That looks killer, really cool look. My 9yr old son asked if I will paint his deck, now that he's seen this. He even stripped it down and started the prep,
. He's changed his mind on the theme twice already. 0.o
One thing though, on the 1500 grit...I never go much finer than 800 wet/dry, or the next layer of clear doesn't have as much to
bite to. 800's fine enough for the clear to fill, but rough enough to have some valleys for the paint to grip on to. I use the red 3M scuff-pads(I forget the grit) on edges and corners.
Your data sheets for the clear should have both, a time window to re-shoot
and the recommended grit of sandpaper to use between coats, if it's been too long.
Paint either has to adhere mechanically, or chemically. If you are past the time window to re-clear and have it
melt into the under-layer, then you should give a mechanical "tooth" to bite to. (you may already know this, but just to put it out there for anyone new to using a clearcoat...)
Check for each paint system you use, but, here's the info from the tech sheet for last clear I used, just as an example. We really had to stop and figure out our paint schedule after we sat down and read this,
.
APPLICATION:
Apply EC100 in three (3) wet coats as necessary to achieve the desired build, allowing ten
(10) minutes flash time between coats (+/- depending on air flow and temperature).
RECOAT WINDOW:
EC100 should not be recoated more than one hour after the completion of the previous
coat. If more than one hour has elapsed, wait 6-8 hours (depending on air flow and
temperature) before recoating. After 24 hours, EC100 may be recoated, but only after the
surface has been abraded with 600-800 grit sandpaper to promote sufficient adhesion.
I've seen guys use 1500 or finer and not have problems, but it could cause issues if this is something that will get used.
Again, nice job. I really like the leading edge not just being a pile of flames. It looks believable.
