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Straight to business without saying hello....tut tut tut...!

Discussion in 'Introductions!' started by Paul Buckley, Jun 19, 2018.


  1. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA QuickDraw and very happy #nobrushleftbehind Staff Member Mod

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    OK so it is a reduction issue. Cleaning fluids are for cleaning... they break the paint down. They ARE NOT reducers.

    First place to go for any questions that sound like "what reducer should I use for...[insert product name here]" is the manufacturer. They will tell you what to use. If you choose not to use their product then it is at your risk. Some products don't combine together well either and can create nasties that are intended by the manufacturer. SO my question back is... what does the manufacturer recommend...?
  2. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Smart Jet Pro: Tankless ; Max pressure is 45psi but has a working pressur of 10-35 psi , 18 litres a min air flow. OK for art work, not good for T-shirt / textile painting.

    The HP brushes you have are the original series, the new series are a 'plus series' the needle / nozzle between the plus and non plus series are NOT interchangeable, parts for the original series are not as easy to get as the Plus. ( I actually had a supplier send original series nozzle and needle instead of the Plus series, Iwata had actually labeled them wrong, so that may have been the case with your 'spares' as well )

    The HP-TR1 is a .3 from factory, Spray Pattern: Hairline to 3/4 in. (20-mm) Round

    As for your paint supplies,
    Keep the medea airbrush cleaner and the aerosol cleaner but I doubt you'll get much use out of the rest of the bottles unless you have kids and you let them loose with the body paint outside in the summer lol

    No, they are just cleaners, to clean out the airbrush after you've finished painting.


    See if you can locate some Com-art paint nearby. get just a couple of bottles to have a play with. It reduces with water and you'll soon find out if this is something you want to continue with, in which case you'll need more gear . . . and we are more than happy for you to check in here first to make sure you dont throw money at useless stuff lol
  3. Paul Buckley

    Paul Buckley Young Tutorling

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    Why can the brass looking bit inserted in the front be removed..?


    I’ve mangled it with pliers trying to remove it..

    To me it looks like it’s been sweated in and has no way of being removed..

    Reading above it seems that it’s an older model and hard to get bits for..I’ll get it out of the bin if it can be a worthwhile fix
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
  4. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Get it out of the bin and take a pic of the writing on the side, it will tell us exactly what it is, take a pic of what you’ve mangled too
  5. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    I guess some ABs do have soldered heads on them... if you mangled it, then yeah it's probably bin fodder at this point. Still would be fun to see if it could be repaired! But I'm crazy like that lol
  6. Paul Buckley

    Paul Buckley Young Tutorling

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    C2658342-A52B-4336-A20E-1CAF8F9DCB1A.jpeg B5BA9BBC-4EE1-4497-B73F-D60520E23148.jpeg Here it is... my hands are full of bbq sauce now but it’s worth a go
  7. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Needle-chuck Ninja

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    wow that thing is hosed
  8. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    If you’ve pulled everything else out of it (needle, air caps etc) then give this back to the BBQ sauce gods! That bit isn’t normally removed by the end user, the ‘nozzle’ is the tiny tiny little bit at the tip. (3) in the diagram below.

    @DaveG May be able to advise if it’s worth keeping and drilling out


    10EDD8DF-976C-4C72-BDAA-51A7E87C0CA0.jpeg
    doc1 and Paul Buckley like this.
  9. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    that there brush is... ummmm.... history. It loos like the nozzle cap threads have been broken off the brush body, and that nozzle tube, well, it is simply toasted.
    JackEb likes this.
  10. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    oooouch, it is actually painful to look at...
  11. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    This is what the front end of that HP-A is supposed to look like -
    heads1.jpg
    doc1 likes this.
  12. Paul Buckley

    Paul Buckley Young Tutorling

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    Yes thought so...:(

    The cone bit where the needle pokes through was the bit that sheared off when I cross threaded the new one in to the gold bit.
    I tried removing the thread which broken off and I must have damaged the end.
    I thought the brass gold bit may have been replaceable but soon figured that it wasn’t as the darn thing wouldn’t even budge..

    Ah well let’s bury the hatchet RIP hp-A
  13. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    *plays taps*
  14. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Needle-chuck Ninja

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    Short of a factory defect, like a cup falling off.. that is the most destroyed airbrush I have ever seen.
    Paul Buckley likes this.
  15. fingers99

    fingers99 Double Actioner

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    Goosed. Olympos HP is basically the same airbrush. They tend to pop up on eBay for less than Iwata, so don't bin it. You never know when you'll need an airvalve or a trigger, even the odd spring.
  16. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Code Dragon Slayer Admin

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    Welcome to the forum :)
  17. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Welcome to the forum Paul. You did a cracking job on that HP-a, well FUBAR'd. Put it down to experience and keep it for parts. Your compressor will do you well for general modelling and small art projects. I have one and have used it for over 10 years before I upgraded to a larger one a couple of years ago. We always try to guide folks the best way and give the best advice we can. Jackie said get some comart paints, they're cheap and work well. You will see if you want to carry on after that. If you do we will be with you all the way on your journey.
    Good luck.

    Lee

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