Someone please save me!!!!!



Hey guys,

I'm a week and a half days old in terms of airbrushing and i've run into a huge road block (let's face it no one likes road blocks). When i pull my trigger back full charge a really small amount of paint comes out and once i snap off it squirts paint out, i am completely mind f'ed. Also occasionally when i pull the trigger back paint comes out periodically, actually pulsating like.

I then thought "Hey! maybe i should reduce the paint! What a genius!"(I'm using createx opaques btw and illustration base as a reducer) and the same thing happened. Then i thought why not turn down the PSI, because i was running at like 35PSI and took it down to 25 and the problem persists. I also tried taking it up to like 45 and thats when i noticed the pulsating of the paint and yes the problem was still laughing hysterically in my face.

I've cleaned the brush several times like a mother would bathe her infant child and still no "hey i'm all good" from my AB. I've gently cleaned my nozzle and got cured pigment out, but alas, no success on my end. I'm using a local brand airbrush from South Africa (Aircraft SG130K), because i'm all about being patriotic. The AB is pretty close to an Iwata HP-C in terms of mechanics.

So if any of you wonderful folk have any solutions, i would greatly appreciate it and give you a huge virtual hug if you'd like one.

PS airbrushtutor is awesome, i've really learnt a lot.

Peace, Love and Prosperity!
First off you will need to clean the Nozzle of the airbrush..
A lot of time just blowing cleaning through it when you are finished for the day it not enough , You have to soak it.
I suggest Restorer made by Createx , But Denatured Alcohol will also break up the dried paint inside the nozzle.

The next question is what type of paint are you using.. Water base , Urethane ?
Also being you say it is like the Iwata check to see if the nozzle is seated correctly and the nozzle cap is not leaking air.
The way I check for the nozzle cap leakage is spray a little soak and water on it and see if bubble come out places it should not.
The only other thing is the needle bearing seal , Iwata uses teflon for this but the standard use to be rubber and some companies still use rubber .
But when you push the needle in you should feel resistance prior to the needle seating into the nozzle. if you do not than you may need to adjust the needle bearing.

Hope some of this information helps.
Warning Flags:

1. Like an Iwata - many copycats, still none that have kept the quality standards of Iwata. From a quick search it looks like you have a .3 nozzle.
2. Createx Opaque - Very thick paint, will usually not spray well unless you have a .5 nozzle and they recommend at least 45-50PSI from what I recall
3. Illustration Base - it is not a reducer, it makes the paint more transparent, it is essentially paint without pigment.

Try reducing with some water for now, to see if it is the brush or paint.
Put 4 drops of water to one drop of paint, see if it sprays consistent.
Also illustration base isn't reducer. ... its paint without pigment. ... use brand specific reducer or water at a push to thin or reduce your paint
Ah I see jagardn had me covered on that bit. .... Cheers jeff
welcome from sunny South Africa :) OH wait -- you are from here too :)
ok - to add to Mr Micron's wise words - denatured alchohol is the same as meths - the purple methelated spirits in plastic bottle.
then - you haven't mentioned what compressor you are using - that MIGHT account for the pulsating when other things are wrong with your AB.
And - take a toothpick - sharpen it to a similar shape as the needle, soak it in the meths and use that to GENTLY ream out any paint from the nozzle. be very carefull not to JAM it in the nozzle, and sometimes - being so thin - splinters have been left behind in my nozzles - watch for that - the alternative is the bristles form a hairy brush or an old needle roughed up and tipped with a very little cotton wool.
another thing to remember is that the base is NOT a reducer.
and,for now, my company has an account with the importers of the SG130K, so if you need any parts let me know

edit - while I was typing our learned friends above posted :)
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Welcome to the forum, listen to the others they will get you going in the right direction, and fly will even get you recommendations for around home.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thanks a bunch for all the input guys, i'll give them a go in the morow because i'm pretty sure all the peeps are leaving the stores as we speak. I'm using a Ryan compressor 2HP-24LT if any of you know this brand. Cheers for the hook up flycatchr i really appreciate it because i've been trying to find a place that sells Aircraft spares and it was such a mission to find a place that sells spares for my model.

Once again cheers for all the help guys, you guys are ninja's for replying so quick. I'll keep you posted on her health (My AB is a her, her name is Adrianna :) thought i'd give her a name)
pleasure faux :) - I do so hope adrianna doesn't mind company, I am sure pretty soon you will be naming more :)
Sooo i got myself a bottle of denatured alcohol and gave my nozzle and needle a nice clean. I loaded the cup with 4 drops of water and a drop of createx opaque black. She worked like a dream for a while then i got continuous paint and that ever so lovely pulsating spray. Just to give you an idea of what i'm working with i did a few lines and took this...


i hope this helps. i'm really itching to practice:apologetic:
With standard Createx 8 to 1 through a .30 works great.
Also strain the paint through a piece of pantyhose to get the clumps out. As stated before Standard Createx is designed for .5 needle set up at 60 PSI.. So when trying to do fine art with it you have to work harder at it.
Mix up 75% water with 25 % of the denatured alcohol and use that for your reducer. It will help break down the clumps and give you better flow.

Wow I just notice I am now a pain in the airhose...:D Maybe my wife has been right all these years???