reducing color correctly for fine details

T

topangler81

Guest
Dear all,
Great day,
how to reduce paint correctly to get fine details with 0.3mm airbrush? how about air pressure setting. i always get dry tip. how to get it correctly..
 
Hi Top, what brand of paint are you using ? Every type of paint is different, so its not possible to give a advice with reduction and air pressure that would work for all paints.
Also every airbrush is abit different, one blows out more air on the front end others less with the same air pressure set. The problem with the tip dry is pretty common with waterbased paints
specialy when doing details. I have lots of problem with tip dry when i use my Wicked detail colors, specialy white. You will have to remove the needle cap often and carefully clean the dry paint
off the neddle with your fingers or a tissue. It also helps to point the airbrush to a other surface like a paper next to you and spray more paint, often the paint flow will be better again then.
 
It is impossible to cancel out tip dry altogether with any brand of paint, however you will minimise the amount of tip dry that get by mixing the recommended reducer for your particular brand.

I really am no expert, but when doing fine detail I now over-reduce and work at around 10 - 15psi, because I'm now used to the tip dry problem, I just keep an eye on the needle always working with the crown off, I have a tissue permanently in my supporting hand and just clean the needle every couple of seconds or so whether it's needed or not, this minimises the risk of an unwanted accident on my work.

As Stranger375 said I always have a piece of old paper next to my project which I use to check how my airbrush is behaving and to to blast it out now and again.

Note: over-reducing is a great way to force beginners like myself to build up detail rather then hit everything in one foul blast, and lower pressure also seriously when working up close reduces the amount of over-spray that you get therefore your won't get that horrible dirty look.

Another handy tip is to practice your fine lines and detail first on your old paper before hitting the real thing.

Hope this helps
 
Knowing the paint brand and type you are using helps to give a better answer.
But .3 or .35 tip using Wicked or AutoAir I always mix 1 drop paint to 3 Reducer (W100) and run my compressor down to between 5 and 15 PSI depending on the detail I am going for. I use only IWATA airbrushes.
HOK I can pretty much leave it at a 1 to 1 mixture and just adjust the air pressure to get the detail.
On my CM-C plus .18 set up I may reduce Wicked as far down as 1 to 6 or even 1 to 10 and build the detail in multiple passes.HOK 1 to 2 mixture work well . Again air Pressure between 5 and 15 PSI.
But it took ma playing with both the paint and the airbrush to learn this.
You will also find that at lower air pressures you should have less tip dry due to lower air pressure moving across the needle tip.
Bottom line is this is what I have found that works for me and you will have to find what works for you.But at least it is a starting point of paint reduction mixture and air pressures . I hardly ever use the MAC valve on the Micron due to I like knowing what air pressure I am spraying at.
 
Hi Top, what brand of paint are you using ? Every type of paint is different, so its not possible to give a advice with reduction and air pressure that would work for all paints.
Also every airbrush is abit different, one blows out more air on the front end others less with the same air pressure set. The problem with the tip dry is pretty common with waterbased paints
specialy when doing details. I have lots of problem with tip dry when i use my Wicked detail colors, specialy white. You will have to remove the needle cap often and carefully clean the dry paint
off the neddle with your fingers or a tissue. It also helps to point the airbrush to a other surface like a paper next to you and spray more paint, often the paint flow will be better again then.

im using 2k automotive paint (urethane base paint) and solvent base reducer. i also use 2k slow thinner for reducer. i tried to reduce the paint and air pressure but i couldnt get what i want.
 
Knowing the paint brand and type you are using helps to give a better answer.
But .3 or .35 tip using Wicked or AutoAir I always mix 1 drop paint to 3 Reducer (W100) and run my compressor down to between 5 and 15 PSI depending on the detail I am going for. I use only IWATA airbrushes.
HOK I can pretty much leave it at a 1 to 1 mixture and just adjust the air pressure to get the detail.
On my CM-C plus .18 set up I may reduce Wicked as far down as 1 to 6 or even 1 to 10 and build the detail in multiple passes.HOK 1 to 2 mixture work well . Again air Pressure between 5 and 15 PSI.
But it took ma playing with both the paint and the airbrush to learn this.
You will also find that at lower air pressures you should have less tip dry due to lower air pressure moving across the needle tip.
Bottom line is this is what I have found that works for me and you will have to find what works for you.But at least it is a starting point of paint reduction mixture and air pressures . I hardly ever use the MAC valve on the Micron due to I like knowing what air pressure I am spraying at.

