SM K33 ?

@DaveG how do you find your Grex that one shown? Performance etc... All the info is appreciated.
What could you say about the nozzle? They say it's weak place of Grex brand.
I like the body of this AB, it's very convenient to hold. Your AB is side feed as I understand.

Vladimir, my Grex is actually an "A" cup, not side feed. I purchased it to see what they are like. I don't think I will be purchasing another ;).

Being an "A" cup, the intention was to use it for small, detail oriented work. The build quality actually looks pretty good. The finishes are all very clean, and blemish free. The parts seem to fit together well, and the brush feels fairly solid, and not cheap in the hand. It will also produce the type of detail that I was looking to use it for. Being a .2 set up, it will produce the same sort of detail and fine line work that one would expect from a decent .2 airbrush - the downside is that this particular brush REALLY makes me work for it.

I have not replaced the springs on either the needle chuck, or air valve, but I have clipped and compressed them, looking to improve trigger feel. It remains quite stiff, and tiring to use. I am pretty good at manipulating a trigger to feel the way I like, but this one has fought me pretty good. The stiffness of the air valve spring makes the trigger feel more like an on/off switch, and is difficult regulate. Once I am determined to make the best of the trigger, I start to see the detail that I want, and there lays another issue. There is something about the way the cup is shaped, or the way paint is drawn along the needle that is very unpredictable on this brush. I feel like I never know when paint flow might be initiated. The cup is also perhaps just a hair too deep, as there remains a lip where paint would be drawn along the needle, and it becomes difficult to clean out quickly. I have kept this one because it has shown some promising results, but I find it very tiring to use. I do plan on eventually working on it to see if I can make it more user friendly.

I have not had any issues with the nozzle, nor the needle thus far. I will try a decent macro shot on those parts to see if I can get some images for you to examine.

If it is a side cup you are looking for, I have been working on a "Veda" or "Fengda" type side feed like the other imports we have talked about in the past, and it has really started coming around. This one did take some work to get good performance out of - but it is really working well.
 
Thank you Ronald and Dave!
After your replies I'll think twice before trying Grex and lean towards rather not to try.

Macro would be interesting, thanx.

I asked about the brush as I have side feed Olympos and like the performance of it much and also how feels in the hand, it's very comfortable.
My first AB was just the AB you mention (Veda/Fengda). It was produced at the same factory.
I liked it much, but could use it only with WB paint and never with urethanes for the reason of rubber seals on the cup and the bottle, so sold it like new.
And the air pressure regulator coming with the AB is a great thing! For the time I used it, it never give me any air leak unlike those with side regulation. And the regulation is very comfortable, just turning the regulator up and down, what is comfortable from any position. Unfortunately I can't find them being sold separately. Need to find them somewhere. The regulator is on the photo.


2.JPG
 
...The stiffness of the air valve spring makes the trigger feel more like an on/off switch, and is difficult regulate...

Statements like this always baffels me. I know you want the action softer, I use soft springs myself, but on/off is all you want. You do not regulate the air with the trigger.
 
Statements like this always baffels me. I know you want the action softer, I use soft springs myself, but on/off is all you want. You do not regulate the air with the trigger.
Maybe you don't regulate air flow with the trigger - but, I sure do.
 
Thank you Ronald and Dave!
After your replies I'll think twice before trying Grex and lean towards rather not to try.

Macro would be interesting, thanx.
View attachment 48076

Vladimir, I think the valve you are referring to, is what would be called a MAC valve. I have one on my hose, and use it all the time. I still regulate some air pressure at the trigger, of course depending on what I am working on. Some brushes allow for good regulation, some are more like an on/off switch...

This is the brush I have been working with - I needed to make a bushing to reduce the size of the side hole to accept a smaller side cup, as the one that came with it is a large 20cc number. This build, like some of the others I have been working with will accept a Micron head and needle, although I am using it with factory parts. It has an adjustable teflon needle packing.master sb86 1.jpg
 
good to know that I have had no idea what I am doing for the last 26 years... thank you for clearing that up for me. [emoji106]
I just read my post again and I did not say that. I simply stated that nobody regulates their air with the triggers. Pressing down 30% while pulling back the trigger 10% sounds like a task I do not want to try.
 
