noon questions

J

Jezurus

Guest
I have been reading posts but still have questions, first off I am running wicked paint through a .21 tip at 20psi, using w500 reducer, after 5 min or so I am battling terrible tip dry, so:
How can I stop this?
How do I clean the tip without damage?
What is the normal cleaning procedure for the airbrush?
How often should I do a full tear down on my brush?
Since I have been using the W500 the paint has been much harder to clean out of the color cup and off the tip, even had some dryed inside he tip, hard to get out!
Thanks in advance!!
 
Tip dry is a hard nut to crack. While I am painting I use a wetted sponge, a great idea I got from Seamonkey via this video;
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I usually do a quick cleanout after every session but do a full breakdown clean after about 5 sessions (everyones different when it comes to how often they do a full break down clean), but this is what I do :).
A good thing to have is a Restorer; http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=690 . Just soak your nozzle in that and sometimes that will loosen up any buildup of paint.
Hope that helps a little bit :) Good luck
 
I use the latex makeup sponges moistened with reducer or water for the tip dry. The HP reducer means a harder cure (so I've been told) which is what you're seeing in the cup. I just wait the cups empty then a damp lint free cloth and wipe around the inside of the cup. Dump anything out of the cup, don't blow it through. Less chance of a loose chunk blocking or damaging the needle /nozzle.

And someone should 'stick' that video in the beginners section. I saw it when I first started and used ALL the info on there. As much as we throw poo at Josh, it's an awesome intro for newbies
 
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Great idea with. The sponge! Is he painting on a dry erase board? That would be tough for me, thanks for the info!!
 
Tip dry and airbrushing go hand in hand. Over reducing can help. With Createx paints a simple mix of reducer and transparent base can make all the difference. This allows the pigments to spread out more. Also keeping the air on after you let off for paint keeps most of the paint off the needle. Noting will stop it totally. Best to learn to adjust to it and you'll hart notice eventually.
 
Great idea with. The sponge! Is he painting on a dry erase board? That would be tough for me, thanks for the info!!
It's a glass frame he nicked from mrs monkey. I got one from a cheap shop for $5. It works a treat. Every now and then I give it a thorough clean with windex. If you get it right in the glass you can paint in any surface
 
For me, Wicked has aweful tip dry. I don't know how much Wicked paint you have, but personally, if I start doing hard surface work, I'll be using ETAC Private Stock. You may want to try some, ETAC is much better with tip dry.
 
I use an old babies tooth brush, and while airbrushing, swipe my needle when needed. I also ALWAYS add the reducer FIRST, so as no paint has time to dry in the cup. As far as when to clean (total tear down), that depends on how much your using it. Depending on my jobs, I have to totally clean them twice a week. But, im airbrushing big stuff, and run my guns on the average of 8hrs a day. *ALSO, when I do the total tear down, I soak them in restorer. *BUT* make sure you take ALL the parts off/out, including all RUBBER/PLASTIC, restorer eats that poop up!!
 
Tip dry is the curse of all airbrushers [ I know, except urethane junkies! ] and we have all got our ways of dealing with it.
It is habitual, even if there's no evidence of paint on the needle point, for me to pick it off every couple of minutes or so.
I also find a dental brush, the small, round kind, useful and I give the point a wipe with that.
I dip it into a small bottle of cleaner /restorer fluid, then brush down both sides.
Check it's clean, then back to it.
 
It's a glass frame he nicked from mrs monkey. I got one from a cheap shop for $5. It works a treat. Every now and then I give it a thorough clean with windex. If you get it right in the glass you can paint in any surface
He's painting on glass???? Holy crap, now that would be a trick for me, I guess Ill have to give it a go !
 
I use an old babies tooth brush, and while airbrushing, swipe my needle when needed. I also ALWAYS add the reducer FIRST, so as no paint has time to dry in the cup. As far as when to clean (total tear down), that depends on how much your using it. Depending on my jobs, I have to totally clean them twice a week. But, im airbrushing big stuff, and run my guns on the average of 8hrs a day. *ALSO, when I do the total tear down, I soak them in restorer. *BUT* make sure you take ALL the parts off/out, including all RUBBER/PLASTIC, restorer eats that poop up!!
Good advice! Painting 8 hours a day?sign me up !:malicious: I know it would be a lot harder than it sounds but I would love to make a living doing art!
 
