spiders webs

I

ian groves

Guest
im currenctly using wicked paint and today I got a delievery of some transparent so I thought I could start working more and more on my layers .I put 4 drops of a colour in and 4 drops of trans (no reducere) and no mater how low I had my pressure even down to around 5-10 I still getting spiders webs close up .anyone guide me in the right direction.im not loving the wicked paint at all and a few have said its no good im just trying to use it seeing I bloody paid for it lol
 
LOL Tight arse just like me, nothing wrong with that, ha ha ha

It's hard for me to describe this so I hope you understand, If I work up close I generally use between 5 t0 10 PSI depending on thinning and so, I push down for air but when I pull back for paint I pull just enough until paint starts to come out then pull back no further, the less you pull back the lower the paint to air ratio, this takes a lot of practice.

If I was you I'de just keep practising, if your pressure is low as you say then it can only be as I said, your not doing anything wrong, your just haven't got used to it yet, you will eventually get used to what your brush can do and react accordingly when little things like this happen, it has happened to us all, If I had to post my firs line of dots and daggers, I'de be banned from the forum, lol
 
In spiders is all about pressure , paint density , distance to the surface , angle of spraying , surface type , speed of hand and trigger control.
You must find how to work in any particular case , depending on this variables factors , wich one you can adjust to make all work well togheter

Over what are you painting ? are you too close to the surface ?
 
In spiders is all about pressure , paint density , distance to the surface , angle of spraying , surface type , speed of hand and trigger control.
You must find how to work in any particular case , depending on this variables factors , wich one you can adjust to make all work well togheter

Over what are you painting ? are you too close to the surface ?
learning in normal a3 paper and I was trying to do close up and that's where my issue started ,what im asking thought is does transparent base dilute the paint more ?????
 
learning in normal a3 paper and I was trying to do close up and that's where my issue started ,what im asking thought is does transparent base dilute the paint more ?????
yes and it affects the behaviour so you have to accommodate it.
 
learning in normal a3 paper and I was trying to do close up and that's where my issue started ,what im asking thought is does transparent base dilute the paint more ?????
You should still use a bit of reducer with the trans, it is still paint just with no colour in it, i have a bottle of com-art trans and would use 10drops trans and one drop colour but i would also reduce maybe 5:1 as well.
Im not saying that is the correct way to do it just how i do it but i def think you should reduce a bit. But hey i could be wrong, wouldnt be the first time
 
If your using transparent paint try that without anything else mixed with it and if it sprays well use it that way,If not add a drop of trans base and try that and so on till you get what you need to spray right
 
Transparent base gives more 'body' for lack of a better word to paint when it has been over reduced, without changing the colour value of the reduction. I love Wicked paints for their versatility, and the fact that I find their transparents very vibrant especially when cleared, and use them all the time on a variety of surfaces from automotive, to fabric. But it is fair to say different colours perform differently, and require different mixing. For instance the yellow I have is very thin right out of the bottle, and I rarely need to reduce it, even at low pressure, the moss green by comparison seems much thicker and benefits from filtering, and I usually tweak the pressure a bit. So it is possibly just a case of getting to know your paint (which I think is true with any brand) , it soon becomes second nature and not something you have to think about, and maybe adjusting your technique distance/angles etc.

People prefer different brands for different reasons, and if you are only intending to paint on paper/board then maybe you don't need the versatility of Wicked, but may find E'tac or Com-art more suitable. However, IMO Wicked can perform just as well, I have an Iwata eclipse hp-cs, which is .35 nozzle, so not the smallest, and can get what I consider very fine detail, so don't worry that you have wasted your money, just play around until you get to know it, and maybe try something else next time if you feel you need something they may be more specifically suited to what you intend to paint.
 
Wicked is the only paint I use. On surfaces such as paper, you can over reduce like crazy without losing body and the only thing that will happen in most cases is it'll be very transparent. With that said, if you're painting on a surface of the paper that is already saturated, an over reduced paint will spider. You said you didn't use any reducer, just some trans base with color mixed 1:1. Wicked color is made to reduce - even if you have a large needle setup. IMO it sounds like the color and the trans base are not mixed and the inconsistencies are making it build up pressure, spit and spider on you. If you're looking for transparency and layering, you should reduce anyways instead of use a trans base.
I personally only use a trans base for spraying a stencil area before going in with color to prevent color from crawling under the tape and when I mix over 10:1 to keep the base and prevent the pigments from shifting in the reducer.
I recommend using Wicked High Performance Reducer for really fine detail over water and the standard Wicked Reducer. "W500" is the product number. It will help the paint atomize better, prevent skipping, spitting and spidering while helping to prevent tip dry. The finer the atomization in fine detail work, the faster it will dry on the surface. When you use the W500 it will be like night and day with your detail work. I hope this helps you visualize exactly what's going on! - Also, if you're needle is bent slightly, it angles the airflow and if the angle is right, it will blow your paint on the surface and make it spider when you're that close to it. - AEON
 
Thanks for the write up Aeon, The subject of w100 and w500 has been covered a lot on here as well as home made reduce using water alcohol and glycerin.
Most call spider web -Skating due to that is what the paint is doing skating across the surface , It mean either the tooth on the surface being painted is not prepped 100% the way it should be or you either have too high of air pressure , too much reduction or last possibility your moving the airbrush to slow allowing to much paint to build in that one area .
But it is always nice to have a reminder of things that can cause skating for some of the new folks just starting out.
 
I rarely spray under 30 PSI (I am a silly siphon user after all LOL), no matter what the reduction is or the surface and rarely suffer spidering..Speed is the main factor as mentioned, its likely your probably just going to slow on your stroke need or pausing to long and allowing the paint to pool, try speeding the stroke up and likely most of your issue will disappear no matter what angle, distance, surface or reduction you use..If you do have a problem speeding up your stroke it can be combated by adding more distance and using a shield or template to guide its location and reduce overspray..Good luck
 
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