So frustrated, but don't want to give up. Help!

atawag

Young Tutorling
Hi, all. I'm a newbie airbrusher. My goals are to be able to prime, zenethal highlight, and then apply base coats to my Infinity table top wargame models. I've seen plenty of YouTube tutorials on how to do these things, mostly Vince Venturella stuff, but it seems doable and pretty basic if I can just figure out how to work my airbrush correctly.

Vince recommends (for beginners) the Master Airbrush G22 kit that comes with a Master Airbrush Compressor Model TC-20. I understand that this is not a high quality airbrush, but I just want to do basic things with it and I've seen it recommended as a starter airbrush in so many places, so I have to believe my problems are user error and not the airbrush itself.

Anyway, my problem. I've watched tutorial after tutorial about cleaning your airbrush both between colors and deep cleaning. I've learned about tip dry. I've learned about push down, pull back, push forward before releasing the trigger so that you don't clog the nozzle, etc. But for the life of me, my airbrush clogs or splutters constantly. I'm using vallejo surface primer and the rest of their model paint line, thinned with their official thinning agent. I've tried different ratios, from milk consistency to practically just water. I have the compressor set at 30psi. I actually have tried two of these airbrushes because I accidentally broke the nozzle on the first one, but both have given me the same trouble.

I have certainly experienced tip dry, but scraping that off generally doesn't solve the problem. It's like the paint is almost instantly gumming up inside the nozzle deeper than the tip. There are times when I clean the brush as thoroughly as possible, dry everything out, then just push the trigger down for air flow without pulling the trigger back and it still spits and splutters.

I really enjoyed the 3 minutes of success I've had in airbrushing before things went sideways and if I can just get this figured out, I know that painting model after model can turn into a joy, especially because I feel like Infinity models need to be bright and clean, perfect for airbrush work. But things are currently so frustrating. Any help you guys can give would be so very appreciated. I'd be more than happy to answer specific questions if you need more information to diagnose the problem. Thanks so much to anyone who can help me out.
 
Firstly welcome :) a proper intro is appreciated but not compulsory, if you pop your location into your profile we can maybe suggest local suppliers and you never know you may just have a member 'just down the road' than could offer some personal assistance.
Ok, lets take your issues one at a time.
is this the kit you got ?

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G22 is a 'generic' .3 needle airbrush and as such they can either be good or bad, unfortunately normally the latter.
this compressor is tankless, they have a tendency to pulse so you don't get a consistent pressure and if you plan on painting for more than 10 minutes it will likely burn out fairly quickly. the model with the tank is preferable.
a google search tells me it should have an outlet pressure of between 15-45 psi;
Vallejo website suggests a pressure of between 15-20 PSI but I can't see a recommended needle size, the .3o that you have in the airbrush may be a little small for the primer. (most primers seem to appreciate a .5)

so here are my thoughts/questions.
  • when setting a PSI on the compressor ALWAYS have the trigger pressed on your airbrush. the psi drops significantly when the trigger is pressed. so if you have the regulator set 30 it can drop to 20 while you are spraying and if your paint is to thick it will definitely need the full 20psi and consistently
  • You say you reduce the primer, but are you using the Vallejo Airbrush Thinner of Flow Improver, using a 'homemade' reducer can cause issues.
  • tip dry when you are learning is almost compulsory, it will get better with time - you won't ever totally get rid of tipdry but you learn to recognise when it starts and remove it before it builds up to a big mess and cause spluttering.

before hitting your models do some practise on paper (printer paper/paper towels/ inside of your breakfast cereal box - whatever you can get hold of. ). grab some food colouring and practise your technique to build up your muscle memory. Drop your PSI to 10 ~15 because you will be spraying 'water'
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I seem to have gone down the rabbit hole here and could probably keep going but I'll stop for now and give you chance to elaborate a bit more and let others chime in as well :)
 
ok....... I've done some google diving because I don't do models or use Vallejo.....
a question was asked on one of the model sites. . . sounds very much like the issue you are having.

