Restoring a Thayer & Chandler Model A

[tatocorvette]

Hello,

I recently acquired this Thayer & Chandler Model A from eBay relatively cheap as it is missing the cup and the description was vague. So it was a bit of a gamble. I have been restoring vintage cameras and other equipment for years but this is my first "vintage" airbrush.
The Model A was made for decades. From what I understand, serial numbers are not very useful in dating them. I will appreciate if anyone can help get a ballpark idea on when this was made.
As with my other restorations, I photograph everything as received, some during the process and the final "after" pictures. Because of the many images I'll split this in 2 messages.

Before or as received
The case seems to be in good shape. Only dirty. Some initials written at the bottom.

The airbrush looks complete but a bit dull. As mentioned, no cup or any other accessory included.

Handle threads are a little worn out but still work. Overall, signs of high mileage. Some small corrosion spots but overall, look complete and straight.

Some parts like the tube shank put a fight to come out.

Nothing looks broken. Just dull. Many scratches.

During:
Can you tell the difference in the needle tube? I've always been a sucker for shiny brass.

Seems that what I thought was corrosion was just actually old dried paint

The brassing on the trigger suggests high mileage.

Did not mess with the air valve. Did not cooperate to come out so I left it alone. For now.

Each and every part received personal care while the others patiently waited. The case was no exception.

To be continued...

 

[tatocorvette]

Part 2:

The end result
Eventually everything went back together.

Coming up next, once I get a cup (in transit) I'll test it.
Hope you approve. I may be biased (and I am) but this is one gorgeous looking airbrush.
Anyone has any idea on what decade this was made?

Thanks,
Ismael

 

[Kingpin]

cant help with the age, but great job on the restoration

 

[2Diverse]

Presuming the brush goes with the case I'm fairly certain it's from the '50s/'60s.

 

[DaveG]

Nice! High mileage you say? This one was held so much that the brass is contoured to the shape of the fingers that held it -

 

[tatocorvette]

Hello Dave,
Thanks for stopping by. From what I understand you are the authority on this topic. I do have a lot to learn on the history.
That is beautiful wear! There is high mileage and there is HIGH mileage.

Thanks,
Ismael

 

[DaveG]

I love the Model A. The one I posted is most likely a 1920's example, with a handle added from the mid to late 30's by someone that really liked using the brush. There were some other odds and ends included with the brush that let me know it was a well cared for tool. All I did with this one was to clean it gently (it didn't need much) and used Renaissance wax on it to keep it from tarnishing further... it works very, very well.

Looks like you did a nice job cleaning yours up - I am sure it will work well for you.

 

[tatocorvette]

Mr. DaveG,

I've been reading many other threads on this forum and learning a lot from your posts. From what I can gather, my "really not so high mileage" Model A was:
Made before the mid 1960's when the body changed to a tapered front.
In the mid 20's they changed from fixed to removable nozzle head.
In the mid 30's the metal clip in the case was introduced.

So far, mine would be no later than the mid 60's, no earlier than the mid 30's if the case is in fact the original. 2Diverse suggests 50's to 60's based on the case.

My question is: Would the handle or any other part of mine suggests any other timeframe information? Or the case if we assume it is the original one that came with it? Just curious.

Thanks,
Ismael

 

[DaveG]

Mr. DaveG,

I've been reading many other threads on this forum and learning a lot from your posts. From what I can gather, my "really not so high mileage" Model A was:
Made before the mid 1960's when the body changed to a tapered front.
In the mid 20's they changed from fixed to removable nozzle head.
In the mid 30's the metal clip in the case was introduced.

So far, mine would be no later than the mid 60's, no earlier than the mid 30's if the case is in fact the original. 2Diverse suggests 50's to 60's based on the case.

My question is: Would the handle or any other part of mine suggests any other timeframe information? Or the case if we assume it is the original one that came with it? Just curious.

Thanks,
Ismael

If the case is original to the brush, and I see no reason to think it not, I would say mid 50-60's is a good guess on the age of the brush. The gold rim on the case makes it later than earlier. Metal cases in the 30's were black and smaller; the 40's a little different shape. There are other small differences, too - that are more than I want to try to cover before having much more coffee. The knurling on the spring tube, and collet nut. The size and shape of the head of the trigger set screw, the shape of the spray regulator at the front of the brush, etc... There were small production changes that seem to have shown up every 5 to 10 years that are quite subtle to read...

 

[tatocorvette]

Thank you Dave!
While I'm just getting my feet wet in airbrush history, I have been collecting and restoring vintage cameras for years. A difference I've noticed is that serial numbers/datecodes are usually well documented in cameras while it seems to be of less relevance in airbrushes. While I have tons of books on cameras (and even more on automotive), it seems that the history of the airbrush hasn't been that well documented. Most airbrush publications are about tutorials, technique and use. Of course, these are very different products/markets and are hard to compare.
The best resources I've found are this forum and the airbrush museum website.
If anyone knows of any good book on the history of our beloved tool, please let me know.

