Questions that been bothering me

F

Fatslenderman

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There are many people who have years of experience and I think you might able to help me with these questions, I would be very grateful.

1) If the base color has "orange peel" look, can I smooth it out with very fine sandpaper, will it still look good with clear coat? How do you prevent orange peel effect on base paint?
2) For some reason when I airbrushed with orange and red colors, the paint felt like sandpaper, it is almost impossible to wipe it with anything because it collects lint it is just not smooth. I wonder why? Can it be that thinner is drying to fast and the psi was to strong? Is it a way to wipe such sandpaper-like surface without leaving lint and dust?
3) How do you trace guide lines without projector? I did that on some tracing paper but it left nasty black lines that were showing through the paint...
4) How do you ussually fix accidental paint splatter?
5) Why I have so many questions, whats wrong with me?
 
There are many people who have years of experience and I think you might able to help me with these questions, I would be very grateful.

1) If the base color has "orange peel" look, can I smooth it out with very fine sandpaper, will it still look good with clear coat? How do you prevent orange peel effect on base paint?
2) For some reason when I airbrushed with orange and red colors, the paint felt like sandpaper, it is almost impossible to wipe it with anything because it collects lint it is just not smooth. I wonder why? Can it be that thinner is drying to fast and the psi was to strong? Is it a way to wipe such sandpaper-like surface without leaving lint and dust?
3) How do you trace guide lines without projector? I did that on some tracing paper but it left nasty black lines that were showing through the paint...
4) How do you ussually fix accidental paint splatter?
5) Why I have so many questions, whats wrong with me?

1. Yes you can sand it out, will be OK under a clear, if the primer underneath is peely then it will be a problem as you will likely sand through the top coat. It's prevented by the applicator, so it's a skill issue. It's a combination of the correct reduction, flow and speed of application.
2. Sounds like a dry coat, what are you using?
3. - I'll let someone else get that one.
4. Avoid it in the first place. Depends where it is, you may be able to wipe it off or maybe it just gets blended into the design. Avoidance is best, take more care.
5. Because you are learning! :) Keep it up.
 
Ok
1. Like mark said it will be ok under clear but dont be tempted to sand the base colour incase you rub through. Once you have cleared you can sand and buff the clear if you have the same issue.

2. Could be going on too thick and too dry, experiment with reductions and air pressures.

3. When i do my guidelines i use graphite pencil on the back of a reference and transfer by drawing on the reference . dark lines can be lightened with an eraser, a putty eraser is good for this.

4. Avoidance is the first way the second way can be seen on this video clip. https://www.dropbox.com/s/wynxy0gf5ylupax/Javier Soto Killer Clown splatter fix.mp4?dl=0

5. Nothings wrong, its because your learning and without asking questions and trying things out you never know.

PS, download the vid clip if possible to save on my bandwidth for dropbox taa

Lee
 
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There are many people who have years of experience and I think you might able to help me with these questions, I would be very grateful.

1) If the base color has "orange peel" look, can I smooth it out with very fine sandpaper, will it still look good with clear coat? How do you prevent orange peel effect on base paint?
2) For some reason when I airbrushed with orange and red colors, the paint felt like sandpaper, it is almost impossible to wipe it with anything because it collects lint it is just not smooth. I wonder why? Can it be that thinner is drying to fast and the psi was to strong? Is it a way to wipe such sandpaper-like surface without leaving lint and dust?
3) How do you trace guide lines without projector? I did that on some tracing paper but it left nasty black lines that were showing through the paint...
4) How do you ussually fix accidental paint splatter?
5) Why I have so many questions, whats wrong with me?

As you've been answered well for almost all questions, I could only add following:
5) I use watercolour pencils for this. Colour I choose any time fits the colour of the area I apply the lines to. You don't need to press hard as light pressure leaves enough on the surface to be visible when painting.
For B&W painting on white surface you can use just grey pencil. I never used black as there's no need for that, more over when going with very reduced paint (what many do) black lines you wouldn't get rid of and they would be visible on the finished piece.
Anyway, using colour or black pencil you can always use an eraser afterwards (after your lines applying) for the reason to knock down the thickness of the lines. In reality you need just a touch lines on the surface for further working with them. When drawing the lines using projector you can't see good what you're actually drawing on the surface for the reason of powerful light flow, so the lines sometimes can be thick, so - an eraser would help. Different colour pencils behave different as paints do for they made of different pigments (more or less transparent), so sometimes the pressure you apply when drawing should be different. Practice will show.
Watercolour pencils don't behave like random pencils and there will be no issues with paint sticking (adhesive properties). So that's a very good feature and I'd say is very important. I'm not afraid to cover these lines with urethanes.
 