"I encountered a problem I cannot solve: when using vellejo surface primer, it allways cogs. I tried thinning it with water, vallejo thinner and adding some flow improver. Nothing works. People on youtube are using it straigth out of the bottle. I dont know what I'm doing wrong. It allways cogs withhin seconds in the frontmost part of the gun.

Also I'm mostly thinning down GW or Vallejo paints in smaller bottles. Right now I'm using about 1 part paint, 2 parts water and 0.5 parts flow improver. The paint seems to be a little to thin like this, but if I add less water the gun cogs somehow (it only spits out paint when i move the trigger back and forth). Could anyone tell me how to proper thin it down for airbrushing?"
A couple of answers that seem very reasonable:
"I use the stuff all the time. Your PSI sounds good, my concern is around thinning it and the needle size. I use a 0.4mm needle and about 30 PSI and I'm getting solid results. It could be old primer or not shaken enough."

"I usually just do 1:3 (flow improver : primer) "
As more info was provided by the original poster it turned out his brush was a .2 (nowhere near big enough for primers) because that was what he was given.
I hope this is somewhat helpful from someone who has no clue about Modelling :D
 
Thank you for your responses! After looking back at my Amazon order, I can confirm the kit I bought is the one that you (JackEb) pictured. I was thinking it was a .5mm needle, but clearly that isn't the case, it's .3mm. So perhaps the problem, as you already noted, is that the needle size is too small for primer? I did a quick amazon search and its not too expensive to get a .5 needle, nozzle, and cap kit for the G22. Do you think this would be a good investment? On that same line, I have noticed that the normal vallejo paints do seem to flow a bit better than the primer, so do you think the .5 would be too big for the normal paint line? Would I have to switch between sizes depending on whether I'm priming or not?

Also, a few other newbie questions, if it's ok...

I've seen charts that show the internal workings of airbrushes and it all makes sense. But one thing that isn't clear on the diagrams... clearly when you press down but don't pull the trigger back, the needle stays blocking the nozzle so paint can't come out, but you clearly get a flow of air. Forgive the really dumb question, but where is the air coming from? What other hole is there for it to come out? I ask mostly because in my experimentation without paint or anything in the pot at all, with the nozzle guard and cap off so the nozzle and needle are exposed, I can hold down the trigger (but not pull back) and condensation seems to form in the space between the needle/nozzle and the outer shell of the airbrush. I should think this wouldn't be happening...? But again, it's done it on both G22 airbrushes I've used.

If it turns out the G22 line is just too hit or miss as to whether the brush itself is worth it compared to the problems it causes simply by being a cheap brush, what would be the next line of airbrushes up that is not super expensive but you can have some assurance that the brush itself won't be the source of your woes? Again, I'm looking at fairly basic operations. Priming and base-coating pewter and plastic miniatures is all I need to do. I've heard of the Badger Patriot 105, but it seems like every time I read reviews (of pretty much anything), for however many supporters, there's always at least a few who tell their horror stories of how bad it is (regardless of model or brand), so I'm nervous about investing a larger amount of money, though the money is there if I have confidence in what I'm purchasing.

Anyway, I'll probably have more questions, but I thank you for the responses and extra research on my behalf. I really appreciate it!
 
when you press the trigger you are opening the air valve that is located under the trigger and that is where you air comes from , the airbrush cant function without the nozzle cap and there is no need to take it off unless you need to remove the nozzle for what ever reason .

If you want to go for a good quality airbrush check out the mr. Hobby airbrushes and you should also look for a compressor with a tank
 
I play 40k as well as do illustration, and honestly you have a couple things working against you here. The first it the Master airbruses are notorious for having leaks, not maintaining a consistent pressure, and having issues with nozzles and needles. The second is the vallejo primer. It is waaaay too thick as shipped.

