paashe tallon

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started off with 16 dollar ebay cheapy. just got a tallon. sooooo much better. but the smallest needle was damaged in transet,as was the replacement i got. it came with a mini spray atachment. i love it. i am waiting for my iwata touch up gun for candys and clear coat on small stuff. i notice the pros all use iwata microns. when i start makin some coin out of airbrushing i guess i'll get one. guess it depends on what you are doing, if this is a hobby or just for fun. or if this is a sorce of income. if your making money out of it you can buy all the awesome tools.
 
Hi There,
What a bugger that both needles were damaged. :upset: I have had some success strightening a bent needle tip by rolling it gently between the ripples on the end of my plyers, then giving it a light rub on some 2000 grit wet-n-dry. I also use cheap asian airbrushes while I save up for my Iwata Eclipse.... (Dreamy)..... Would love to hear how you get on with the Paashe Tallon. :glee:
 
I use a talon, it's my first airbrush so I have nothing to compare it too. I have had some problems with the tips, the threading seems to be weak or something. I would like to get an Iwata in the future to compare them. I'd like to know how your talon goes. Thanks.


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Mike Learn (creator of the MoJo) does a stainless steel needle 0.2 witch is a lot stronger, a needle and nozzle will set you back US$23 it will make a super Talon hehe!

I haven't tried it myself (don't own a talon) but I think it would work well.

Cheers Lou.
 
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i,ll get onto that, cause when i have the smallest needle set in, i bend the needle every time i pinch the paint off it. thanks for the heads up.
 
For touch up guns for larger areas and candies and clear coating i use the Aurita mini gun ,it is a sata mini4 knock off even the parts are interchangeable .Having also got the sata mini i can assure you that the aurita sprays just as good and costs just 20% of the cost of the sata .I have abused these with all sorts of finishes etc over the last 3 years and had no problems .
 
yep, the iwata touch up gun i have comming has a 1.0 set up. will be used for base coating canvas, and clear coating smaller projects such as skateboard decks. also want to give the marble effect a crack, but i can't get the whole area wet at once with the airbrush. even though my tallon has the mini spray atachment it still kinda leaves stripes on large areas. and i end up having to make alot of passes to cover nicely.
 
got some clear on with the touch up gun, same skateboard as in the gallery. two coats. will sand it with 1500 grit and give it another two. 007.JPG009.JPG
 
That looks killer, really cool look. My 9yr old son asked if I will paint his deck, now that he's seen this. He even stripped it down and started the prep, lol. He's changed his mind on the theme twice already. 0.o


One thing though, on the 1500 grit...I never go much finer than 800 wet/dry, or the next layer of clear doesn't have as much to bite to. 800's fine enough for the clear to fill, but rough enough to have some valleys for the paint to grip on to. I use the red 3M scuff-pads(I forget the grit) on edges and corners.

Your data sheets for the clear should have both, a time window to re-shoot and the recommended grit of sandpaper to use between coats, if it's been too long.

Paint either has to adhere mechanically, or chemically. If you are past the time window to re-clear and have it melt into the under-layer, then you should give a mechanical "tooth" to bite to. (you may already know this, but just to put it out there for anyone new to using a clearcoat...)

Check for each paint system you use, but, here's the info from the tech sheet for last clear I used, just as an example. We really had to stop and figure out our paint schedule after we sat down and read this, lol.

APPLICATION:
Apply EC100 in three (3) wet coats as necessary to achieve the desired build, allowing ten
(10) minutes flash time between coats (+/- depending on air flow and temperature).

RECOAT WINDOW:
EC100 should not be recoated more than one hour after the completion of the previous
coat. If more than one hour has elapsed, wait 6-8 hours (depending on air flow and
temperature) before recoating. After 24 hours, EC100 may be recoated, but only after the
surface has been abraded with 600-800 grit sandpaper to promote sufficient adhesion.

I've seen guys use 1500 or finer and not have problems, but it could cause issues if this is something that will get used.

Again, nice job. I really like the leading edge not just being a pile of flames. It looks believable.
 
yep i,m thinking of the last coat before i buff, thanks for the heads up. mine wont get used again. it is mine, misses says i,m to old. they used to have a skin for boards to protect the pictures. they used to have "rails" to. our boards did,nt get scratched at all. bloody kids. maybe i am to old.
 
yep i,m thinking of the last coat before i buff, thanks for the heads up. mine wont get used again. it is mine, misses says i,m to old. they used to have a skin for boards to protect the pictures. they used to have "rails" to. our boards did,nt get scratched at all. bloody kids. maybe i am to old.

My misses has the same attitude towards me recapturing my youth. And yeah, once you start calling the young ones "bloody kids"(I have my own version that I use), then we really are getting old, lol. Oh, how I resent their ability to heal...:black_eyed:
 
gave it a hit with 800. looks and feels like plastic now. but you can see that it's flat. thanks again for the heads up. last time i got on it i went tits up and broke me shoulder, took two years to get over it fully. showing off to me nephew.
 
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