Neo CN cleaning, what am I doing wrong?

[Ash]

Neo CN cleaning, what am I doing wrong? (solved)

I'm using Liquitex Airbrush Medium, Liquitex Matte Medium, and Liquitex Matte Varnish coupled with Liquitex Basics acrylics and distilled water dilution.
My airbrush is an Iwata Neo CN (gravity feed).

I'd dismantle it and clean it using 91% isopropyl and one of those medium (not necessarily soft but not wire) brush sets, I fully rinse every piece with water so as not to let the alcohol set. After as few as 20 uses the airbrush began spewing medium out of the trigger area causing a big mess. I read about the needle packing o-ring (PTFE) and needle packing screw, ordered replacements assuming this was the issue. When I installed the new packing o-ring it was obvious I wore this thing into the ground with how I was cleaning it.

The airbrush worked fine again, no more back assembly spewage. Numerous sites state all you need to do to clean your airbrush is flush cleaner until it runs clear. I purchased Iwata Medea cleaner and tested this, after it ran clear I flushed alcohol which revealed paint. I decided to disassemble everything and there was residue in my needle chucking guide which tells me somehow medium is -still- getting into the back assembly.

So I bought a second Neo CN, thinking I could compare the two and see if the first one needed to be shipped for technical assistance. My second airbrush after the first use also had residue in the back assembly...

So my question is, what am I doing wrong? Is back assembly residue a common thing, should I expect to have to disassemble everything every time I use my airbrush? These airbrushes are some of the cheaper so I'm wondering if this is a "you get what you pay for" situation. If so, do you have any suggestions about a different airbrush I should try purchasing?

Thank you for taking the time to read.

 

[Squishy]

I've never used the Neo, but although it says Iwata on it, I believe it is made for Iwata, rather than made by Iwata, to give a cheap alternative to buying the knock off brushes. Lots of people have them so I am sure they are a good introduction brush, but I would imagine they are not as well made. The proper Iwata guns don't have the same o-ring issues as these are made of Teflon. If you are using anything non waterbased to clean with, it will swell ordinary O-rings and can instantly damage them, so you need to avoid anything too harsh. I would suggest slightly tightening your needle packing screw, to help with keeping paint where it should be, but you say you have replaced one. Is it possible it just needs adjusting? A tiny quarter turn can make a big difference. Also you can be pulling paint through (particularly if the o-ring is damaged) when you take your needle out. Some people remove from the front to avoid this. You should not need to completely strip your gun each time you use it, I just remove and clean the needle clean the cup, flush through, and then replace the needle. Hopefully someone familiar with the Neo can point you in the right direction.

 

[Madbrush]

Hi Ash

I have had a Neo for over a year now, never had problem with it, but it sounds like (partly as Squishy says) your cleaning fluid is maybe a little too aggressive, I've never used anything other than water based paints, and never ever use solvent based cleaners, the seals are indeed sensitive to solvents.

Again as Squishy said, try adjusting the seal screw in the trigger cavity, always a tiny amount at a time, if you go too far your needle can stick open and even worse could ruin the seal.

Check out Mitch's airbrush maintenance video for handy tips, generally you should only have to strip your brush in extreme situations or for periodic maintenance, I clean with a water based cleaner and flush till the fluid is clean, I only remove the needle if I've had a clog and always from the front.

Your Neo will serve you well if you get to know it properly, you can't get the detail you can with a micron, but you can still have a lot of fun.

 

[Ash]

Squishy: Thank you for the information about tightening the needle packing screw. I have replaced #1's (the first Neo) but #2 (my second Neo) I used from the factory package so I was surprised it too had this issue, even before I ever ran cleaner through it. I am happy to know I shouldn't have to fully dismantle every time. I agree it seems better to pull the needle from the front, I did read a few people mention its fickleness with the tiny screw on wrenched tip this airbrush has. Thank you for your advice!

Madbrush: I'm glad to hear you are using your Neo with no issues, they're so lightweight and gorgeous I love them! I hadn't realized the isopropyl alcohol could cause swelling of the PTFE, in body piercing we use PTFE tubing for surface piercings so that's where I made the assumption it would be safe. :O What kind of cleaner would you suggest for another artist using only acrylic emulsions? I tried Createx and it didn't seem to clean anything, that's when I switched to alcohol. I just purchased some Medea airbrush cleaner but I haven't gotten to use it much yet.

