Rob Afton
Young Tutorling
Ok first lemme say that, as far as experience goes I’ve been airbrushshing for about 5 years now as a hobby, I mainly do models and gaming miniatures. I started on a masters G-22 it’s a Chinese 30.00 airbrush with 3 dif nozzle/needle combos, I also bought an iwata HP-C+ shortly after the masters but didn’t use it, because my masters was doing great work and the parts are more expensive for my Iwata. This g-22 finally broke 4 years of hard work, it was in bad shape near the end, Teflon tape at the nozzle worn rubber seals, etc.... the iwata dont use rubber as will all quality airbrushes. Here is my issue. The iwata sprays much more paint, Even when only pulling back 1mm I can get much thinner lines with the .3mm iwata than with the masters and it feels like a quality machine. If I was doing traditional illustration, it would be great far superior to the masters G-22. But when it comes to what I need it for laying down highly atomized transparent layers of paint on models only 32mm - 6cm tall. The cheap airbrush wins! I don’t know if a setting is off on the iwata, or what but as of now the iwata doesn’t get used much and it’s getting beat by the the cheap masters G-22. This has halted my plans of buying HANS “infinity” and “evolution” basically I can’t find a reason to not use the masters, it dose what the iwata does and in addition can lay down dusty light transparent layers, something the iwata doesn’t seem to do it’s always much more paint, sure it also fades a line any airbrush does but the lightest end of the stroke with the iwata is like the stroke full blast on the masters. I am thinking this maybe learning to use a cheap airbrush first maybe but I can’t seem to get the HP-c+ to lay light coats. Is this just the brush as in that’s how it’s designed?
Also paint in HP-c plus needs to be thinner than in master G-22. It’s worth it to note that everyone that I know that bought expensive brushes aren’t able to do what I am doing with my cheap airbrush. They have similar promance to the my iwata basically weather it’s a small line or fat line it doesn’t matter they all spray the same transparency amount in a faded stroke with AB. I am prob not explain this correctly but the neo and HP-CS eclipse spray like my G-22, it should since the G22 is a Knock off eclipse.
That’s what I mean buy is it just the brush. As in this brush was designed to spray a lot of highly fluid paint, were as my G22 is a shader brush?
I’ve included a Wip and finished figure so you can see the texhnic I am referring to of what I call glazing with the Air brush... these both couldn’t be done with my iwata, at least not by me, yet with the masters it’s like one hour of work. Any help or ideas ?
Also paint in HP-c plus needs to be thinner than in master G-22. It’s worth it to note that everyone that I know that bought expensive brushes aren’t able to do what I am doing with my cheap airbrush. They have similar promance to the my iwata basically weather it’s a small line or fat line it doesn’t matter they all spray the same transparency amount in a faded stroke with AB. I am prob not explain this correctly but the neo and HP-CS eclipse spray like my G-22, it should since the G22 is a Knock off eclipse.
That’s what I mean buy is it just the brush. As in this brush was designed to spray a lot of highly fluid paint, were as my G22 is a shader brush?
I’ve included a Wip and finished figure so you can see the texhnic I am referring to of what I call glazing with the Air brush... these both couldn’t be done with my iwata, at least not by me, yet with the masters it’s like one hour of work. Any help or ideas ?