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needle polish

Discussion in 'Techniques, Textures, Tips & Tricks!' started by boneman65, Mar 12, 2015.

  1. Spritz

    Spritz Triple Actioner

    Apr 23, 2019
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    30 miles east of Cleveland, Ohio
    @Ronald art , Wow breaks when you drop it. Sounds like a super high carbon or tungsten. Thank you for the reply, I kind of figured things had changed over the past 5 years. That's why i was a little ticked at myself for not noticing the posting dates. till after I posted.
    Thanks Mr.Micron and DaveG also.
    jord001 likes this.
  2. Nessus

    Nessus Needle-chuck Ninja

    Oct 10, 2014
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    San Diego
    The K33 needle is an aftermarket replacement needle for the Iwata Custom Micron. They are still made, and available here:

    They're polished to a higher degree than a stock needle, and have a special surface treatment that's supposed to make the polished surface more scratch resistant and hydrophobic. The idea is they're more tip-dry resistant than a stock needle (including a re-polished one). I have one, and can confirm that it can spray longer than a stock needle before you need to wipe the tip. They're not immune to tip dry, but you can go almost twice the time between wipes.

    They're polished to match the nozzle in the sense that they have the same taper pitch as the original Micron needle, and thus the stock Micron nozzle. They aren't polished to match the texture of the nozzle, or matched to a specific individual nozzle anything like that.

    I polished the stock needles for both my Eclipse and my SOTAR, and lapped the nozzles as well. I just used a basic polishing paste compound (Flitz). For the needles, I chucked them in my Dremmel and used a paper towel greased with Flitz. I don't recommend doing it this way unless you've got a hands-free bench mount of some sort for the Dremmel (I have the drill press attachment), and a foot pedal switch. You want to make sure you're holding the needle gently but firmly throughout so it doesn't wobble away from the spin axis and bend. Yo can do it by hand though no problem, a power tool just makes it go faster.

    To lap them, I take the nozzle off the brush, push the needle a bit forward, apply a little polishing compound to the tip, then drop the nozzle over it and screw or clamp it down with the nozzle cap so it's all seated properly in the same position as during normal operation. Twist the needle back and forth like 50 times to lap. Take the nozzle back off, and remove the needle through the front, not the back (so as to avoid dragging polishing compound through the brush body, packing, etc.). Clean the needle and nozzle thoroughly with a grease-cutting solvent. Soak the nozzle, and blow it out well. Basically the same sort of cleaning you'd do going from solvent-based to water-based paint.

    Unless you actually damage the nozzle or needle, IMO you should only need to polish them once in their entire operational lifetime.
    jord001 and huskystafford like this.

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