paint bubbling out from trigger of paashe talon

Right here. View attachment 30577

If you notice also, the o ring on the tail piece is actually a replacement o ring for the cap. Why else would you need an o ring where a seal isn't needed.
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I know what you are trying to say, but it is used for an air seal. Any adjustment on that is if only you dont flatten it completely, you can turn it just a hair and it will help line up the cap better with the tip. These parts are not machined together, so the fit is not always perfect. That is why these guns sometimes do not spray well. If you do not compress this o-ring enough to make a seal, it will cause bubbling in the cup and if you were to spay soap, you will see an air leak from around the o-ring. They do flatten in time, so that is why the extra one on the tail.
It is not really something you adjust. You do it once to line up the cap and tip so they are center with each other.
When I first got this, I went through crap getting it to spray well until I put it under a loop and noticed this. Now, it sprays great
 
It's not just for the seal TWood, it might not be easy to see, but the more you tighten the aircap, the more the tip protrudes through it. If you tighten it too much the space around the tip does not let enough air out so not enough venturi effect. If it is too loose the tip does not protrude so the air is pushed in front of the tip creating a zone of high air pressure, and as soon as you pull the trigger the air is pushed in the brush and bubbles in the cup.

Hope this helps :)
 
Is it possible for you to film what it does with a phone and post the video, it would help us a lot.

I've had paint seep into the air valve section when using the smaller needle, but it did not bubble.

Is the bubbling coming from around the needle where it goes in the cup, or is the bubbling coming from the top of the air valve?
 
Is it possible for you to film what it does with a phone and post the video, it would help us a lot.

I've had paint seep into the air valve section when using the smaller needle, but it did not bubble.

Is the bubbling coming from around the needle where it goes in the cup, or is the bubbling coming from the top of the air valve?

It's bubbling out from where the trigger slot is.. It's obviously getting past the packing.

I even get paint as far back as where you tighten the needle from...
 
Got what your saying now. The result is the same but I just thought screwy on the cause. It all comes down to putting it on correctly and not having it too loose nor cranked tight. I have always finger tightened everything. I have found that g-spot.

Sorry for hy-jacking bubba g. I am wondering if you have the packing seal cross threaded . The paint could come back through the thread areas and in between the needle and seal. Are there uneven wear(rub) marks on your needle? Just a thought.
Cheers
 
If it's not cross threaded, your nozzle probably has a spec of paint somewhere that is interrupting the seal. My airbrush does that occasionally and I just flush out the nozzle again.

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OK, we know the paint is getting past the packing, but the bubbling is it coming from where the packing is or is it at the bottom of the trigger where the air valve is?
 
I bet there is a piece if the old packing in the threads. Also make sure your needle seats all the way with no force.

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I bet there is a piece if the old packing in the threads. Also make sure your needle seats all the way with no force.

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Okay.. the air cap was on very tight... unfortunately I'm not going to get a chance to test it out for a couple of hours...
 
Also what air pressure are you using? The way the talon body is designed, it steps down the pressure at the fluid tip so it uses less air pressure. If your pressure is too high, it will seep in through the plunger under the trigger because it doesn't have an o ring.

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Also what air pressure are you using? The way the talon body is designed, it steps down the pressure at the fluid tip so it uses less air pressure. If your pressure is too high, it will seep in through the plunger under the trigger because it doesn't have an o ring.

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30 - 35 psi

I'm back home now gonna go experiment with it...

What would you say is an acceptable pressure for the talon?
 
Well I use the mojo but same body design. I work for small details at around 19-21 psi which gets stepped down to around 15 psi. For general spraying, 27-29 psi max. Getting upwards to 30 psi it seems to struggle as it doesn't spray large pattern as well. It's completely different then what people are used to in the Japanese models.

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Two full color cups full of water, and nothing bubbling up from trigger slot... I think the air cap being to tight was the problem... I'm gonna have to put some paint through it to be sure but it looks promising...
 
Worked fine for about 20 minutes. Problem happening again...

I'll try loosening the air cap a little more tomorrow. Loosening made a big difference so maybe it just need to be a little looser.
 
What kind of paint are you using? If it's waterbased, it has to be shaken constantly. If it's urethane, really has to be reduced. More than normal.

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I think you have another issue and not your air cap. You should not be getting paint coming back to your trigger area. It has to be your packing assembly. The air cap is not that finicky. I played with mine yesterday, and backed off the air cap until there was no seal and I could still spray decently enough with out the problem you are having.
Playing with the aircap is not going to fix it....I would be still looking at your packing assembly as the culprit. Maybe remove everything and give the packing area a good clean and flush, a good blow with air, and reassemble making sure it goes in right.
I think we have it narrowed down to the packing assembly causing your problem.
Do you put lube on your needle before putting it back in?
We will get this solved.......
Cheers
 
With it not being urethane, there has to be a dries speck of paint somewhere that's causing the seal to be broken.

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Even though the problem is not solved yet. I want to thank you guys for taking the time to help me.

I feel like I cleaned it very well. With the packing removed I used lacquer thinner and brushes designed to clean air brushes to clean inside the airbrush body. I then took a q-tip saturated in lacquer thinner and pressed then twirled it into the area where the packing would pres up against until I saw no paint on the needle. I carefully screwed in the packing to slightly more then snug. Then in quarter turn increments at a time on each attempt.

I put a very thin coat of super lube on the needle
 
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