Softball helmet, paint reaction??

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IgorsCloset

Guest
Ok guys, I'm working on a softball helmet and I have run into a problem. I have scuffed with the typical green brillo pad and got it all dull. However, when I try to lay down my light blue it coagulates in a funky pattern like it's having a reaction. I'm going to have to prime this this aren't I?

I have done helmets before and never had this reaction, however I never used SpectraTex on helmets. Always Createx and Wicked. I'm putting on a thin layer and it just isn't taking it at all.
 
Dang....What color of helmet is it?
I have always used AA. Did you clean and or tack cloth after scuffing?
Do you have oil or grease in the area from your fingers or hand?
Are you reducing the paint too much?
Thats all I can think of.....
 
It's Neon Yellow. Was a PITA to scuff too! W/e clear they used it was HARD and STOUT!

I don't reduce SpectraTex. Even out of a siphon fed ab, I can spray most colors at about 35 psi.

Oil and grease, perhaps but I did clean it. I'll try again after recleaning and see what happens.

Thanks bub.
 
I wouldn't use a green brillo pad. some are treated with chemicals or have soap impregnated in them. Aside from that, they are non abrasive so they don't scuff for crap. This is why you can use them on cleaning your dishes, so they won't scratch. It's best to use a grey or red scotchbrite pad. I typically use grey (especially on factory clear coats)but use red occasionally for basecoat applications that really need good adhesion such as underhood. Red is the most coarse (well they make a brown and black but not common) Grey is fine (think 1000grit) and White is superfine (think 2000grit). Green pad would be off the scale at 4000grit or so. What did you wipe it down with after scuffing? Did you clean the helmet BEFORE you scuffed, if you didn't, then you essentially sanded contaminates into the helmet that you won't be able to get out. Also certain plastics don't accept paint as good as others. Was the helmet new or used. I always prime plastics if they are used, and usually do with brand new too. It's good practice to use a plastics adhesion promoter as well. Since you are having a reaction, adhesion isn't the problem atm, but you have some kind of contamination. Spectratex while touted to be usable on all surfaces, is more of a textile/tshirt paint. Yes you can paint on metal and other porous surfaces, but it has to be laid down in extremely thin coats, allowed to dry, then build up your layers. Counter productive IMO.
 
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also what brand is the helmet? They all use different types of "Clear" to seal their helmets and some are just raw ABS plastic. Also using 1000grit wet sandpaper will work well on prepping plastics, followed by a grey pad. I always use soap with my water for sandpaper and when scuffing plastic with a pad, I use water and ajax.
 
Thanks IC, but there's nowhere around here had 1000 grit and I used a green brillo like i always did before.

NOW It's flat out fisheyeing and I bought degreaser cleaner at the auto parts wanna be store and used it but still doing it.

Brand is Worth? I think. something like that.
 
Oh, and just now, to add to the mix up, they're possibly switching teams. Meaning, changing numbers and colors.....

She did say they were going to pay me again. So, we'll see.
 
a lot of the store in a can degreasers have oils in them and waterbased isn't compatible with them. you really have to make sure you wipe as soon as it's sprayed or it will stick. I've had that crap fisheye urethane before too. I prefer using waterbased degreasers and you can essentially make your own. If you were able to buy degreaser in a can, you should be able to buy red or grey pads. autozone and all the auto parts stores carry them. They also carry 1000grit sandpaper as well, I buy them there all the time. Also depends which degreaser you bought. Some are for removing tar and oil, they have oil in them, and some like the prep all in a can is a actual degreaser but it's still a little oily. Just wash it off with warm soap and water instead of using the canned stuff. For plastic you can wipe it down with alcohol then use soap and water and you are good to go.
 
oops forgot my waterbased degreaser formula lol.

5% dishwashing liquid, 50% methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), 5% Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda), 40% Water


 
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Thanks guys.

Well, it is Dupli-Color Grease and Was Remover "Makes Pre-Paint Prep simple and fast" it says. Yeup, on the back "Aceton and Esterified Soybean Oil.

So yeah, It's probably the degreaser. I never thought about incompatibility to the paint. I used to help a friend paint cars. I'd help prep by wet sanding etc and wiping it down with the cleaner. Bit more rusty than I thought I'd be, lol. But than again, I did only paint shirts for 2 years and out of it for a year about.
 
Had similar issues before, especially on un-primed plastic..It could be the degreaser but I use auto degreaser all the time and it hasn't caused any issues but perhaps your brand is a different degreaser, especially if it states there is oil in it (That seems weird for a degreaser LOL), personally on plastics I'll always use a plastic adhesion promotor or specialized plastic bases as with plastic you want the bonding to be chemical adhesion rather than physical. If its just sitting on the surface, often it will peel, even when you figure your adhesion is awesome and these days I prefer not to chance it..GL
 
yup I don't like duplicolor paint products they are junk. I really wished all in the can stuff would disappear. Their product is compatible with it, but most others aren't. It's because all of their paint products have oil in it. You can make any paint compatible with it (well urethane paints) by adding a drop of what is now called fisheye eliminator, but all it really is, is just transmission fluid. This makes everything compatible. Not recommended to do for longevity but it DOES work. The soybean oil is a newer thing that is lower VOC cleaning product. Here we go again with the low VOC bs. Soybean oil is a natural solvent (and we consume the crap everyday) and all I see that it REALLY does is create an incompatibility between paints, but ooooh ITS GREEN. seriously though, degreasing with oil, THAT makes a ton of sense when you are trying to get rid of grease WITH grease. Take this as a little lesson, just because it says it does something, doesn't mean it will do it with something else. Use one system and stick with it throughout the process unless you know for a FACT they are compatible.
 
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Haven't read all the thread, so apologies if I'm repeating something, but if it's plastic, then I would definately use a plastic primer, and also is there any water in your airline? Anyway hope you get it resolved soon :)
 
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