Tip dry is the curse of all airbrushers [ I know, except urethane junkies! ] and we have all got our ways of dealing with it.
It is habitual, even if there's no evidence of paint on the needle point, for me to pick it off every couple of minutes or so.
I also find a dental brush, the small, round kind, useful and I give the point a wipe with that.
I dip it into a small bottle of cleaner /restorer fluid, then brush down both sides.
Check it's clean, then back to it.
Thanks for the advice Splasha, my wife picked up some make up sponges last night, they seem to work pretty good, I've really got to pay attention to the paint to reducer ratio, I've seen 4:1 and 3:1, 4:1 seems better, just hard. To keep it straight on larger mixes.
For me, Wicked has aweful tip dry. I don't know how much Wicked paint you have, but personally, if I start doing hard surface work, I'll be using ETAC Private Stock. You may want to try some, ETAC is much better with tip dry.
For me, Wicked has aweful tip dry. I don't know how much Wicked paint you have, but personally, if I start doing hard surface work, I'll be using ETAC Private Stock. You may want to try some, ETAC is much better with tip dry.
I have checked out the etac page, looks like good paint I'll have to try some!
 
I use the wicked and the W500 reducer and get virtually no tip dry, even with white. Opaque black I find is the worst, and after 5 mins or so I do have to clean the tip, I just pinch it off withe the nails on thumb and forefinger.

I am using a larger nozzle (.35), and I am at around give or take, 20 psi, so I think 20 may be a bit high for you. I think that for a smaller nozzle with less paint coming out, you may need to use more reducer and less air. The more air the more it will dry the paint, and as the reducer helps with tip dry more reducer should help too. It does mean more passes to get the effect you want, but that will also help with getting subtlety in your work and getting great blends. It's just a case of finding your own magic formula.

Or as different people get on better with different materials, a different paint may suit better. Ask a retailer for a sample. I did that with Etac and got a free one ounce bottle of sepia, which I did like, but not enough to switch from Wicked. Def worth trying though.
 
I use the wicked and the W500 reducer and get virtually no tip dry, even with white. Opaque black I find is the worst, and after 5 mins or so I do have to clean the tip, I just pinch it off withe the nails on thumb and forefinger.

I am using a larger nozzle (.35), and I am at around give or take, 20 psi, so I think 20 may be a bit high for you. I think that for a smaller nozzle with less paint coming out, you may need to use more reducer and less air. The more air the more it will dry the paint, and as the reducer helps with tip dry more reducer should help too. It does mean more passes to get the effect you want, but that will also help with getting subtlety in your work and getting great blends. It's just a case of finding your own magic formula.

Or as different people get on better with different materials, a different paint may suit better. Ask a retailer for a sample. I did that with Etac and got a free one ounce bottle of sepia, which I did like, but not enough to switch from Wicked. Def worth trying though.
Less air pressure may be the way to go, 20 psi seems very strong coming out of the nozzel, I'm using an old air pressure regulator I had laying around it may not be accurate, I will try reducing pressure today, and contact etac for a sample! Thank you!
 
Aim the nozzle at the back of your hand and push the trigger .. The 'air dent' should be minimal :)
 
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Aim the nozzle at the back of your hand and push the trigger .. The 'air dent' should be minimal :)
Good idea, I reduced the air pressure to 15 psi and further reduced the paint and it is flowing very well! I'll do the hand trick later tonight!
 
You can thank Mitch for that trick LOL I read it / saw it somewhere on his rare appearances [emoji4] I've now put external Mac valves on my brushes so now I'll be able to adjust easily
 
You can thank Mitch for that trick LOL I read it / saw it somewhere on his rare appearances [emoji4] I've now put external Mac valves on my brushes so now I'll be able to adjust easily

When using the MAC valve, you'll eventually just hear what pressure your at. It's slightly different for each brush, but it just becomes second nature after a while.
 
Like everything - the more you do it the less you have to think about it. I've still firmly got my 'noob' badge attached and I've just changed to soft springs and the external Mac valves. Yet to play, but I've just mapped out a challenge piece. Loads of detail and texture so with the exception of paint pal this will keep me busy for a few months. Weekends are the only time I get to play [emoji22]
 
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