...nobody regulates their air with the triggers....

So, if I say "I regulate airflow with my trigger", or that "I prefer a brush with a trigger that will allow me to do this", and you say that "nobody regulates their air with the triggers", what are you saying?

Now, I am not always the sharpest tack in the box, but I sure can not figure out another way to read that, other than you are either telling me that I am lying, or that I have no idea what I am doing when I do it. Either way, I will concede to your being correct, and thank you for clearing up my misconception about how I work :thumbsup:
 
One thing that baffles me is people who "clip" their springs... but that gets into the issue of spring preload, which also baffles me :rolleyes:
 
So, if I say "I regulate airflow with my trigger", or that "I prefer a brush with a trigger that will allow me to do this", and you say that "nobody regulates their air with the triggers", what are you saying?

Now, I am not always the sharpest tack in the box, but I sure can not figure out another way to read that, other than you are either telling me that I am lying, or that I have no idea what I am doing when I do it. Either way, I will concede to your being correct, and thank you for clearing up my misconception about how I work :thumbsup:

I'm sure you are regulating it and you are obviously good at it as I have seen your work. But nobody else is. Everybody is happy with the on/off function. Create a poll on the Iwata/Badger/Olympos/Master/No-name Chinese Facebook page and see how many does it.
 
I'm sure you are regulating it and you are obviously good at it as I have seen your work. But nobody else is. Everybody is happy with the on/off function. Create a poll on the Iwata/Badger/Olympos/Master/No-name Chinese Facebook page and see how many does it.

Yeah, I have thought about this a little - and I would assume you began airbrushing since the introduction of MAC valve, either on a brush or hose, rather than just a tank regulator. We didn't have that option when I started airbrushing. I do remember the introduction of the MAC valve on the Iwata brush bodies (HiLine models), but did not purchase one at that time. So, you either learned good trigger control, or spent an awful lot of time changing your regulator.

I don't really care much what people might answer today, because what I would say is that they probably just don't know any better, or any differently, at least... From my perspective, if you do not know what it feels like to have a trigger that allows you to easily regulate your air pressure, then you are missing out on what a truly nice trigger action is.
 
Yeah, I have thought about this a little - and I would assume you began airbrushing since the introduction of MAC valve, either on a brush or hose, rather than just a tank regulator. We didn't have that option when I started airbrushing. I do remember the introduction of the MAC valve on the Iwata brush bodies (HiLine models), but did not purchase one at that time. So, you either learned good trigger control, or spent an awful lot of time changing your regulator.

I don't really care much what people might answer to today, because what I would say is that they probably just don't know any better, or any differently, at least... From my perspective, if you do not know what it feels like to have a trigger that allows you to easily regulate your air pressure, then you are missing out on what a truly nice trigger action is.

No I started in 1992 with a Badger 150 that I still have with a compressor in the corner of the back yard and a hose running along the length of the house through an open window. You set the regulator and you left it there. You did everything at the same pressure and changed the ink to match the pressure. I would still love to see you ask the question to people that's been doing it for as long as you have.
 
well, that is a completely new one on me - change ink/paint to match pressure, and leave the reg alone? I can see that on T-shirts, but on illustration? So, when you wanted to do fine detail, would you go thicker on ink, or thinner? I mean thinner at high pressure sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. And, for you, what makes it any different today? You set your MAC valve and leave it? Adjust paint consistency, and go from there?
 
well, that is a completely new one on me - change ink/paint to match pressure, and leave the reg alone? I can see that on T-shirts, but on illustration? So, when you wanted to do fine detail, would you go thicker on ink, or thinner? I mean thinner at high pressure sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. And, for you, what makes it any different today? You set your MAC valve and leave it? Adjust paint consistency, and go from there?

