Orange peel texture??

B

boneman65

Guest
when spraying base coats and clear whats the major cause of orange-peel texture??
 
As MrM has indicated, it's usually an incompatibility problem between coats or paint types or contaminated paint or air supply.
These are the major culprits, but there may be more.
By eliminating these, the problem is usually fixed.
 
In my experience, providing the prep has been done correctly, but especially on clearcoating, orange peel is normally due to incorrect settings on gun sometimes combined with incorrect spray distance. ie if the distance is too far away the coating is not wet enough to flow out before it starts to set resulting in orange peel, This can be corrected by flatting etc depending on the substrate. Always best to check the spec for thinning ratio also due to ambient temperatures and humidity. The majority of vehicle finishers have to wet flat after application. On the flip side if the orange peel is cracked, then this is more likely to be an adhesion or contamination problem. Imho of course based on years of auto experience.
 
Hi there, i paint motorcycle helmets mostly. I certainly am not a professional even after about 8 years experience. Completely self taught, and consider myself to still be on a learning curve. I am extremely humbled by some of the awesome work i have seen on the forum. When spraying clear on my helmets i have NEVER been able to finish up with a surface that did not have SOME orange peel. I used to use spray cans but have switched to my full size spray gun. I have used different settings such as fan size, mixture flow, compressor psi settings, adding more thinners to my mixture, all to no avail. I still get some orange peel. Helmets are an extremely hard shape to spray as they are ball shaped and the spray initially hits in one spot, naturally , the part of the ball that is closest to you. So you have to be" ON THE BALL" so to speak, ( lol) in moving around the helmet and trying to maintain an even distance from the surface. The orange peel should not represent any bother if you are spraying a hard surface. Just get yourself a bowl of water with some washing up detergent in it. Soak some 1200, 1500, and 2000 wet and dry in t. Start with the 1200, then 1500 and finish with 2000. Your orange peel will be non existent , and you will have a perfectly flat smooth surface with a bit of shine already, even before you use your cut and polish cream . Finish with a good wax polish and you will have a rich deep shine you can be proud of. And guess what. NO ORANGE PEEL TO BE SEEN. Hope this helps you and anyone else reading it looking for information. It is just my experience and i learn something new every day. Keep looking, as there are many more helpful guys on here with much more know how than me. Cheers from down under.
 
XVwarrior hit the nail on the head. If you ever see orange peel its only from a couple issues. You NEED flow out. I tend to only use auto grade paints and clears for base and clear coats. When i used to paint cars, i was taught to shoot heavy and wet. You'd rather cut and buff out a few runs than to wet sand and block a whole car full of orange peel. Here's a pretty good video i've posted here before. This guy explains it pretty well.

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thanks guys.....i pretty well knew the answer but was wanting conformation....when i sprayed my macropoxy (i used for primer ) i had my pressure wrong and gun setting off.. that stuff is really hard when cured...lol...been sanding for weeks (so it seems) lol.. im about ready for my base coat ....shew what a job...lol..its like a building.. without a good foundation the rest will be crap.;)
 
Looks like these guys have you covered, but my 2 cents is that orange peel is basically paint that has started to dry as it hits the surface. So distance, temp, etc are all factors.
 
thanks guys.....i pretty well knew the answer but was wanting conformation....when i sprayed my macropoxy (i used for primer ) i had my pressure wrong and gun setting off.. that stuff is really hard when cured...lol...been sanding for weeks (so it seems) lol.. im about ready for my base coat ....shew what a job...lol..its like a building.. without a good foundation the rest will be crap.;)
Macropoxy what are you doing making it bullet proof. I bought a truck that was primed with that stuff and even sand blasting that stuff felt like it took weeks.
 
Macropoxy what are you doing making it bullet proof. I bought a truck that was primed with that stuff and even sand blasting that stuff felt like it took weeks.
it was free Herb... i work for a coatings company i also have like 5 gals of imron poly clear...:laugh::laugh:
 
oh and im spraying over old hd clears and bases the sherwin rep got me a deal on my base coat so they recomended the FREE macropoxy as a primer so far it seems to be keeping the old stuff where it should be attached to substrate....lol
 
This might be of help (though it probably comes a bit late :p). The guys that normaly take care of 2k clearcoating for me sometimes use a dryer (thing they use to shrink plastic around wires on the bikes so its considerably hotter than a hair dryer :D) on the 2k to get it flow out nicely (they do tend to do this reasonably soon after clearing so not sure if that will still work after a day or so)
 
This might be of help (though it probably comes a bit late :p). The guys that normaly take care of 2k clearcoating for me sometimes use a dryer (thing they use to shrink plastic around wires on the bikes so its considerably hotter than a hair dryer :D) on the 2k to get it flow out nicely (they do tend to do this reasonably soon after clearing so not sure if that will still work after a day or so)
im not even close to clear as of yet im still sanding the primer the bike was in rough shape an 87 H-D FLH there is 10 pieces that get paint i will post some picts when i get the time....time is consumed by my stoopid job...lol...so i hardly get time to work on bike..
 
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