All is not lost however. Most of the G / Master series brushes can be brought up to snuff by doing a couple of things. The first is properly polishing the needle, using finishing paper for automotive. 3000 grit or above. Then polish with some silvo and a bit of paper towel until you get a super shiny needle tip. Take care not to blunt the needle. Polish from the body out toward the tip. This will help immensely.

Second, get some beeswax. Hook up the brush to the compressor, put some soapy water around the airbrush, and put some air through. Any leaks or gaps will bubble. Wash, disassemble and put a tiny itty bit of beeswax in the threads of the bubbly join, you can spread it around a bit by warming a tiny bit with a lighter. Reassemble, wipe off excess beeswax. It turns a $50 brush into a $150 brush.

Last, the primer... it absolutely HAS to be reduced, and ideally filtered through a piece of panty hose. It is an unusually "chunky" primer. So it dries quick and clogs easily.

I think vallejo sells their own reducer, but liquitex airbrush medium, and flow aid, or even created 4013 works pretty well. Thin it down to the point that it is a bit thinner in consistency than skim milk.

It should spray easily now.

However, you will need multiple passes. Set out your minis, do your black or base color, let dry and do it a few more times. If you go slow, use multiple coats and let things dry between coats, you'll get a lovely thin layer that won't obscure model detail. Once done, then take your white or light color, blast once from overhead, wait until it dries, rinse, repeat, until you get the contrast you want. It will take a bit, and LET IT DRY. Paint changes color as it dries and what you thought was bright enough when it was wet, will go much darker.

If you discover you love the effect, set aside some money for an Iwata Eclipse or Paasche Talon. (I'd go eclipse). So much less maintenance, much more spray control, easier cleanup, and you can safely spray solvent based paints when you need them, without risk of messing up any o-rings, as they are all teflon and solvent resistant.

If you get really into it, you might want a detail brush like a sotar 20/20 or micron (high end) to do fine detail, but that's a ways off for a beginner.
 
I’ll come back shortly but this may help your question about the air / paint path

upload_2021-9-4_7-45-15.jpeg
 
condensation seems to form in the space between the needle/nozzle and the outer shell of the airbrush. I should think this wouldn't be happening...? But again, it's done it on both G22 airbrushes I've used.

not completely sure where you’re describing is BUT if you are spraying water out of an empty airbrush the it’s condensation from your overworked compressor. As a cheap band aid fix you can use a moisture trap at the brush.
I personally would suggest returning the kit if you can.
Where do you live, we’re more than happy to do some hunting for you to find a reasonable priced starter ‘kit’
 
Sorry it took me a while to reply, real life issues (including kidney stones, ack!) have prevented me posting before now. So I ordered the .5mm needle and nozzle for my G22 and it has made a world of difference. I was able to do both regular vallejo colors as well as the surface primer with no clogs, just a bit of tip dry on one occasion with the primer. I did have a period where the primer came out watery, but it didn't splutter or act clogged, so I think that might have been due to my mixture/thinning of the paint rather than anything else. If this continues to work well, it will serve as a good foundation of success to gain some skills that hopefully will help me to transition back to the .3mm needle for more delicate work in the future. Thank you for your help! I foresee coming back with more questions in the future!
 
Sorry it took me a while to reply, real life issues (including kidney stones, ack!) have prevented me posting before now. So I ordered the .5mm needle and nozzle for my G22 and it has made a world of difference. I was able to do both regular vallejo colors as well as the surface primer with no clogs, just a bit of tip dry on one occasion with the primer. I did have a period where the primer came out watery, but it didn't splutter or act clogged, so I think that might have been due to my mixture/thinning of the paint rather than anything else. If this continues to work well, it will serve as a good foundation of success to gain some skills that hopefully will help me to transition back to the .3mm needle for more delicate work in the future. Thank you for your help! I foresee coming back with more questions in the future!
Glad your spraying well,
Don’t be a stranger, we like to see what members are working on, we aren’t just here to help when you strike trouble :)
 
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