question about inline mac valves

K

kitalor

Guest
Hello,
My inline valve thing arrived finally on the slow boat from china. For $4 it isn't too bad but for a thing that is supposed to perform a specific function it's not that great. Main issue is air leaks from the coupling whenever it gets touched. Not actually enough to impede function but enough to be really annoying.
My compressor (the noisy direct drive style) is located remotely from where I am airbrushing. The regulator is also a bit fiddly when going below 30psi
$_12.JPG
What do people suggest for this type of thing? Also do branded versions of this type of thing offer anything different in terms of control? the pressure dial on this thing is fiddly meaning all the control is in the last half twist before it is fully shut
 
Did you use thread tape? Normal recommendation would by cheap knock offs are not normally worth their while for pressure couplers.
 
Hi Mark,
Yeah but the leak is at the point of the quick connect coupling. I can probably tape it and lose the quick connect function.
I guess I'm also asking whether the branded ones are doing anything more than a knob controlling a gate to control pressure?
 
OK so cheap knock off... not smart. they are a quick disconnect and a knob controlling the pressure. You are paying for better engineering.
 
I could have told you to stay away from those. IF they work when you receive them, it won't be for long. Sparmax makes a similar looking one but has a black dial. They work great.
 
im Another happy GREX user. I had the Iwata ones (not quick connect, just Mac valve) and had similar results to yours with either all or nothing in a 1/4 turn.
Love the GREX one
Thanks for the info. So i'm looking at $30-40 aud? for a grex g-mac http://www.ozairbrush.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62_76&product_id=177
Not as bad as some of the other prices i have seen
I'll wait and see if there is anything else I might want from that store to save on postage
 
He is a member here but I don't think he's been on for a little while.
He's also an oz supplier for Etac paint. Magic guy to deal with. Give him a call via the website if you need quick answer.
 
The one I have is a Badger one. It doesn't leak, but it has the same behavior in terms of only the last 1/2 turn or so being where all the regulation happens.

BUUUUT... I'm gonna be the odd one out, and recommend getting a better regulator instead of a better MAC valve. My own experience/preference has been that it's best to keep the hose light and the stem short, as those things have a huge impact of ergonomics and deftness. IMO MAC valves are a compromise for when you're working under conditions that require you to work out of reach of your regulator (like auto body stuff, for example). For illustration, model work, or anything else that keeps you more or less in one spot, ditch both the MAC and the quick coupler, and use a locally mounted regulator instead.

Here's the regulator I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GK9Y1...TF8&colid=2NPIJMLAL03R8&coliid=I1X7R7H86NPF6D
It's designed for lower pressures, and works great.

TBH, I feel like even if you're working away from your regulator, you still shouldn't need a MAC valve unless you're playing it loose with your mixes. If you've got your paints pre-mixed/reduced to a consistent viscosity, then all you need is to do a few lines at the start of a session to fine tune your regulator, and you're good to go.

IMO Mac valves and quick couplers are really just for adding bulk to the stem for those who prefer a pistol grip over a pen grip. Why one would prefer a pistol grip for anything other than broad coverage, IDK, but there are those that do.
 
The one I have is a Badger one. It doesn't leak, but it has the same behavior in terms of only the last 1/2 turn or so being where all the regulation happens.

BUUUUT... I'm gonna be the odd one out, and recommend getting a better regulator instead of a better MAC valve. My own experience/preference has been that it's best to keep the hose light and the stem short, as those things have a huge impact of ergonomics and deftness. IMO MAC valves are a compromise for when you're working under conditions that require you to work out of reach of your regulator (like auto body stuff, for example). For illustration, model work, or anything else that keeps you more or less in one spot, ditch both the MAC and the quick coupler, and use a locally mounted regulator instead.

Here's the regulator I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GK9Y1...TF8&colid=2NPIJMLAL03R8&coliid=I1X7R7H86NPF6D
It's designed for lower pressures, and works great.

TBH, I feel like even if you're working away from your regulator, you still shouldn't need a MAC valve unless you're playing it loose with your mixes. If you've got your paints pre-mixed/reduced to a consistent viscosity, then all you need is to do a few lines at the start of a session to fine tune your regulator, and you're good to go.

IMO Mac valves and quick couplers are really just for adding bulk to the stem for those who prefer a pistol grip over a pen grip. Why one would prefer a pistol grip for anything other than broad coverage, IDK, but there are those that do.
Thanks for the detailed response Nessus. much appreciated
I recently built a box for my compressor to try and knock off a couple of dB from the hellish thing. In doing this I got a large regulator with moisture trap to work externally to the existing compressor one (which is super fiddly).
Just this morning I removed the external regulator which was at the start of a 10 metre airhose connected to my 3 metre airbrush hose and placed it closer to my workspace at the point of the airbrush hose. This also cut down on some noise as it had platic bits that were rattling when the compressor fills
This regulator although not a micro allows for some fine control over the flow. As per pre mixing paint is this possible with createx illustration and high performance reducer? I was reding somewhere about a pot-life of 30 minutes?
I'll keep my eye out for a micro regulator though. The cost of these things and having to import them generally puts me off unless I'm really sure I need one. Cheers
comp3.jpg comp1.jpg comp2.jpg
 
Going by your outlet plugs, you're in Australia or New Zealand, right? I checked TCP Global's shipping prices for that region and YIKES! I don't care what the logistical justifications for those costs are, that's just far beyond insane. Man, I feel for you.

Dunno about Createx, as I have no experience with that brand personally. I've not had shelf-life* issues with premixing other paint brands, but I usually try to adhere pretty strictly to the manufacturer's recommended reducers instead of mixing and matching. It would seem odd to me if the manufacturer's recommended reducer would actually stand to damage the binder, but I'm not a chemistry expert.

*"Pot life" I think is a term more associated with the catalytic-cure cycle of paints (and resins) like epoxy or urethane.
 
Going by your outlet plugs, you're in Australia or New Zealand, right? I checked TCP Global's shipping prices for that region and YIKES! I don't care what the logistical justifications for those costs are, that's just far beyond insane. Man, I feel for you.

Dunno about Createx, as I have no experience with that brand personally. I've not had shelf-life* issues with premixing other paint brands, but I usually try to adhere pretty strictly to the manufacturer's recommended reducers instead of mixing and matching. It would seem odd to me if the manufacturer's recommended reducer would actually stand to damage the binder, but I'm not a chemistry expert.

*"Pot life" I think is a term more associated with the catalytic-cure cycle of paints (and resins) like epoxy or urethane.
Yeah I'm in Oz and certain specialist items can be a pain although I'm sure for other regions it is even worse.
This is the type of inline regulator I can easily get though for closer to $20aud
2spray dr5 inline spray gun regulator.jpg
Goes to 100psi
I think you're right about the paint. The createx line is a little confusing being as there are about 5 different paint types and some of them intermingle
 
I think you should be fine at a pinch with the one on the compressor. Just remember to set the pressure you want with air flow through the brush.
 
I also have those MAC, and not only one:depressed: All as one provide with annoying air leaks. So I've removed the MACs themselves from the bodies of quick disconnects and carefully sealed the holes with an 2K epoxy resin. So they're only disconnect things now. Never gonna buy them again!:thumbsdown:

Jackie, thanx for the info about GREX!:thumbsup: Maybe try them somehow. Though I've got pressure gauge near the working place but internal MAC may be more interesting somehow.
 
I've got a great and have been using it for about 8 months with no leaks what so ever and can run all my brushes using it between my badger khrome Iwata hpcs and a knock off:D:D:D
 
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