Thanks,
Ismael

 

[DaveG]

I know someone that has possession of all of Thayer Chandlers business records - but, they are in total disarray, just stuffed into boxes and in storage. They were grabbed from the trash when the company went under and then gifted to someone else. There is some interesting stuff there -like the (original) award honored at the Columbian Exposition (World's Fair) at the end of the 1800's, etc. The complete airbrush history is dreadfully under documented, without any thought of preserving a history, or timeline - industry wide.

 

[SalkehatchieSmiles]

@DaveG & @tatocorvette - Sorry I am joining this conversation late, but do you guys have a good source of parts for the Model A? I had one deliver yesterday that's in fantastic cosmetic shape but will unfortunately require some troubleshooting. I understand that Badger still offers support, but I haven't gone down that road yet, so I don't know how extensive their "support" is.

I would also love some feedback on my troubleshooting efforts. For one, it's doing this weird thing where it barely shoots any air unless I unscrew the crown cap just a bit. I think it has something to do with the head design and a possible blockage in the nozzle, but I confess that this brush's assembly is different from others I own, so I am facing a new learning curve. Anyway, I can snap some photos tonight. Let me know if this topic would be better followed in a new thread.

Thanks!

 

[tatocorvette]

In the office but I'll try to type fast
Model A requires the front regulator to be unscrewed 3 and a half turns from tight for proper function. That is a very fine adjustment. You start with 3 1/2 turns and go from there. Among other things, it will allow you to fine tune minor differences in paint thickness. You are essentially adjusting how much the nozzle protrudes from the regulator.
Will get more details later tonight.
My boss expects me to work for my paycheck. Go figure

 

[Kingpin]

I have just put a manual in the resource section that might help

https://airbrushforum.org/resources/thayer-chandler-air-brush.49/

 

[SalkehatchieSmiles]

Looks like I have some studying to do. Thanks, guys!

 

[Kingpin]

The Airbrushmuseum also has some great info on old brushes

https://www.airbrushmuseum.com/index.html

 

[DaveG]

@DaveG & @tatocorvette - Sorry I am joining this conversation late, but do you guys have a good source of parts for the Model A? I had one deliver yesterday that's in fantastic cosmetic shape but will unfortunately require some troubleshooting. I understand that Badger still offers support, but I haven't gone down that road yet, so I don't know how extensive their "support" is.

I would also love some feedback on my troubleshooting efforts. For one, it's doing this weird thing where it barely shoots any air unless I unscrew the crown cap just a bit. I think it has something to do with the head design and a possible blockage in the nozzle, but I confess that this brush's assembly is different from others I own, so I am facing a new learning curve. Anyway, I can snap some photos tonight. Let me know if this topic would be better followed in a new thread.

Thanks!

While there are some Badger parts that will physically fit the Model A, I personally try to avoid having to go own that road. The quality and performance is never the same (in my opinion)... There have not been many Model A's that I could not get back in to decent working condition simply using a deep cleaning, and a bit of minor adjusting. In those cases where they just will not come around, I will usually just bide my time until I can pick another up for parts - they do come up sometimes for very low prices...

As Ismael mentioned, the regulator cap is generally set to three turns out from fully screwed in. Screwing them all the way in will generally completely cut of air flow.

 

[tatocorvette]

Honestly, been mentioned in the same sentence as Dave is a huge honor for me (and probably a shame for Dave )
The tube shank, needle tube and most hardware behind the trigger is compatible with earlier 100 series Badger.
Regulators and heads are not interchangeable, but I think you can use a Badger head/reg combo in a Model A. Haven't tried myself. I have used Badger fine needles on Model A.
The air valve is different and will not fit. At least in older Model A. The Badger casing will have to be machined to make it fit. There are several types of triggers even between some Model As. I have seen Badger triggers on late Model As but may not always fit depending on how vintage the Model A is.
Back to my meeting

 

[SalkehatchieSmiles]

Honestly, been mentioned in the same sentence as Dave is a huge honor for me (and probably a shame for Dave )
The tube shank, needle tube and most hardware behind the trigger is compatible with earlier 100 series Badger.
Regulators and heads are not interchangeable, but I think you can use a Badger head/reg combo in a Model A. Haven't tried myself. I have used Badger fine needles on Model A.
The air valve is different and will not fit. At least in older Model A. The Badger casing will have to be machined to make it fit. There are several types of triggers even between some Model As. I have seen Badger triggers on late Model As but may not always fit depending on how vintage the Model A is.
Back to my meeting

For what it's worth, you're doing great!

Now that I know how to work the darn thing and have an idea of how it's assembled, I may not need replacement parts, but it's good to have a resource. At the very least, I may want to replace the needle at some point.

This airbrush is going to be fun to figure out, as it's completely different from the entire rest of my collection. I'm embarrassed to share how long I looked for the back spring that HAD to have fallen out somewhere before I realized that it was actually INSIDE the tube shank.

It definitely seems like it has a solid construction, and it feels GREAT in my hand, so now I just have to get it to spray something!