Ah I see you remove the tip every time and pull your needle from the front, that seemed like the best idea so I'll have to stick with that technique. I will surely check out the video you've mentioned, I appreciate your time!

 

[Madbrush]

Hi Ash, I'm not sure where you are, but I bought my cleaner here in Holland and all I know is it is based on sunflower oil and demineralised water, specially made for cleaning your airbrush after using water based paints, basically your supplier can tell you what is best for your needs.

Another tip is, if I'm working for longer periods I'll generally clean every couple of hours by just rinsing through, if your doing a lot of colour changes, you'll do that anyway, but since water based paints are generally quicker drying and more likely to clog I'll do it if working long periods with one colour.

 

[Squishy]

Hi Ash, I'm not sure where you are, but I bought my cleaner here in Holland and all I know is it is based on sunflower oil and demineralised water, specially made for cleaning your airbrush after using water based paints, basically your supplier can tell you what is best for your needs.

Another tip is, if I'm working for longer periods I'll generally clean every couple of hours by just rinsing through, if your doing a lot of colour changes, you'll do that anyway, but since water based paints are generally quicker drying and more likely to clog I'll do it if working long periods with one colour.

Hey MB, where ya been

 

[ko.]

Nothing dries out rubber seals quicker than isopropyl alcohol .. Use denatured, cut with purified water amd a little window cleaner without amonia. (found at auto supply)

 

[Ash]

Thank you Ko. I remove all rubber seals before using 91% alcohol to clean my airbrush, the seal inside is PTFE.

It's been awhile since I posted in reply because I sent the airbrushes to their factory for inspection, I felt the leaking was not an intended feature.
The airbrushes were returned to me with a note, the chucking screw had been tightened (I know someone replied suggesting this). I was provided a plastic syringe with an angular tip to reach some spots that hold paint deposits.

Medea Airbrush Cleaner is what I've used since I got them back, this is the manufacturer's suggested brand. After about five times of using the syringe and rinsing it thoroughly after use, the piece that fits into the syringe to create the vacuum simply gets stuck. At one point I had to pry the rubber seal out since it was lodged into the cylinder. I wondered if the rubber seal had become swollen by the product this company suggests, considering it was the only product I used within this tool.

I decided to do a little experiment, using 16MM rubber seals and multiple cleaning solutions. The Medea Airbrush Cleaner did not cause swelling...

Now, I store the Medea Airbrush Cleaner in a (plastic) salon quality bottle generally intended for hair dye. The second day I noticed it began leaking. I removed the lid to the bottle and inspected the rubber seals for any warping or swelling, nothing looked out of the ordinary. Today when I picked up the bottle and the pour cap along with the interior plastic of the bottle (threaded area) completely fell off. I tried to provide images but I'm not allowed to yet, I mean it literally corroded a clean cut underneath the threads of the plastic bottle with the pour cap in tact. Now I'm confused because the bottle it came in is plastic, and as before mentioned the seal inside my airbrush is PTFE so what is this product doing to the inside of my airbrush? Could this product be causing, if not more than alcohol would, harm to my airbrush? If this solution is causing warping in plastic could it be the reason the syringe stopped fitting within itself properly?

I was not using this cleaner previous to sending my airbrushes in, I understand why the seals needed to be replaced from my original mistakes.
This is just all sort of confusing for me, I'm not sure if anyone else has had these situations arise. I'm still finding paint in the back of my assembly after one use, but I was told "these airbrushes are made that way, it will not affect the quality of your work".

I plan on calling the company tomorrow and asking their opinion on this situation, if they have another brand of cleaner they might suggest. Createx doesn't seem as harsh but it also doesn't clean my acrylics well.

 

[Ash]

Just wanted to give an update and solution for my problem!
I began mixing my paints in disposable caps instead of within the color cup. Cleaning is a breeze now, I'm a happy little newbie. ♥

 

[Mr.Micron]

Now since you have your problem fixed how about a nice introduction to tells us more about you.
Like what country or state you live in , How long you been airbrushing.

Also Airbrush Restorer is the best thing to soak the nozzle in. It is made by Createx and last forever because you can reuse it.

You only need to soak the nozzle due to that is where all the paint drys. The rest of the brush mainly is just wipe it out good and look for any paint deposits.