Stripped handle repair?

[Pepa Saavedra]

My contribution: do you know this kind of termoformable plastic ?

I think it might be useful for what you want to do. I bought it for the same purpose as you, although I haven’t used it yet.

You can buy in Amazon:
Polydoh plastic with color pearls
Thermoworx

There are more brands of this kind of plastic, and also without brand.
I hope it helps.

 

[Pepa Saavedra]

My contribution: do you know this kind of termoformable plastic ?

I think it might be useful for what you want to do. I bought it for the same purpose as you, although I haven’t used it yet.

You can buy in Amazon:
Polydoh plastic with color pearls
Thermoworx

There are more brands of this kind of plastic, and also without brand.
I hope it helps.

Clic on "termoformable plastic", it's a link to youtube. Also "polydoh plastic" and "Termoworkx" are links to Amazon.

 

[2Diverse]

Thank you Pepa. The termoformable looks like it could be used to make a handle. The links you provided to Amazon listings do not work for me. I was able to find the PolyDoh but the Termoworkx only shows thermometers for grilling etc on Amazon.

I will keep this in mind. I am going to do the green handle as I've done the others as I know it won't permanently harm the handle. I have one other handle I can work with and I can redo the first black one I did.

 

[DaveG]

Thank you Pepa. The termoformable looks like it could be used to make a handle. The links you provided to Amazon listings do not work for me. I was able to find the PolyDoh but the Termoworkx only shows thermometers for grilling etc on Amazon.

I will keep this in mind. I am going to do the green handle as I've done the others as I know it won't permanently harm the handle. I have one other handle I can work with and I can redo the first black one I did.

on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Thermoworx-B...1687819682&sprefix=thermoworx,aps,3119&sr=8-8

they also have one in white.

 

[2Diverse]

Thank you for the link Dave. It seems to be about the same product as the others. It's curious stuff that will require a closer look.

 

[Kingpin]

What about Sugru? Would that be an option?

 

[DaveG]

Looks like I will be joining this conversation as more than just an observer - Interesting story about where this early century Thayer Chandler Model A came from, but I will save that for another thread. Here is the "before" photo. The threads are broken off inside the body of the brush. I have some advertising media that indicate that this style handle was introduced in @1912, while the one piece body (rather than having a removable head base) probably keep it prior to the mid-1920's. I also found a catalog page from a 1914 publication. My goal will be to turn this one into a potential daily user.

 

[Pepa Saavedra]

¿Qué pasa con Sugru? ¿Sería esa una opción?

Sugru es más "gomoso" pero éste plástico termomoldeable es rígido y muy duro cuando se enfría. Y se puede teñir con color. También había pensado en el Sugru y lo descarté en favor de este otro plástico.
Pepa.

Sugru is more "rubbery" but this thermoformable plastic is rigid and very hard when cooled. And it can be dyed with color. I had also thought about Sugru and discarded it in favor of this other plastic.

 

[Kingpin]

Sugru es más "gomoso" pero éste plástico termomoldeable es rígido y muy duro cuando se enfría. Y se puede teñir con color. También había pensado en el Sugru y lo descarté en favor de este otro plástico.
Pepa.

Good point, well made

 

[DaveG]

Here's a brief look at how I did it -

I first cleaned up the broken end of the handle to make sure that it would fit flush with the brush body once the repair was done. Next I bored a shoulder inside the handle to accept a new piece. I measured the new ID of the handle for the insert, and made note of it. I then cut a piece of suitable material to diameter in order to cut the threads that would fit the brush body. I chose Delrin for this one because it matches quite well visually, and is pretty tough stuff. Once I had the threads cut to size, I machined a shoulder that would fit the pocket I machined into the ID of the handle. Once I was sure of fit, I bonded the insert into the handle using a toughened CA adhesive, and then parted it off. I'll make a different post about the entire brushes restoration.

 

[DaveG]

I know not everyone has access to a lathe, so tomorrow I will do another thread repair using JB Weld, a brush body, some mold release (vaseline and alcohol) and some tape - photographing each step.

 

[sky_drifter]

Well,. I'll be blessed if I've seen anything quite so spectacular.

 

[sky_drifter]

I know not everyone has access to a lathe, so tomorrow I will do another thread repair using JB Weld, a brush body, some mold release (vaseline and alcohol) and some tape - photographing each step.

I usually have to visit my bicycle frame builder to see such feats.

 

[DaveG]

Just a useless tidbit of information - we were watching television (American Pickers) - in a description of product they were talking about how "Bakelite" gave way to "Catalin" was described. Time period is correct, and product description makes it pretty likely it is what the green swirl Thayer Chandler handles are made out of.

 

[palk]

DaveG plan will work,,, the mold release is the trick And its over use in all areas not quantity but all over, epoxy will find it's way into unexpected areas you thought where not possible.
I used the same technique for making an adaptor in a screw cup socket using an epoxy putty.
In your case I would go for the more fluid type of epoxy and slow cure. A foam earplug up the handle and wrap tape around the outside joint of the handle and body. Stand it up vertical, handle end down. Then warm it up with a hair dryer or real tentative with a torch flame just the brass half. That should let air rise up and work out some bubbles by giving it a wiggle that should give you a better finish on the threads funny enough the cheaper types of epoxy shrink more whitch will work in your favor.

 

[palk]

ABS, polystyrene, PVC and acyrlic all react very poorly with any hydrocarbon in that order

. Your better bet would be nylon, acetal these are not immune to hydrocarbons but can put up with an irregular dunking and don't become tacky or sticky when immersed neither material likes being painted and machine well enough to hold a thread

 

[RK Ink and Focus]

Do you know what thread size/type the handles have on them? I would be tempted to find a male/male fitting and adapt it to either glue or thread into the handle.

 

[RK Ink and Focus]

this would be a very similar method to DaveG but you would not need your own lathe!

 

[palk]

I don't have one of those a/b that I could use my thread gauges on.
When they made those A/B the thread pitch and profile would be to a standard gauge but the thread diameter would be unique. Threads that diameter typically step up in 1/16 increments

 

[RK Ink and Focus]

Thread guage suggests 48tpi, vernier suggests 1/8”g major diameter which is approx 9.8mm. does this sound similar to the thayer and chandler handle @DaveG? Which as was pointed out is a fine thread on a lot larger diameter than standard.