Then I left the regulator on 25psi and now I leave it on 30psi. I did not do detail back then and if I did I used frisket. It was only a 150 with a medium setup which is still like a 0.5 today. Now I'm wiser and play with the mac valve.
 
yes, quite familiar with the 150, as I have had several over the years. Same type head assembly as the 100 series of brushes, which I am very familiar with. These were the first brushes after a Paasche that I had any experience with. I used the Paasche once, and purchased the Badger the next day. I eventually had them all - from the "A" cup to "C", as well as the side feed (still have a couple of these). All the work that I still have images of from this time are on an old Mac ZIP drive disk... I assure you there was a good bit of detail involved.
 
Vladimir, I think the valve you are referring to, is what would be called a MAC valve. I have one on my hose, and use it all the time. I still regulate some air pressure at the trigger, of course depending on what I am working on. Some brushes allow for good regulation, some are more like an on/off switch...

This is the brush I have been working with - I needed to make a bushing to reduce the size of the side hole to accept a smaller side cup, as the one that came with it is a large 20cc number. This build, like some of the others I have been working with will accept a Micron head and needle, although I am using it with factory parts. It has an adjustable teflon needle packing.View attachment 48077

Exactly, it's MAC valve. I'm just saying it's more comfortable to work with then with "usual" MACs used these days, those with side regulation screw.
As I understand it's knock-off of old Olympos external MAC which was included in plastic box with the Microns. I've seen them coming with MP-200C.

I thought about the model you've shown also, but I don't like longer bodies. My preference for microns is short body. I mean for freehand work. I like CM-SB and MP-200A.
 
...but I don't like longer bodies. My preference for microns is short body. I mean for freehand work. I like CM-SB and MP-200A.

I see what you are saying about the inline MAC valve, that would be an interesting option. I use the Grex, with external wheel adjustment. I like it because it takes a lot of movement to make an adjustment, with 3 full turns between on and off. Having no wheel to inadvertently hit would be a good option!

And, yes, this one is long body. It is the same as the "B" cup brushes that I have been using, and I have adapted to using the brushes MAC valve as a finger rest/hand hold for my other hand. Took a bit of getting used to, but I would see no reason (other than curiosity) to surrender a shorter bodied Olympos to use this ;)
 
You've already mentioned somewhere about Grex MAC concerning long movement and no air leaks. I keep that in mind for maybe somehow I'll buy one to try.

I remember using similar brush with MAC, I moved sometimes the regulator when resting the finger on it;)

BTW Dave, have you taken any pictures of the bushing making process? I'm thinking to do this to certain AB.
And how is the cleaning now? Are you sure all the paint is removed after the cleaning?
Have you used for cutting the hole let say that conic cutter? (I have no clue about proper translation for the tool).
What material was used? Brass?
What kind of a solder was used?

You know, for me it matters much the body length for pulling long lines, I mean not a long line at once but line created by many dagger strokes, short body is more convenient. I concerns freehand.
Where scratching and erasing is the trick, whether the body is long or short it doesn't really matter.
 
You've already mentioned somewhere about Grex MAC concerning long movement and no air leaks. I keep that in mind for maybe somehow I'll buy one to try.

I remember using similar brush with MAC, I moved sometimes the regulator when resting the finger on it;) ...

I will upload a few pictures in another thread (under airbrushes) to describe the work I did on that brush. Basically I used a material called "Delrin", a solvent and wear resistant polymer. Because the hole I was pressing the bushing into was tapered, it created a taper in the Delrin insert by compressing it more as it went in. I removed the head assembly, and drilled in from the front to cut the insert to be flush with the inside wall of the body. The tight press seal does not allow for paint to be drawn in behind it... I left the other side of the brush with stock hole, and can use a punch to remove the bushing I inserted. Delrin is a very wear resistant material, and offers an excellent seal against the brush body, and color cup stem.

If I used brass to do an insert, I would have to cut the outside to match the inner taper of the hole it was going to go into (or drill out the brush body), and then a reamer to cut a taper on the inside...sb86 bushing insert1.jpg

I should mention too, that this particular build uses an O-ring seal on the interior of the MAC valve, which acts to keep some tension on the screw, so it is not overly easy to turn.
 
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