Projector questions.

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buttflyzzz

Guest
Hello wise ones, I am getting tired of the stencils and was looking into buying a projector. I am not sure which one I need. I am not really looking into brands per say but more digital vs old school lamp ones.

With the second option (old school) do you print out any picture or do you have to turn it to black and white? Do you leave the projector on during the painting process or do you just do the outline then free hand the rest? I
am pretty sure I have many more questions about this but I cannot think of any right this minute. If you think of anything I should know please feel free to chime in. Thanks guys.
 
Hi Buttflyzzz, I use this Philips - PicoPix Notebook pocket projector 20 lumens - PPX1020/EU - PicoPix - Pocket projectors - PC products and phones

This allows me to project images straight from my computer with usb, it actually projects whatever is on my screen at any given time, it projects a clear image up to about 80" and it can be used to make your computer screen bigger.

There are no rules as to how you use this or any other type of projector, You can decide for yourself if you airbrush over the image or simply use it draw an outline to follow, I personally draw an outline then print out the image on A4 paper, whatever your comfortable with.

This particular model is not much bigger than a cigarette pack and very easy to use and store.
 
I have a small 3m projector that you can take pics and videos or add pics on it with an SD card. It works great for airbrushing and it only cost me $100.
 
ciao robert, I can to say that the resolution and the highlight that has an old slideproiector you don't will have with a digital projector. Maybe spending many many money. Ok, tghere is the problem, in the old slideprjector, is impossible to remain 8 hours with light on, because the slide is in a zone very hot, and when you are painting he continue to move . So, it's necessary to find a slide projector who has the slide out the hot zon. This type of slyde proiector is a manual slide proiector and the slide is out, in front of projector, but now it's not in commerce from 20 years. But, if you have patience, and a good airbrusher it have eh eh eh, you can to find it in german ebay. This slideprolector, only one is good, is UNIVERSAL LEITZ DIAPROJEKTOR. If you write so, you will see directly on german ebay. His cost, 20 years ago, was about 2000 euro, but now you can to find about 250 euro. Remember only one is good . To do the slide, there is a company in germany: You take the file and send to them by web, they will send you the slide about5 days, perfect slides(this is very hard to find). And if you do 36 slides, the price is about 1.5 euro each one. 36 slides 55 euro at your home. Excuse my english, this is what i do. Ciaooo guys
 
ciao robert, eh eh eh, i don't saw that you are in usa, so is more hard my friend.
 
Lightbox projecting

I got fed up with projecting, so I converted my old drawing board. Built a wooden frame along the edges and placed an LED box inside it. Then attached two profiles on top and bottom of wooden frame in which I slide a glass plate from the side.

The reference photographs I re-size on my computer to the desired measurements and most of the time I filter the images (using the 'edge detect' filter in Corel PhotoPaint for example or any appropriate filter - this depends on the reference photo) which I then print on several A4 papers in black and white (I have an old laser printer (HP1010) - the filtering saves me a lot of laser powder since only the outlines are printed.

Next I tape the A4 printouts together with transparent tape en I tape that onto the glass plate. Over that I tape my airbrush paper. After I switch on the LED's the image of the prints is visible through the airbrush paper. You can not go wrong there and since the LED's remain cool I don't have to worry about the prints expanding and deforming and every object is in the correct spot. Attached to this comment you find a pic of the self-made lightbox.

When spraying on canvas I spray transparent, re-positionable glue on the back of the canvas (still in its frame) and tape the edges of the printout assembly to the canvas. Then I put the framed canvas before the glass plate and I switch on the LED's which gives me an excellent large version of the reference image.

I have a laptop beside my lightbox on which I open the original reference photo. The digital image allows me to zoom in to better observe details. Additional advantage is that I do not have to erase pencil lines after I have traced the parts of the image with the airbrush. Also by using certain filters in Corel PhotoPaint the shape of shadows is visible, which saves me a lot of guessing and tinkering. This made my airbrush life a lot easier.
 

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ciao robert, eh eh eh, i don't saw that you are in usa, so is more hard my friend.
Alberto, Thank you for your response. Your English is not bad at all, we all can understand you just fine. I think I am going to go with a digital one, I have seen them online for $100us or close to that.
 
I got fed up with projecting, so I converted my old drawing board. Built a wooden frame along the edges and placed an LED box inside it. Then attached two profiles on top and bottom of wooden frame in which I slide a glass plate from the side.

The reference photographs I re-size on my computer to the desired measurements and most of the time I filter the images (using the 'edge detect' filter in Corel PhotoPaint for example or any appropriate filter - this depends on the reference photo) which I then print on several A4 papers in black and white (I have an old laser printer (HP1010) - the filtering saves me a lot of laser powder since only the outlines are printed.

Next I tape the A4 printouts together with transparent tape en I tape that onto the glass plate. Over that I tape my airbrush paper. After I switch on the LED's the image of the prints is visible through the airbrush paper. You can not go wrong there and since the LED's remain cool I don't have to worry about the prints expanding and deforming and every object is in the correct spot. Attached to this comment you find a pic of the self-made lightbox.

When spraying on canvas I spray transparent, re-positionable glue on the back of the canvas (still in its frame) and tape the edges of the printout assembly to the canvas. Then I put the framed canvas before the glass plate and I switch on the LED's which gives me an excellent large version of the reference image.

I have a laptop beside my lightbox on which I open the original reference photo. The digital image allows me to zoom in to better observe details. Additional advantage is that I do not have to erase pencil lines after I have traced the parts of the image with the airbrush. Also by using certain filters in Corel PhotoPaint the shape of shadows is visible, which saves me a lot of guessing and tinkering. This made my airbrush life a lot easier.