i only have a knock off airbrush hd 180 0.2mm. hopefully i can afford an iwata soon...:uncomfortableness:
 
Knowing the paint brand and type you are using helps to give a better answer.
But .3 or .35 tip using Wicked or AutoAir I always mix 1 drop paint to 3 Reducer (W100) and run my compressor down to between 5 and 15 PSI depending on the detail I am going for. I use only IWATA airbrushes.
HOK I can pretty much leave it at a 1 to 1 mixture and just adjust the air pressure to get the detail.
On my CM-C plus .18 set up I may reduce Wicked as far down as 1 to 6 or even 1 to 10 and build the detail in multiple passes.HOK 1 to 2 mixture work well . Again air Pressure between 5 and 15 PSI.
But it took ma playing with both the paint and the airbrush to learn this.
You will also find that at lower air pressures you should have less tip dry due to lower air pressure moving across the needle tip.
Bottom line is this is what I have found that works for me and you will have to find what works for you.But at least it is a starting point of paint reduction mixture and air pressures . I hardly ever use the MAC valve on the Micron due to I like knowing what air pressure I am spraying at.

good tip for beginner like me... thank you
 
im ordering an iwata hpcs but i wondering that can i get fine details with it? i never use iwata before.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
im ordering an iwata hpcs but i wondering that can i get fine details with it? i never use iwata before.

Well that will depend on your level of practice and the level of detail you want.
Nothing wrong with a affordable knock off either. I will be the first to tell you to set a budget you can live with and buy with in that budget. Just because I have a micron does not mean I expect everyone to own one.
As far as detail do not be afraid to play with paint reduction and unless you live in an area that is 100+ degrees a medium to fast reducers it better, Faster dry time, less color bleed. Remember the more you reduce some paints the more you will have to build the color.
As far as detail with the HPCS you can get some really nice detail with it, but that will also depend on the size of piece you are working on. IE... doing a pinup at 12X14 you can paint the fish net stockings with it . But doing the same picture at 4X2 not so much.
Hope this makes sense.
 
Well that will depend on your level of practice and the level of detail you want.
Nothing wrong with a affordable knock off either. I will be the first to tell you to set a budget you can live with and buy with in that budget. Just because I have a micron does not mean I expect everyone to own one.
As far as detail do not be afraid to play with paint reduction and unless you live in an area that is 100+ degrees a medium to fast reducers it better, Faster dry time, less color bleed. Remember the more you reduce some paints the more you will have to build the color.
As far as detail with the HPCS you can get some really nice detail with it, but that will also depend on the size of piece you are working on. IE... doing a pinup at 12X14 you can paint the fish net stockings with it . But doing the same picture at 4X2 not so much.
Hope this makes sense.

Dear mr Micron,
how do you practice to get fine details?
 
Dear mr Micron,
how do you practice to get fine details?

Dots , Dagger strokes , Fades and blends. does not make a difference if it is small detail of a 40 foot panel you have to have the basics down pat before you can get the detail you want.
But what I do if you really want to know is start out painting a picture 8X10 than make the same picture 4X6 and than 2X3 same picture same detail. it is easy to make a large painting look like it has a lot of detail but hard to make a small one.
Look up an artist name Marissa Oosterlee http://marissaoosterlee.com/2011/09/23/airbrush-show-2/ on a few other forums I am on she has posted some really small and amazing work. She is also the one who told me to practice doing the same painting smaller and smaller . You gain more control over your airbrush and learn how to play with air pressure and reduction of paint doing it this way.
does not make a difference if it is a skull or a portrait on what you paint but make the largest one with as much detail as you can get. than make the smaller ones look just like it.
It is a hard thing to do when you are first starting.
Also exactly what kind of detail are you talking about ? To me detail is the smallest of items on a painting. IE , ring design on a finger , or small threads off a piece of cloth,

Here you will see a paint of a guy standing on a bridge to the right of his head is a grain of rice. Is this the type of detail you are looking to get..http://marissaoosterlee.files.wordp...ingwithricegrain2-e1315689744293.jpg?w=700&h=
 
