Spray guns

I didn't know it's $5 in lacquer thinner for cleaning the gun. This can add up if you are doing piece by piece. -.-
Well acetone anyhow. About $5 a quart. Which is about what it takes to do a good triple rinse on a full size gun.

Multiple reasons it made sense though.
Say, spaying tooling gel coat into a mold, the accuspray probably saved an hour worth of sanding over using a Chinese primer gun.
Yet it wasn't worth using a good gun bc every so often someone (myself included) was gonna spray for three minutes too long and have the gel kick off in the gun and ruin it.
 
I'm just saying there are situations where a throwaway gun like what the accuspray basically is, that sprays better than Chinese is a very good thing.
Ceramic coatings, gel coat, primer in some production environments...etc
 
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Oh, and though gunman gave it a negative. He also says it probably should have been in his top 8 primer guns.
I guess the negative is overall
he wonted to expand to top 9 :D. It's a nice idea to be able to just throw away head and stuff. I don't have option to get 10 bucks guns here, around 30 euros is minimum. I would need to order bunch of them from uk, if I wonted to save money on long run. Just thinking about options...
 
Probably still not worth while fir you.

The gun cost me $100 not $200
One set of liners and head costed me about $6
But I spent about $300 at a time on them.

You're probably looking at more like $25-30 a set in small amounts.
And my guess is cleaning solvent costs far less there than here.

I'd get one of the better Chinese guns like sprayit and just clean the thing til it's garbage.
 
RP's I've seen only drop you down to the same consumption as some of the more efficient HVLPs like lph

In reality LPH 400 is LVLP. Look at the air consumption and compare with with HVLP full size guns from SATA and DeVilbiss (Tekna or GTI Pro HV-30 head) 400s is not that hungry for the air.

Now Iwata sells a kit of LPH 400 LVX with WB-1 extra head that makes the kit "all you need" for the basecoats and clears, reduced primers would also go. The kit is available on Russian and Ukrainian markets, search for it on yours. I'd buy that if I hadn't those I have.
 
In reality LPH 400 is LVLP. Look at the air consumption and compare with with HVLP full size guns from SATA and DeVilbiss (Tekna or GTI Pro HV-30 head) 400s is not that hungry for the air.

Now Iwata sells a kit of LPH 400 LVX with WB-1 extra head that makes the kit "all you need" for the basecoats and clears, reduced primers would also go. The kit is available on Russian and Ukrainian markets, search for it on yours. I'd buy that if I hadn't those I have.
Yeah, I just called the group more efficient HVLPs bc there's no real standard to define hvlp from lvlp.
Lvlp is just a term made up by manufacturers.

So while a gun that eats 13cfm may be called lvlp. Right next to it is a gun that takes 9 cfm and called hvlp.
 
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Yeah, I just called the group more efficient HVLPs bc there's no real standard to define hvlp from lvlp.
Lvlp is just a term made up by manufacturers.

So while a gun that eats 13cfm may be called lvlp. Right next to it is a gun that takes 9 cfm and called hvlp.

There's no, but the difference is obvious. No one can use real HVLP with home compressor, one must have 3 phase beast to run that gun.
I can run my 400s W and moreover LPH with powerful single phase compressor. LPH leans toward even HP low consumption, rather than real HVLP. Even Iwata's Supernova eats crazy amount of the air.

Yeap, LVLP, LVMP, HVLP, HP etc.
Key things are in the head working pressure and the air consumption. These things we can use to understand what kind of the droplets we'll have on the surface (atomizing the paint flow). What manufacturers write on the tool is not that important, important is what we need.
 
Real hvlp... Is a turbine unit
75+cfm @ 8psi inlet pressure 80-90 percent transfer efficiency :)
lol

No, actually hvlp is legally defined.
Must have a Max of 10psi in the aircap when inlet pressure is in the proper range, and must acheive at least 65 percent transfer efficiency.

Rp (or "compliant" technically if it isnt sata) goes over 10 psi in the cap but still makes at least 65 percent transfer efficiency.

Conventional is everything that doesn't comply with the EU
.....whatever the number of the law is.

Every other term is just made up.
 
No, actually hvlp is legally defined.

Any data on the air consumption?

Conventional is everything that doesn't comply with the EU
.....whatever the number of the law is.

Personally, I see no reason to use HVLP, my climate doesn't need it, my needs don't need it, my compressor doesn't need it:) EC needs that, and let them use it. Luckily, I can buy HP as we're not in the EU.
 
There's no, but the difference is obvious. No one can use real HVLP with home compressor, one must have 3 phase beast to run that gun.
I can run my 400s W and moreover LPH with powerful single phase compressor. LPH leans toward even HP low consumption, rather than real HVLP. Even Iwata's Supernova eats crazy amount of the air.

Yeap, LVLP, LVMP, HVLP, HP etc.
Key things are in the head working pressure and the air consumption. These things we can use to understand what kind of the droplets we'll have on the surface (atomizing the paint flow). What manufacturers write on the tool is not that important, important is what we need.
yeah just reading the specs will tell you a lot. Aside from whatever they call it.
With a little experience you can pretty much tell what gun you're gonna like for what purposes.
 
Idk, government, theyre always logical right. lol

They're always smart, no doubts!;)


Oh, btw you can still buy conventional guns here. Just can't use them in a pro body shop. Not that you would want to with the price of paint. I'd rather not put 70 percent of the paint everywhere except what I'm painting.

My essential gun for alkyd enamel though....
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powermate-Commercial-Spray-Gun-010-0014SP/202590338

Yes, you can. Moreover, DeVilbiss is still available.

I use similar for alkyd primer. If you play with the distance, reducer, pressure, the transfer becomes better. It works great for steel profile, where you need to work with rounded pattern.

Great idea to use that small piece of the hose on the cup!:thumbsup: Need to think over it;)
 
So I was watching this video:

and one guy wrote a comment:
I had a friend that painted drop dead one day from liver failure because he would wash his hands at the end of every day in thinner. The doctor said that the thinner goes straight through the hands and into the other organs. I like your videos Bro so please cover yourself

***********

So my question would be, this can be true?

But like always when I am reading comments, i get bunch of questions...

So other guy wrote:
yes I do run gun filters.I clean it after the job so that will be the flash off time before baking :)

*************

So I went to uncle google to check what are those:
https://www.banggood.com/50pcs-60-M...udv5VH4disbw0IxoCMQIQAvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=UK

Why should somebody use this? And what the hell is baking? lol

I know S10n, this is a little off topic, but maybe some of the info is usefull to you as well. :p
 
So I was watching this video:

and one guy wrote a comment:
I had a friend that painted drop dead one day from liver failure because he would wash his hands at the end of every day in thinner. The doctor said that the thinner goes straight through the hands and into the other organs. I like your videos Bro so please cover yourself

***********

So my question would be, this can be true?

Nope.
Maybe if he was bathing in methanol.
And liver failure from years of a chemical doesn't just happen all of a sudden either.
Think about alcoholics.
 
Gun filters plug into the paint hole inside the cup and filter as used.

I don't use em. I usually even get rid of the one that comes in the gun.
I use filter funnels to fill through.

But why would you, same reason we always filter paint.

Plus, some can seed in the cup the gun filter means if it it seeds or clumps after straining it won't matter
 
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