Need recommendations for clear coating a wood surface

S

Simon

Guest
Hey fellow artists! I need your help for something. I' ve never done a clear coat by myself, but a guy showed me real quick how to do it today. Don't know why in scared to do it myself, it looks kinda easy. But here's the thing... i got some poker tables to airbrush. The part that i will paint is the wood surface (5-6 inches large ) between the cushion and the cloth, all around the table.

So what kind of clear or lacquer must i use?It needs be strong enough to protect the art from drinks, knocks from beer bottles, poker chips and pretty much everything else you can imagine. :p ...And compatible with Wicked and AA , because i can't use HoK at home.. i'm not stupid enough.. yet!
Thx big time in advance for your help!
Lil' Simonay;)
 
Let it totally dry, like 48 hours even, also a few light costs of a mix of transparent base and reducer as an inter coat is a good option. I do this all the time now . Had a few projects lose definition when urethane clear went on.

After waiting 24-48 hours cost with polyurethane or spar varnish and a foam brush, or spray can. As long as the paint is cured it should be fine.

I just used a lacquer sanding sealer on maple, airbrushed and inter coated, just cleared with urethane today.


As an extra strong topcoat you could also always get bar top epoxy.
 
Let it totally dry, like 48 hours even, also a few light costs of a mix of transparent base and reducer as an inter coat is a good option. I do this all the time now . Had a few projects lose definition when urethane clear went on.

After waiting 24-48 hours cost with polyurethane or spar varnish and a foam brush, or spray can. As long as the paint is cured it should be fine.

I just used a lacquer sanding sealer on maple, airbrushed and inter coated, just cleared with urethane today.


As an extra strong topcoat you could also always get bar top epoxy.
Kewl! So, i can paint directly on the wood, put a layer of intertcoat of transparant Base mix with reducer, wait 48hrs than put a polyurethane clearcoat and after a bar epoxy to protect it from the end of days!

How many layers of poly. Clear should i put? The wood must absorbing it alot, so i imagine it needs a couple..
Thanks alot by the way! Your tips makess me more confident
 
If the wood is already coated, I am assuming it is, just scuff and paint. Then all the other stuff. You can either poly or epoxy, you won't need both, marine spar car is works well too. I would think 3-4 coats of poly, if it's thin or textured , you can use steel wool or 600 grit wet dry sand paper and smooth it out some and re coat with poly. You can also get lemon oil , some 1000 grit wet/dry paper, and wetsand the poly for a smooth finish and then polish like automotive clear.
 
If the wood is already coated, I am assuming it is, just scuff and paint. Then all the other stuff. You can either poly or epoxy, you won't need both, marine spar car is works well too. I would think 3-4 coats of poly, if it's thin or textured , you can use steel wool or 600 grit wet dry sand paper and smooth it out some and re coat with poly. You can also get lemon oil , some 1000 grit wet/dry paper, and wetsand the poly for a smooth finish and then polish like automotive clear.
Niiiice! Thx wmlepage, your the best! .. as for the LAST question, if the wood is not coated before i paint, do you recommand to coat it first or paint directly on it? ..and if i need to coat it first, is it the same clear (poly. Or uro) or a different one? ... Sorry about all this, im quite perfectionist in nature, so im use to ask 1000 questions before my first try with something, feel lika virgin!!
 
I would coat it in polyurethane first. I did some art with acrylics in an oak wine bottle box that was not pre sealed, and in some spots the oak absorbed the paint and bled (mostly in and around the grain. I had to sand it out, poly it, and repaint. The extra work will be worth it.
 
You want sanding sealer on bare wood first. Its avaialable all over. I would sanding seal then poly then let that cure and art as Wayne pointed out.
 
What the sanding sealer does is one, fills the pores, then it raises the nap of the wood which you sand smooth. Now it wont bleed or absorb paint differently, you could likely paint right on the sealer and be ok but id never risk it.
 
Holy crap! Its more prep than i could imagine! But thanks again to all of you, these tricks are precious! ;) Can't wait to try that!
 
Its not that bad actually. Sanding sealer goes on easy, and sanding the wood takes minutes.
 
Yeah.. you're right Nada! Less worst than i thought it would be!!:p
 
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