Needle size
- Thread starter Marty
- Start date
I apologize it is for a master G23Hi Martin, Knowing what brushes You are using might help someone help You out
I dont think these cheaper brushes mark Their setups, so trying to find something along the lines of fishing line that meaures .2, .3 .5 using a set of calipers or looking at the nozzles under a microscope might be the only way. as for the needles, they may all be the same diameter and it might be only the length of the taper that differs, longer taper for the .2, shorter for the .5. Please take this advice as guesswork only others may be able to offer proper help later
Ok. Thank you so much for your help. Like I said, I am new to all this. In your opinion, what is a good mid range airbrush for a beginner?I dont think these cheaper brushes mark Their setups, so trying to find something along the lines of fishing line that meaures .2, .3 .5 using a set of calipers or looking at the nozzles under a microscope might be the only way. as for the needles, they may all be the same diameter and it might be only the length of the taper that differs, longer taper for the .2, shorter for the .5. Please take this advice as guesswork only others may be able to offer proper help later
2Diverse
Stick a fork in him, he's done.
I don't have a Master brush so I can't help you specifically. I will try to help you sort them. I would first look to see if there is some type of markings on them. Some companies stamp a number, some use rings or notches.
How many combinations do you have?
How many combinations do you have?
There is a .2,.3,.5. I’m all for getting a better brush but with so many options I’m not sure What to get. I’m really enjoying this new adventure
and the helpful people here. I don’t see any markings on them anywhere
2Diverse
Stick a fork in him, he's done.
Three will make it a bit tougher or at least take longer.
The nozzles should be fairly easy to determine by looking at the hole size. I'd lay them out in order.
I would then take a needle and GENTLY insert it into a nozzle. Look to see how much sticks out of the nozzle, if any. By doing this you should be able to tell which needle goes with which nozzle as they should all have about the same amount protruding.
The nozzles should be fairly easy to determine by looking at the hole size. I'd lay them out in order.
I would then take a needle and GENTLY insert it into a nozzle. Look to see how much sticks out of the nozzle, if any. By doing this you should be able to tell which needle goes with which nozzle as they should all have about the same amount protruding.
That makes total sense. I will definitely try that. Thank you so much everybody.
tatocorvette
Detail Decepticon!
Hello,
As a general guideline, usually the heavier the setup (larger) the more pronounced the taper. That can be used as a starting point. The nozzles are easier to sort with a magnifying glass.
There is some confusion out there about nozzle sizes. The main purpose is not to determine how thin a line you can make. It does have an impact on that, but primarily the reason is to accommodate different media viscosities. The thicker the paint the heavier a setup you'll need. For example: India ink is very thin and flows fine thru the small nozzle. Ceramic glaze is very thick and requires a large nozzle.
As for airbrush recommendations, that will depend on your intended use, availability of parts and service in your area and most importantly personal preference. Size, weight, type, etc.
I always recommend the Badger 150 as a general purpose airbrush, as it can do pretty much everything.
What is your primary intended use?
*EDIT* By the way, pretty much any airbrush can perform brilliantly if properly setup, adjusted and cleaned.
Thanks,
Ismael
As a general guideline, usually the heavier the setup (larger) the more pronounced the taper. That can be used as a starting point. The nozzles are easier to sort with a magnifying glass.
There is some confusion out there about nozzle sizes. The main purpose is not to determine how thin a line you can make. It does have an impact on that, but primarily the reason is to accommodate different media viscosities. The thicker the paint the heavier a setup you'll need. For example: India ink is very thin and flows fine thru the small nozzle. Ceramic glaze is very thick and requires a large nozzle.
As for airbrush recommendations, that will depend on your intended use, availability of parts and service in your area and most importantly personal preference. Size, weight, type, etc.
I always recommend the Badger 150 as a general purpose airbrush, as it can do pretty much everything.
What is your primary intended use?
*EDIT* By the way, pretty much any airbrush can perform brilliantly if properly setup, adjusted and cleaned.
Thanks,
Ismael
I am attempting some canvas drawing, but primarily painting models. Thank you so much for your advice. It is very helpful.
2Diverse
Stick a fork in him, he's done.
I googled the Master 23. It looks to be a gravity feed with a C cup.
To try to give you an idea what brush may be good for you we need to know a few things.
