Ok...I got few questions...


Michael Wieczynski

Ok...So some of you may have seen my first piece of art work...its not amazing...but...I got bored of doing dots, lines, and daggers...so I figured I would reward myself and just do an easy free hand skull...(easy lol)... So this was result...
However, I had a few things go weird...I noticed that on several occasions i would pull back on the trigger and nothing would come out. I would have to blast a at the bottom of the paper and then wholla things would start flowing again. Plus it seemed like there was some inconsistency in the amount of pull back to get paint to flow.
Allot of the skull that I painted is the way it is because of mistake/mishap cover ups......Hence some of the overly dark shading on the forehead area... Then I had some serious issues when switching to white...first I lost dual action...it was delivering paint regardless of pulling back or not.... I figured it out....when I switched colors I did a total tear down and clean/lube...then when I put the needle back in I guess I didnt get it totally flush with the nozzle.. I am terrified to push to hard as I often break things that way... So at least I was able to troubleshoot that one myself....Here are the questions...

When switching colors is it totally necessary to do a full l break down and clean? If not what is the process?
When cleaning is it cool to use soap and water at the sink or should I be sticking to acetone or something?
Why is it that some of my lines tended to look as though faded or blurred over time?
Why do i seem to have an inconsistency in paint flow or trigger pull to get pain to flow?
Why when I pull back sometimes there is no paint flow at all?

I would have to go to the bottom of the page and test stroke before I went into the skull, but even then sometimes things weren't consistant...
Answer 1, no. Its not necessary to tear apart your gun every time you change colors. Just run some cleaner through your gun. (What paint)
2, when in a pinch, I just use HOT water, pulling the trigger back n forth to get paint out.
3, paint flow, sounds as though its not reduced enough for the needle size.
That seems to me what would be your problem, is not reduced enough, or tip is plugged? (Cant remember what gun you have)
I guess I should have mentioned that...its an Iwata Eclipse...running at 42 PSI, using Createx Wicked paints..

I dont know if the tip is clogged but a blast at the bottom of the page of my art would clear it...

alos fine lines were really hard to get light...like i felt like my fine lines were always 100%
Ok answers in no particular order.

Between colors i simply flush with water, if im switching to white, i will use a paint brush and water and clean the cup good. Fill backflush dump fill spray til clear.

No paint coming out then gushing out is paint beggining to clog, it is normal to have to blast paint every so often. Also tip dry needs to be dealt with fairly often with blaxk and white.

No need to push the needle hard, gent till it stops and rotate it a little. I think you need to get your nozzle one good cleaning.

Lines fading overvtime? Likely you are on paper and reduced, the reducer soaks in to paper and reduxes vibrancy.

with my iwata end of the day, i pull my nozzle and needle, wipe it all down and use denatured alchohol or ammonia free windex. Airbrush restorer rocks when i did use it.
You need to reduce your paint more. When I do black n white portraits? I use 20 drops reducer, 2 drops wicked black. Then I can "build" layers up. And, im not at 42psi, more like 25-30 for me
All of the above.
The finer detail you wish to achieve then the lower your pressure needs to be and the more you reduce the paint. A lot of portrait guys on here will use as low as 5psi with the .2mm needle or less and heavily reduced paint. As meesh has said 20:2 (reducer:paint) is not uncommon. Multiple layers building up slowly.

Look at me sounding like I know what I'm talking about!! ROFL
I have the same issues with ComArt paint with inconsistent paint flow. From reading here sounds like more reducer. Knew I should have ordered that quart of reducer instead of just 8 oz!
I learnt early .... (I use wicked detail and illustration) - BIG bottle of reducer and transparent base. Small bottle of paint. Any order I do includes BIG bottle of reducer

what do you reduce at...start point??
what do you reduce at...start point??
I'm not into the super fine detail as yet but have found 1 paint to 8 reducer seems ok for what I do. Black is more like 10-12 reducer
My PSI is normally around 15-20
Again I'm not fine artist --- yet LOL
When you say you use the Eclipse, which one? My Eclipse HP-BCS's (0.5) are syphon feed and have found that the reduction of paint through these is different to Gravity feed.
I reckon this is for two reasons.
1) A syphon feed needs higher PSI to make it work. (it has to have the paint sucked out of the bottle). If my paint is reduced the same as for my gravity feed brushes with the higher PSI it will just spider.
2) I use my HP-Bcs for blocking in colour of big jobs and need the coverage quickly.
Apart from the animals I have done recently all my pieces have been done with my HP-BCS's (0.5) and these brushes are quite capable of doing fine lines but I decided it was a waste of paint using them if I only wanted to use one of two drops of paint.
I know it's appealing to start with black. But when I started I found other (also good looking in monochrome works) colors like umber, Grey, Sophia etc to be more forgiving than pure black. Furthermore with black everyone knows black is black and you go too dark very quick.
All of the above - with maybe Sophia as the exception LOL:laugh:- apply in this case.
If things aren't going well, I'll always suspect a block first, then totally clean the cup, needle face and tip.
Backflush with water, watch the spray pattern with water, then load up and begin again.
Usually works for me.
At the end of the session, I'll put some Ammonia free windex [ couple of drops ] and clean the pot thoroughly.
So far, no major troubles with my CS.
Def sounds like a clog in the nozzle. Nozzles are tricksy little suckers. They look clean, and paint is coming out so it can't be blocked? But it's surprising what can get left in there, and causes problems for most people when they start out.

If you put your needle in and out gently, is it feeling spongy or sticky, or is your spray pattern not the right shape? Even now when l think it's clean, that's when l clean it again just to be sure.

mine only gets a tear down now and then as a treat :) Otherwise it's dump,wipe,backflush,dump,repeat,then spray water moving needle in and out and twisting now and then - done.

Reducing more will help the paint flow better, and lower air will give better control. With the same gun and paint l am at around 20psi with 4 or 5 drops reducer to paint give or take, depending on conditions, colour etc.

Are you using the wicked reducer? It doesn't work well with water.
I know it's appealing to start with black. But when I started I found other (also good looking in monochrome works) colors like umber, Grey, Sophia etc to be more forgiving than pure black. Furthermore with black everyone knows black is black and you go too dark very quick.

I agree. A lot of times instead of black, I'll mix my own black from the three primary colors. It gives a neutral color that can easily be shifted to the warm or cool side.