1) I have sanded the base coat and in some spots it gone through the paint, I airbrushed those spots with same base color and sand it again, I know its sloppy as hell, next time will try doing everything the right way..

2) I am using 1k base paint with 25+ psi, because I wanted to cover bigger area fast. I am using chinese airbrush, It is not ideal, saving some money for original airbrush.

3) I have seen watercolor pencils for sale, I might give it a try. Does graphite show through the colors? Vladimir, how about base paint 1k, does it go well with watercolor pencils too?

4) Jord001 that is very helpful video. I usually first spray on something before going on the real deal, but few times it went off completely accidentally.

Thank you all VERY much for your great insight towards my problems, I might be able to fix these in the future.
 
I can only answer #5: You have this serious disease called "Interest in Airbrushing". Many people on this forum are also inflicted with this disease. I can't look at a darn photograph without wondering "How would I paint that?" It's not life threatening, but sometimes it can seem like it is. The only cure is to enjoy it and ask lots of questions! :)
 
3) I have seen watercolor pencils for sale, I might give it a try.

Try them, I doubt you'll be back to anything else:)
I use KOH-I-NOOR, but other brands are also available here. Widest pallet I've seen was from Faber-Castell, but you needn't that much:)

Does graphite show through the colors?

Graphite may show or not depending on paints you use. If opaques - it's not that possible actually unless you paint them thin layers. If transparent (over reduced) - more likely you will not get rid of them at "light" areas of your painting.
Honestly, I've started using watercolour pencils for ABing just from my first works.

Vladimir, how about base paint 1k, does it go well with watercolor pencils too?

I use only urethanes (1K base coats for painting car bodies), so it's the answer;) No issues there. I know other people doing the same.
 
As you've been answered well for almost all questions, I could only add following:
5) I use watercolour pencils for this. Colour I choose any time fits the colour of the area I apply the lines to. You don't need to press hard as light pressure leaves enough on the surface to be visible when painting.
For B&W painting on white surface you can use just grey pencil. I never used black as there's no need for that, more over when going with very reduced paint (what many do) black lines you wouldn't get rid of and they would be visible on the finished piece.
Anyway, using colour or black pencil you can always use an eraser afterwards (after your lines applying) for the reason to knock down the thickness of the lines. In reality you need just a touch lines on the surface for further working with them. When drawing the lines using projector you can't see good what you're actually drawing on the surface for the reason of powerful light flow, so the lines sometimes can be thick, so - an eraser would help. Different colour pencils behave different as paints do for they made of different pigments (more or less transparent), so sometimes the pressure you apply when drawing should be different. Practice will show.
Watercolour pencils don't behave like random pencils and there will be no issues with paint sticking (adhesive properties). So that's a very good feature and I'd say is very important. I'm not afraid to cover these lines with urethanes.
Great info as always Vlad!


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If you havent got questions, then theres sumfin wrong with ya LOL..All been answered, but my take, orange peel is in the application, a good wetcoat at the end can reduce it but also easily wet and dried out which should always be done but even car manufacturers don't. 90% of new cars have orange peel. Get a projector, 20 dollar investment in an old A4 projector and life isnt an issue, no pre drawing and saves hrs if you learn how to "sketch" the piece on by projecting and sketching with paint as initial step and guides for the latter piece and layout, remember just to bury em in your work so use a light white or high reduced white for that step (PITA on a white car LOL). As to the dusty feel....Its probably dust LOL..You'll be amazed how much dust your paint picks up and how quick and the piece will attract to it through static charge, you must regularly use a proper dust tack cloth, any other will leave behind lint and the like....and you need a good surface wash, wax and degreaser. never mix that container up with your thinners, done that LOL but before every paint session, degrease again. This removes all the roughness and larger particles you dnt want under clears or later coats take care of that as it happens..Hope wasn't just repeating what everyone else said...Good luck
 
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