Do you prefer gravity, siphon or side feed, or it doesn't make a difference.
What do you plan to paint?
What paint are you using?
Are you looking for detail or broad coverage?
I would guess you have a compressor. What psi (or bars) do you spray at?
Knowing where you are located would be helpful also, once recommendations start.
To try to give you an idea what brush may be good for you we need to know a few things.
Do you prefer gravity, siphon or side feed, or it doesn't make a difference.
What do you plan to paint?
What paint are you using?
Are you looking for detail or broad coverage?
I would guess you have a compressor. What psi (or bars) do you spray at?
Knowing where you are located would be helpful also, once recommendations start.
tatocorvette
Detail Decepticon!
For scale models there are two cult following airbrushes: The Badger 150, the Badger 200 and the Paasche H (OK, 3 then)
The g23 is a top gravity feed ,the compressor paints at 25 psi and I’m using Artme airbrush paint. I am painting models and drawing on canvas. I am new to, so I am still learning. I appreciate all of the advice and help. Seems like I can’t get the thickness of the paint and the air pressure to match either the gun clogs up or the paint splatters. Maybe I just need to get some better quality air brushes ? Again thank you for your help. Truly appreciated
2Diverse
Stick a fork in him, he's done.
I'm not familiar with the paint. Water or solvent based? Water based does have a learning curve.
Canvas and models are two different things. Are you talking plastic scale models? I used to build them. Your air pressure may be too high for the canvas, depending on which needle/nozzle/air cap combo you are using.
When you decide to look for another brush let me know. I'm not a member of a cult. I prefer diversity.
Canvas and models are two different things. Are you talking plastic scale models? I used to build them. Your air pressure may be too high for the canvas, depending on which needle/nozzle/air cap combo you are using.
When you decide to look for another brush let me know. I'm not a member of a cult. I prefer diversity.
tatocorvette
Detail Decepticon!
Hi,
Make sure the airbrush is clean. Dried paint inside can cause it to mis-behave. One test you can make is running just paint thinner (or airbrush cleaner) thru it and see how it does. If it sputters and pulsates with thinner only it can indicate an air leak or an internal clog.
Also, since you mentioned at the beginning about the needles and nozzles, make sure they are not mixed up.
Even if the paint says airbrush ready, thinning is usually a good idea. If you are thinning the paint, make sure it is thoroughly mixed before putting it into the airbrush and watch for any lumps or stuff that may clog the airbrush.
Do you have any control over the pressure? While not outrageous, I think 25psi may be a bit on the high side.
Thanks,
Ismael
Make sure the airbrush is clean. Dried paint inside can cause it to mis-behave. One test you can make is running just paint thinner (or airbrush cleaner) thru it and see how it does. If it sputters and pulsates with thinner only it can indicate an air leak or an internal clog.
Also, since you mentioned at the beginning about the needles and nozzles, make sure they are not mixed up.
Even if the paint says airbrush ready, thinning is usually a good idea. If you are thinning the paint, make sure it is thoroughly mixed before putting it into the airbrush and watch for any lumps or stuff that may clog the airbrush.
Do you have any control over the pressure? While not outrageous, I think 25psi may be a bit on the high side.
Thanks,
Ismael
Yes, it’s a water-based paint. Would I be better off with something else? I am building plastic scale models, and I have been looking at the badger 150. People seem to like that one. I wanted to learn on a cheaper brush first it’s like learning the guitar just because you get a better one doesn’t mean you can play better. So thankful for all the help I am receiving here. Thank you.
2Diverse
Stick a fork in him, he's done.
To use your guitar analogy it seems to me that if you have a poorly made guitar you would probably spend quite a bit of time retuning it whereas a better one would probably stay in tune longer.
I'm not saying your airbrush isn't any good. Just that there are better ones depending on what you want to do.
I don't have a 150 and have no experience with one. Closest I've used is a Thayer & Chandler Vega 2000. For all intents and purposes it's a Badger brush. More comparable to the 155 Anthem I believe.
I'm not saying your airbrush isn't any good. Just that there are better ones depending on what you want to do.
I don't have a 150 and have no experience with one. Closest I've used is a Thayer & Chandler Vega 2000. For all intents and purposes it's a Badger brush. More comparable to the 155 Anthem I believe.
OK I stand corrected. I will buy a new one.
