particles are too large and irregular.

If you're stuck with stuff from Michaels or Hobby Lobby, go for the Model Master or Aztek lines from Testors. Aztek is actually a decent airbrush paint, and is dirt cheap (especially with a coupon). Model Master is less cheap, and takes more fuss with thinners (don't thin it with water: use the Model Master or "Testors Universal Acrylic" Thinner only), but it has the particle size for airbrushing.

Expand your paint search to include Aaron Brothers, if there's one in your area. They're owned by the same parent company as Michaels, and have similar coupons. They carry Golden High-Flow, so that's an opportunity to get it with coupons.

How many bottles are you looking to buy, if 3$ a bottle is too expensive? Consider studying color mixing, so you can get away with just a handful of primary colors (5 colors is the minimum from which nearly anything else can be mixed, if you learn how). That way you can afford to spend more per bottle instead of spreading the same budget out across many.

 

[Malky]

I checked both the nozzle and the needle and nothing was out of place their and I cleaned both . I was a at a point were I would basically fill the cup mostly with water and add a drop of paint. ( pretty much just paint water) and it still no color would come out and at this point no water either just air and maybe one or two drops of water. and as for colors I am using a pastel blue color for testing and practicing on an old Iguanadon model toy I have.

As for the nozzle O-Ring nothing seems to be wrong with it ,and is sitting were it should be. Also I do not get any bubbles in the cup unless I cover the end to blow the air in to the cup to get paint out of the needle area.

I sorry but I don't know what tip dry is exactly. an also I only have one thing off black paint I use with a brush for painting eyes and other fine details with a paintbrush. then I mostly blues, purples and pale grays.

And could anyone recommend some airbrush paint brands . I don't know a lot about the different brands ,but while researching the Airbrush itself the names that come up most are Wicked colors and Createx. So are these really good quality ? and would they work on plastic?

I have a feeling your just going to have to accept you ended up with a dud, it happens a lot with these brushes as Ronald said I'm afraid, when things go wrong with these brushes it generally stays wrong and nothing much will fix it, no point at all in throwing money at it either, if you work your doing (or trying to do) with it is what you intend to continue doing have a look at Badger airbrushes, these seem to be very popular among modelers and from what I've seen some folks here have been producing some incredible art with them, they are very reasonably priced, and what's more important, if you have any problem with a Badger airbrush, Badger provide amazing after sales service and and stand by their products 100%, no matter how long you own your brush.

As for paints, a lot of modelers use Tamiya or Vallejo model paints when doing your type of work but if you don't fancy these I think wicked would give you best performance, paints like etac or com-art intended for finer artwork would most likely give problems with adhesion without additives, whatever you choose, you are best to stick to paints specifically made for airbrushes, these can also be brushed if you need to do that for small items.