Last edited:
Dots , Dagger strokes , Fades and blends. does not make a difference if it is small detail of a 40 foot panel you have to have the basics down pat before you can get the detail you want.
But what I do if you really want to know is start out painting a picture 8X10 than make the same picture 4X6 and than 2X3 same picture same detail. it is easy to make a large painting look like it has a lot of detail but hard to make a small one.
Look up an artist name Marissa Oosterlee http://marissaoosterlee.com/2011/09/23/airbrush-show-2/ on a few other forums I am on she has posted some really small and amazing work. She is also the one who told me to practice doing the same painting smaller and smaller . You gain more control over your airbrush and learn how to play with air pressure and reduction of paint doing it this way.
does not make a difference if it is a skull or a portrait on what you paint but make the largest one with as much detail as you can get. than make the smaller ones look just like it.
It is a hard thing to do when you are first starting.
Also exactly what kind of detail are you talking about ? To me detail is the smallest of items on a painting. IE , ring design on a finger , or small threads off a piece of cloth,

Here you will see a paint of a guy standing on a bridge to the right of his head is a grain of rice. Is this the type of detail you are looking to get..http://marissaoosterlee.files.wordp...ingwithricegrain2-e1315689744293.jpg?w=700&h=

i wanted to try to paint everything, small threads, flags, skull details. almost everything. i always want to paint animals such as tiger or eagle but cant do what i wanted to do. yes i may be lack of practice. it just about 5 months since i started airbrushing. i only practicing on weekends. i always wondering how someone can do such fine details and how and when i can archive that. yes its very difficult for me
 
im ordering an iwata hpcs but i wondering that can i get fine details with it? i never use iwata before.

I use an hpcs, and you can get great fine lines with it. I got it because it's an all rounder, and that suits me fine, and because it's gravity fed which I prefer. It's been nothing but a pleasure to use!
 
i wanted to try to paint everything, small threads, flags, skull details. almost everything. i always want to paint animals such as tiger or eagle but cant do what i wanted to do. yes i may be lack of practice. it just about 5 months since i started airbrushing. i only practicing on weekends. i always wondering how someone can do such fine details and how and when i can archive that. yes its very difficult for me

As far as animal painting look at this guys page.........http://jurekart.com/tutorials he combines hairy brush with airbrush and comes out with awesome works of art of wildlife
 
As far as animal painting look at this guys page.........http://jurekart.com/tutorials he combines hairy brush with airbrush and comes out with awesome works of art of wildlife

This is an excellent tip, my first success with a tiger is because of this same man, and it's not compulsory to do everything only with your airbrush.

But some times fine lines can be achieved by painting a thicker line and working towards each side using another colour, reducing your line to the thickness you require.
 
yesterday i started my tiger project. but something went wrong. when i airbrushing using white paint, its become yelowish look especially on white base or directly spray on paper. but if i spray on top of another color its only spray white. :confused-new:
 
yesterday i started my tiger project. but something went wrong. when i airbrushing using white paint, its become yelowish look especially on white base or directly spray on paper. but if i spray on top of another color its only spray white. :confused-new:

Why not post a photo of your project, this would help to see how you've started.

All white paints look yellowish on a white background, when I did my own tigers I started with the black stripes first, but I used dark brown/umber instead of black because when you spray white over black it turns a pale blue, after I've done the black stripes I then spray a fine mist over the entire tiger and at the same time I do all the shadows and dark areas on the nose for example, after this I apply the hair texture over the umber mist, look at the first photo in this thread.

http://www.airbrushforum.org/showthread.php?999-New-Tiger-project-WIP&highlight=

You will see the start of my project and although the mist and shadowing has been applied it's hard to see the mist but it is enough to stop your white turning yellow, also when you do your hair texture you need the mist to give your texture some contrast, otherwise you wouldn't see the hairs.

Hope this helps.
 
tiger.jpg

here is my project. you'll see the yellowish white under the tiger nose
left is my reference
 
View attachment 2485

here is my project. you'll see the yellowish white under the tiger nose
left is my reference

Hi Topangler

It looks really cool, and I see the yellow you mentioned, but looking at the picture here, the yellow tint looks more like your white is mixing with the colour you used for the top of the nose, this colour has a lot of yellow in it and yellows and reds are very strong colours and are almost like dies, anything they come in contact with becomes stained, similar to getting Indian curry on fabric, it's very hard to get rid of.

You could try to erase it before you go further with your white, When I do my tigers now, I always do everything black and white first, and always do all the colouring later, basically I start with a white tiger and then add the colour, I had the same problem when I attempted my first tiger, but I never let anybody see it.

It's a shame you've encountered this problem because your version shows as much much action as the reference, and you've matched the colours magnificently very good work.

It might be and idea to simply start again, since you seem to have an eye for detail, I don't think that would be problem for you, good luck.
 
Back
Top