Ingenious!
 
Get into the modern world and go with Madbrushes idea, it saves so much time getting transparencies printed or drawn up, if its straight projection you desire, the hand held LCD projectors are hard to beat and can be found quite cheap these days on ebay...Personally I have an old school projector, it had def served me well and just keeps on ticking but if I could afford to I'd definatly go LCD.. For example, say you want to project on a bonnet without removing it from a car, its bloody hard to hang a old school projector from the roof LOL, the mini projectors are perfect for such..GL
 
For example, say you want to project on a bonnet without removing it from a car, its bloody hard to hang a old school projector from the roof LOL, the mini projectors are perfect for such..GL/QUOTE]

Don't you get a distortion of the image whilst projecting them on a slightly curved surface? Never did a car but i was asking myself this question while i was looking at picture that was projected on a screen, and that little angle changes from the screen made huge differences in the projected picture.
 
For example, say you want to project on a bonnet without removing it from a car, its bloody hard to hang a old school projector from the roof LOL, the mini projectors are perfect for such..GL/QUOTE]

Don't you get a distortion of the image whilst projecting them on a slightly curved surface? Never did a car but i was asking myself this question while i was looking at picture that was projected on a screen, and that little angle changes from the screen made huge differences in the projected picture.

There would be some distortion but it would be minimal, plus you would also have distortion looking at the finished product, I could only imagine the distortion would help pull it into perspective.

When I used to do lettering on curved and convex/concave surfaces, I sometimes had to change the shape of the letters so that they looked normal when being read, this was always necessary on loading bay and garage doors due to the ribbed form of the cladding used to make them, these days the cladding has a less extreme relief.
 
I got fed up with projecting, so I converted my old drawing board. Built a wooden frame along the edges and placed an LED box inside it. Then attached two profiles on top and bottom of wooden frame in which I slide a glass plate from the side.

The reference photographs I re-size on my computer to the desired measurements and most of the time I filter the images (using the 'edge detect' filter in Corel PhotoPaint for example or any appropriate filter - this depends on the reference photo) which I then print on several A4 papers in black and white (I have an old laser printer (HP1010) - the filtering saves me a lot of laser powder since only the outlines are printed.

Next I tape the A4 printouts together with transparent tape en I tape that onto the glass plate. Over that I tape my airbrush paper. After I switch on the LED's the image of the prints is visible through the airbrush paper. You can not go wrong there and since the LED's remain cool I don't have to worry about the prints expanding and deforming and every object is in the correct spot. Attached to this comment you find a pic of the self-made lightbox.

When spraying on canvas I spray transparent, re-positionable glue on the back of the canvas (still in its frame) and tape the edges of the printout assembly to the canvas. Then I put the framed canvas before the glass plate and I switch on the LED's which gives me an excellent large version of the reference image.

I have a laptop beside my lightbox on which I open the original reference photo. The digital image allows me to zoom in to better observe details. Additional advantage is that I do not have to erase pencil lines after I have traced the parts of the image with the airbrush. Also by using certain filters in Corel PhotoPaint the shape of shadows is visible, which saves me a lot of guessing and tinkering. This made my airbrush life a lot easier.


This was also discussed in the 'Show us your airbrush space' thread. Here are some photographs to show how it works:

In the first image the A4 prints taped together to the entire image on the glass plate in front of the LED armature.
Lightbox 1.JPG

In the second image the airbrush paper is taped over the assembled prints.
Lightbox 2.JPG

In the third image the LED's are switched on and the prints behind the airbrush paper become visible.
Lightbox 3.JPG

You can not go wrong in this method of projection. Parts (eyes, nose, mouth etc.) always exactly in the correct place and no pencil lines to erase later.
 
A very clever solution Ignis, and so damn simple, and all made from stuff you could get for nothing, ideal for a Scotsman, when you say free to a Scotsman you instantly lose an arm, lol
 
A very clever solution Ignis, and so damn simple, and all made from stuff you could get for nothing, ideal for a Scotsman, when you say free to a Scotsman you instantly lose an arm, lol

I'm from The Netherlands, that's perhaps even worse than the Scotch... :D
 
I'm from The Netherlands, that's perhaps even worse than the Scotch... :D

I live in the Netherlands and I'm Scotch, I've been told by reliable sources that's even worse, I've also been told that a Dutchman is a Scotsman with slightly less muscle and a hell of a lot more brain. :loyal:
 
I live in the Netherlands and I'm Scotch, I've been told by reliable sources that's even worse, I've also been told that a Dutchman is a Scotsman with slightly less muscle and a hell of a lot more brain. :loyal:

Not sure about more brain... who told you that? :livid:
 
Not sure about more brain... who told you that? :livid:

I can't remember but he spoke in a strange language and said he was reliable, so I believed him, do you think he might have been lying? lol
 
They seem to have goods and bads for either the digital or analogue projectors.

The analogue ones give a better resolution for the price if your doing big art work, you can even get a bigger area at closer to the artwork.

Yet the digital you can just plug in and project.... The cheaper ones have a pretty crap resolution when your right up close.

The mural I did had to be broken up into about 16 different squares to then project as I couldn't get far enough away to fill the wall.... That was a digital.

The mini ones sound awesome also for the smaller close up jobs, I looked into them when looking for one and the resolution was down a bit.

Best thing would be to get one of each :) or get a couple of friends together and get one of each and share :)
 
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